New to 10mm and reloading

[danielboss21]

Just got my first 10 mm. What is a good factory ammo to plink with but also has decent brass for reloading?  Or should I start from scratch and buy all the components new? 


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[slayer61]

Daniel,
   Welcome & congratz on your new 10mm. For plinking, anything will work. For business & fun, you should roll your own. I am a fan of Longshot in my 180 grain projectiles & BE-86 in the lighter (155) ones.

Shoot safe & have fun!

[The_Shadow]

Daniel, Welcome to the forum and congrats to stepping into the 10mm world!  Sig, Remington 10mm ammo can be a good choice with good brass. 
New brass from Starline or Jagemann would be a good choice to start out with.
Used brass can require pass through sizing to make the cartridges feed more reliably...

Best regards and enjoy! 

[Kenk]

Welcome Daniel; there's much to be learned here, as many of the folks are extremely knowledgeable. As for plinking ammo, most will work fine providing your gun likes them and the price is right. When looking at brass choices, starline is tough to beat.
Be safe!


Ken

[danielboss21]

Looks like u can get bulk Magtech and LAX for 37 cents a round. No way u can reload for that cheap, correct?  Just for learning the gun and practice? I'll buy factory self defense loads for carry.


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[tommac919]

Actually yes, last time I fiq out the cost it was about .15- .16 cents per  reloading

[Taterhead]

Actually yes, last time I fiq out the cost it was about .15- .16 cents per  reloading

True. Even far less than that if you cast your own!

The major domestic ammo companies all have good reloadable brass. Rem UMC is unique in that they have nickel coated cases for regular range ammo. I have Rem, Win, and Fed cases that have more than 20 reloads. I have purchased zero range ammo in more than 10 years, so that brass goes back a ways.

[tommac919]

Just look for the list of bad brass, like PPU

[danielboss21]

Thanks


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[danielboss21]

Have u reloaded the Magtech brass?


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[tommac919]

No, but someone here may still have the list of good vs bad brass

Like mentioned PPU, it's hard brass and doesn't have good retention ( taper crimp ) of bullet as it's not malleable ( springs back to larger size )

[Taterhead]

Have u reloaded the Magtech brass?


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I found a few dozen rang pickups. I happen to think that Magtech brass in general is pretty decent. One peculiarity with the CBC (Magtech)  headstamps is that the primer pockets are staked. So I swaged tbose primer pockets before loading.

[danielboss21]

Interesting. How do u "swag" them?


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[The_Shadow]

Daniel there are several methods of removing the staking,  First is primer removal, hopefully they can be pushed out completely.
Then you can use a large primer pocked swage (usually the fastest way) or pocket cutter to clean up the staking.  Sometimes a tapered cutter can do the job!

[sqlbullet]

What method you choose for removing the crimp depends on a bunch of factors.  The cheap options are not usually fast.

Methods I have used:

Ream (Deburring tool) - I used a basic case chamfer/deburring tool.  Couple of twists of the pointy side in the primer pocket usually does the trick. 

    Pro:  cheap and effective, especially since most of us already have the tool. 
    Con:  Removes metal*, slow, not suitable for a large amount of brass.

Ream (Reaming tool) - A couple of years back I found a purpose build primer pocket crimp reamer from one of the big boys (RCBS, Lyman, Hornady).  The tool is designed to be attached to a case prep center and has a threaded shaft on the bottom.  I just chucked it in a drill.  The advantage of this over a deburring tool is this has a ledge that stops the reaming once the pocket opening is correctly sized. 

    Pro: Effective, fast, easily powered, and automatically stops once the correct material is removed
    Con: I can't find it again for sale

RCBS Primer Pocket Swage - This is a press mounted die set.  It has a couple of components.  The swage itself locks into the ram and has a button on it that will swage the pocket.  There is a collar that goes around the ram and button so at the bottom of the press stroke the case if forced back off the swage.  And there is a die that does in the press that supports the case head from the inside so you aren't stressing and/or collapsing the case body.

    Pro: 
    Con:  more expensive and slower than the reamers.  The swage has to be well lubed, and you still bang on the ram often to eject a case

Dillon Super 1050 Reloading press - So, a couple of years ago I got the idea that I was going to retire from my day job and make money processing once fired military brass.  I won an action for over a thousand lbs of 7.62X51/308 brass.  Since I knew many of my potential customers might not like reaming, which is what I personally did, I bought the RCBS swage.  about 1-2K rounds in I threw in the towel of processing the brass single stage and ordered a Dillon Super 1050 set up for 308.  The machine has an on-press primer pocket swage and was a revelation.  It is smooth and fast, and completely integrated with progressive action for de-cap, size, swage, and trim.  The first couple thousand rounds took me a week of after work nights.  First night running the Dillon I processed 4K round and all I had to show for it was a sore but from sitting on the stool.

   Pro:  Work, does it inline and pre-prime step, would allow in 10mm mixed crimped and uncrimped primer pockets, progressive with other steps
   Cons:  $$$$, and only a 1 year warranty on the Super 1050.

If I were to call out a preferred solution short of the 1050, I would just use my deburring tool in a drill and be very ginger.  It doesn't take much, just a kiss.


*Removing metal from the primer pocket is considered a capital offense by some reloaders. Gospel of sqlbullet is don't over-do it and you are fine.  After all, the actual primer pocket crimp doesn't contribute structurally to the head pre or post swage.  But, if you chuck that deburring tool up to a drill and really go nuts, you can badly compromise the primer pocket walls and greatly increase the risk of a blown primer.