Brand new RIA 10mm owner, wanting input on reloading goals I have.

[Mouse]

Just got me a brand new RIA in 10mm because it's impossible to find any used. Here she is in all her beauty, but I won't go into the looks right now since this is the reloading section. Been lurking here for years wanting a 10mm and now I finally got one after scraping up all my pennies and skipping lunch for a few months

Direct link if the above image doesn't load: https://i.imgur.com/XGKKogL.jpg?1

Anyway, on to the meat of the subject. I got this because I wanted to be able to load warm/hott loads in the 10mm and everyone seemed to agree that the RIA had enough chamber support to do that. My goal isn't to go nuclear or anything, I am wanting a 200gr. bullet at about 1200 FPS. Since double tap has a 200gr hard cast bullet doing 1300 out of a Glock that has less chamber support I figured that this would be an obtainable goal for the RIA without having to worry about damaging it. While at the same time satisfying my desire to blow up the evil water jugs that invade the gun range, and getting the steel spinner to make a full turn in a single mag.

From what I have read, it seems that most people have had best luck with long shot as a powder for pushing the heavy bullets fast while maintaining accuracy. So my plan is to use these components.
Brass: Sig 10mm(new un-fired)
Primer: CCI LP
Bullet: cast lead 200 gr RNFP
Powder: Long shot, starting at 7.5 grains and working up to velocity watching for pressure signs and degrading accuracy.

I am interested to know if anyone else has had luck with a similar load in the RIA, or powders used to achieve similar results.

My second question is if anyone who purchased an RIA recently had to switch out any springs to run the hotter loads. RIA has listed on their website that they suggest a 20Ib recoil with a 25Ib main(Hammerspring), which is what I understood you wanted to have if you were going to shoot the hotter stuff. So my plan was to just shoot the gun in it's stock configuration since it seems like they are shipping them with proper spring weights now.

My third and final question, pressure signs. I know how to watch primers for pressure signs after years of loading rifle rounds but I know that that can't be a reliable way to measure handgun pressures. From what I understand case head expansion is what I want to watch for, so the threshold of to much pressure will be between 0003" and .00035" of expansion with the goal being to keep it below 0003" and more in the 0002"-00025" range. Though these are numbers I am just guessing at based on the max pressures I am seeing for the 10mm at 33k PSI. If anyone has some good reading material on case head expansion measuring for pressure signs for individual cartridges or pressures I would be interested in seeing those, all I have right now that I have found is this from the Hodgens website:http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-education/tips-and-tricks/simple-trick-monitoring-pressure-your-rifle-reloads. This is for rifle loading though, and I couldn't find anything specific for handgun. Or am I just wasting my time worrying about that with the load goal that I have?

[sqlbullet]

Congrats on the RIA.  I think they are true hidden value in the 1911 world and especially in the 10mm 1911 world.  I have a Rock Ultra HC and it is a solid gun and well made gun.

Reaching 1200 fps with a 200 grain cast bullet should be well within the performance envelope of both you gun and the 10mm auto cartridge.  Four powders come immediately to mind for this goal:  AA#9, Longshot, 800X and Blue Dot.  Each has their own limitation and drawbacks as well.

AA#9 will provide great velocity and accuracy.  But charges will be compressed and will require a solid crimp and good brass or the charge will cause the bullet to creep back out a bit.  Also, it will take about 25-30% more powder by weight, making this the least economical choice.  But, due to the compressed charge, the risk of over-pressure is nil as you can't really get enough powder in a 10mm case and still seat a bullet to create a problem.

Longshot is very popular both with reloaders chasing velocity and with several of the boutique ammo makers for it's economy and velocity.  While many find the accuracy perfectly fine, I personally do find that at max loads it gives up just a bit to the other powders in terms of absolute accuracy.  Not enough to miss a milk jug or steel spinner, but if you are betting the bar tab on the smallest group at 25 years, I would be wary if selecting this powder.  In general I don't think this limitation is enough to discount the powder as your gun may love it.

800X for many years was the go-to powder for max velocity in 10mm.  It's biggest liability is the enormous flake size that makes it meter like corn flakes.  If you are willing to hand weigh charges (I am not) it will deliver it all.  But I hope there aren't lots of jugs and spinners that need taken out cause keeping a 10mm 1911 fed when hand weighing charges is a chore.

Blue Dot is my personal go-to powder.  In my area I can find it cheap, and it delivers near top velocity and usually some of the best accuracy from gun to gun.  The drawbacks are a less than clean burn, especially if pressures aren't near max, and it tends to lag 15-25 fps behind the other powders in max velocity.  But it meters great, delivers tight groups and is quite economical.  It is the powder I would choose for winning a smallest group contest.

I am gonna add in a runner up here with BE-86.  This newer powder lacks data on Alliant's website for 200 grain, but advertises a 190 grain JHP at 1182 fps.  The sure seems to be in the ball park.  Cleaner burning than Blue Dot, this may be a great powder for 200 grain bullets.  To date I have burned a fair bit of it in 9mm, 357 mag and 10mm/180 grain bullets but have not ventured up to 200 grain yet.

I think your planned course with longshot will yield fine results.  The Hodgdon data suggests a starting load of 7.0 grains and a max load of 8.2.  With a properly fit cast bullet I would expect to hit velocity/pressure a bit below 8.2 grains due to reduced gas blow-by compared to the Hornady FMJ they use.

I personally am in the camp of leave the gun like they made it unless you have a problem.  As every rule needs an exception, my one exception is that I always install a flat bottom firing pin stop in 1911 10mm's.  If I owned any in other calibers they would get them too.  The EGW Series 70 for 9/38/40 should fit your gun with minimal filing:  http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/o/s-firing-pin-stop-ser-70-38/9/40-blue/

If you are not familiar with the benefits fo the flat bottom firing pin stop, read more here:  https://rangehot.com/reduced-radius-firing-pin-stop-1911/

Short version is it changes the geometric relationship between the bottom of the slide and the hammer pivot.  A by product is making the gun notably harder to hand cycle with the hammer down, and in firing this results in reduced slide velocity and a different recoil impulse.

A chronograph would be the best tool for evaluating pressure.  As I am sure you know if you exceed either published max charge or velocity you are over book and may be flirting with danger. 

I have also used the case head expansion method for evaluating pressure.  If you wish to use this method I would suggest you invest in a decent outside micrometer accurate to .0001".  Calipers just aren't up to the job.  I got my first one on Amazon for about $25 and it still see's regular use.  However, I rarely use it for this purpose anymore as I find a chronograph and sticking within published parameters to result in very suitable ammo.

Welcome to the forum!

[Mouse]

But it meters great, delivers tight groups and is quite economical.

If Blue Dot meters well and is economical I may end up going this route if it's in the same ballpark as long shot, thanks for the input there.

I always install a flat bottom firing pin stop in 1911 10mm's.

I had read about these, but kept seeing people complain about them causing the hammer pin hole to elongate. Never any mention of the firearm brand that this happened to but it made me worry enough to second guess putting one in. If you have had these in your RIA 1911s though without any issue I may pick one up to try out. coule of questions I have about fitting though, do I need to radius the bottom at all, is it intended to be straight square, or just hit it enough to removed any burs? What do you use to fit it? just some standard files from the hardware store or do I need something more dedicated to gunsmith work?

I have a Rock Ultra HC

It's funny that you mention that, I actually ended up finding one of those for 550$ used that came with 3 mags and a box of ammo... I may have a problem explaining that one to my wife but I'm sure she'll love it once she shoots it.

[sqlbullet]

The flat bottom firing pin stop can be fit easily enough with about any file that has a flat side.  I just grab whatever file is sharp and handy.

Factory standard radius for most firing pin stops is about 7/32's (14/64).  Original Browning spec before the Army meddled was 5/64.  1911Tuner runs just under 1/16 (4/64) in the ones he has measured. (See linked article)

I used to just break the edge with a file, but have not on the last few I installed.  I just fit them to the slide and called it a day.

Fitting them to the slide involves removing just enough material to get them into the slide grooves and perhaps setting the top radius a bit.  Compare it to the one in your gun, noting if yours was already loose, and go from there.  Slow and steady with regular checks is key as you can't put metal back.

[Kenk]

Hi Mouse, and welcome to the forum. I have a Rock Ultra HC as well, and have been totally impressed in all areas. It is a solid weapon, has performed well in my reliability testing, and has been a straight shooter. I have shot a variety of hand loads through it, as well as many of Underwood's offerings without issue. Unless I just got an extra nice one, I think you will like yours as well. Lastly, it's kind of  beast for warm weather carry, unless you dress around it as I do.

Thanks

Ken

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[Mouse]

Hi Mouse, and welcome to the forum. I have a Rock Ultra HC as well, and have been totally impressed in all areas. It is a solid weapon, has performed well in my reliability testing, and has been a straight shooter. I have shot a variety of hand loads through it, as well as many of Underwood's offerings without issue. Unless I just got an extra nice one, I think you will like yours as well. Lastly, it's kind of  beast for warm weather carry, unless you dress around it as I do.

Thanks

Ken

Yeah I don't think I'll be able to carry the HC one for concealed carry, except maybe backpack. Speaking of which, what holster do you have in that picture?

[Kenk]

Hi,
I'm pretty certain it's a Desantis

Kenny

[sqlbullet]

I used to EDC a Para P-16-10mm and would carry my Rock HC as well.  My rig was a Crossbreed supertuck or alien gear IWB, at 4:00.

[Kenk]

I picked up the Alien Gear Cloak Slide OWB Holster holster recently for my Springfield XDM 4.5. Something like this may be a good option for your RIA
http://aliengearholsters.com/springfield-xdm-4-5-inch-barrel-cloak-slide-owb-holster-outside-the-waistband.html