Annealing

[FlyingDtnt1]

So, I'm on my third go around on my present batch of casings. Is it still worth the effort to anneal my brass at this point?

[The_Shadow]

If you are sizing and the bullets still hold tight you shouldn't have to anneal for 10mm.  Time and effort it really isn't worth it but it does work to a point.
However I have seen some cases that spring back open after the resizing which can leave the bullets loose and can be pushed deeper after loading.

http://10mm-firearms.com/factory-10mm-ammo-pull-downs/lax-180gr-fmj-plated-(ic-51714)-pull-down/msg31648/#msg31648

[sqlbullet]

I have never bothered annealing short straightwall cases.  They are relatively cheap. I average 11 reloads before they are lost or split.  That puts my average brass cost at 1.5¢ per shot if I start with starline brass.  I reload twice at full power and then relegate them to "practice" velocities of between 950-1200 fps with 180 grain.  The slower recipes are for my kids or new shooters.

[sep]

I have never bothered annealing short straightwall cases.  They are relatively cheap. I average 11 reloads before they are lost or split.  That puts my average brass cost at 1.5¢ per shot if I start with starline brass.  I reload twice at full power and then relegate them to "practice" velocities of between 950-1200 fps with 180 grain.  The slower recipes are for my kids or new shooters.

+1 I just load em til they won't properly hold the bullet or they split like sqlbullet does. I only use them for plinking loads which run around 900-1000 fps. There is kind of a built in safety factor in this approach too. If you do get a set back bullet, at least you are only firing a light load with increased pressure because of the set back bullet as opposed to a maximum load with increased pressure as a result of the set back bullet.

Put another way, if things go sideways, you only lose an eye as opposed to losing an eye, two fingers and a nipple!