Recoil spring

[Ruger4570]

Picked  up a wolf spring cal pack. Has 24, 22 20, 18 16 lbs spri gs.  I understand about the bigger lb to help with recoil ,frame stress, so i am going to install the 22 lb spring.what about return to battary ? The bigger spring will send thr slide home faster.or does that matter. I have a kimber custom 2 tle 1911

[sqlbullet]

A very valid and relevant question.

I have run springs from 18.5 to 24 lbs in my 1911's, and have settled on 18.5-22 lb recoil spring with a 25 lb mainspring and a flat bottom firing pin stop.

There are two schools of thought on this subject.

Bill Wilson favors tuning the spring to the load and suggests the heaviest spring that will allow the gun to consistently lock open on an empty magazine.  For 10mm, that would be a very heavy spring indeed, with the chart Mr. Wilson created showing a 24lb spring for a "full charge load"

https://www.m1911.org//technic1.htm

John Travis, AKA 1911Tuner, favors the lighter springs.  In fact, he suggests the opposite side of the test using the lightest spring that will reliably feed a round and return to battery.  For a "service" gun this would be 16 lbs in most cases.  A Commander or officers would require a stronger spring, not so much to mitigate slide velocity in rearward travel, but to make up for the missing momentum when the slide returns to battery.

https://rangehot.com/1911-spring-information/
https://rangehot.com/full-length-guide-rod-1911-2/
https://www.m1911.org//technic26.htm

I see nothing wrong with your plan to run a 22 lb spring.  I would suggest you keep an eye on the barrel link pin and the slide stop pin holes in the frame for any unusual wear, and if noted, reduce accordingly.  But in reality, a modern gun with good metallurgy will have no issues.

[TODDXUSMC]

I am with SQ on this one as well as Mr Travis. I have read his articles on Rangehot and they make alot of sense. Just my opinion; from dissecting his articles while examining my weapon, logic dictates to me anyway, that you can possibly do more damage to your frame with to much forward slide speed. As his articles explain, there's a whole lot of frame steel against a whole lot of recoil lug to absorb and dissipate energy to the rear, with the forward speed you really have nothing except the linkpin and slide release pin to stop the forward movement of the slide. With this second scenario at best you shear a link pin, at worst you crack your frame at the slide stop pin hole. They may have a video link, but while talking to Hunter Lee, he at one time sent a link to a video where they fired a 1911 (think a whole mag) without the recoil spring; end result was no discernible damages to any of the parts.
After studying this I chose to change the #23 in my Kimber Custom Target 2 Stainless, like SQ I went to a more moderate spring of 20lb and that's what I am using now without issues, I may even back down to the 18.5 lb that Kimber ships in the 1911 10mms from them. Probably the best way to mitigate rear slide speed is with the flat bottom firing pin stop. Im not too keen myself on going up on mainspring tension as that can increase trigger pull and the Kimbers have wonderful 70series triggers in them. While they do have a firing pin block its of the original Swartz type, actuated by the grip safety.
I hope whatever you choose it will work out well for you and to your expectations.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ruger4570]

Thanks not sure what is the correct thing to do  might leave the 22 lb in for now

[sep]

Why not give Kimber a call and ask them what they recommend? Your pistol should function fine within a window of spring weights. 

[sqlbullet]

Whatever else you do, get a flat bottom firing pin stop.  Single most important item, IMHO, in protecting your 10mm 1911 from slide velocity.

[Ruger4570]

I contacted  kimber, not really much to say beside stay with in saami specs. Was told not really  sure how the bigger spring will affect the gun when going forward.