New to reloading

[FlyingDtnt1]

   I am new to reloading and am having trouble finding load data to go with Berry's plated flat nose 180 gr. and AA no.9 powder. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

[sqlbullet]

I would start with 180 grain FMJ data, reduce 10% and work up.  Watch accuracy as it may decrease significantly as you move past starting loads.  Plated bullets can be finicky in ways that cast and jacketed bullets are not.

For reference, I have a range report in my log from 6 years ago when I was testing #9 with 175 grain cast bullets.  I worked up to 14.7 grains  at a COAL of 1.245".  Case head diameters were in the expected range and there were no other signs of pressure.  Velocity was tested with 10 shot strings in my Glock 29, EAA Witness and Para P16/10mm at 1243, 1294 and 1331 respectively.  I had no feeding issues and no leading issues.  It should be noted that this data exceeds Accurate's published data for 175 grain lead bullets and 180 grain jacketed bullets.  It is a max load according to Lee Reloadings published data for 180 grain FMJ.

On that same range report I did test Berry's 180 TC with Unique.  6.7 grains loaded to 1.260".  The P16 did not like the longer bullet and I experienced several three point jams.  It ran fine in the other two guns.

Based on this if I were assembling loads for my guns using Berry's 180 and #9, I would load to a COAL of 1.250" +.000"-.005" and start with a charge of 12.0 grains and work up.  That charge should produce a muzzle velocity of about 1,000 fps in a 5" barrel.  I personally would use Lee's 14.7 grains and 1325 fps (5" barrel) as a max, whichever comes first.  But, I would not be at all surprised to see if accuracy drops off significantly around 13.0 grains and above.

[Graybeard]

I load a lot of Berry's 180gr HP, but I don't use AA9. The Accurate powder website lists a range of 12.2 -13.5gr for a Hornady 180 XTP. Hornady lists the same load data for XTPs and FMJs of the same weight. Berry's will tell you to use data for cast lead, but their bullets can be pushed harder than that. I usually shoot for somewhere in the middle, between lead and jacketed data. At, or near their 1250fps speed limit, Berry's bullets work just fine.

So, if it were me, I'd start with a 12.5gr charge and work up .2gr at a time. The 12.2gr load is very anemic. My best guess would be that you'll end up settling on something in the 12.8-13.0 range, maybe a little higher, with a COAL of 1.250.

The 13.5gr XTP load is nowhere near max pressure for a 10mm. You should be fine if you work up slowly and check for signs of being overpressure. I would think your greater concern would be stripping the plating off before you get to an overpressure situation.

Perhaps someone that uses AA9 will chime in.

[The_Shadow]

Study through these pages and you should find good data that will work...yes the plating on the Berry's Bullet can be easily damaged so care with seating and crimping is also needed...

http://10mm-firearms.com/reloading-10mm-ammo/10mm-load-data-collection/

[FlyingDtnt1]

Hey, thanks for the replies. I'll post the results after I go the range.

[Trapper6L]

Since you are just starting out, I assume you already have the basics of reloading down but haven't acquired the usual library of loading data. I would suggest you get your hands on a Lee 2nd Edition manual. It's pretty much a compilation of all of the others. Unless your reloading tools are Lee, I wouldn't suggest using it to learn or to find a "how to" in it. It's going to have a major Lee slant to it. But for raw loading data, it's hard to beat. You can pretty much find most any loading data online too. Most of the bullet makers now have their data online, like Speer, Nosler, etc. At one time, Midway also had loading data for the Rainier bullets. The Lee manual now has it so most any plated bullet will be in the Lee manual. All of the powder makers have loading data online too- Hodgdon, Accurate, Western, Alliant, Ramshot, etc. And when you don't seem to be able to find the exact answer to your query, there's always this forum. Lots of reloading experience here with lots of folks willing to help. Welcome to the world of reloading.

[Kenk]

Trapper is right on the money. Work up slow being as anal as possible. Be safe and have fun!!!

[Taterhead]

Welcome to reloading for a fantastic cartridge.

Good advice so far in the previous posts. Accurate no. 9 is my favorite powder for 10mm, having loaded more than 10 different types. However, with plated, my preference is for a medium burner like WSF, Unique or No. 5. That being said, you can get good results with A9.

You've received some good advice above. I'll just add that Berry's plated 180s can be fussy. It took me some fiddling, but I've managed to get them to work fairly well, but never at max velocities. If you find that groups are pretty inconsistent, then there are a couple of things to look for.

Load a few dummy rounds, then pull them. Look for these problems:

Shaving copper: Needs more case mouth flair and/or need to start straighter into the case when seating.

Excessive crimp: The case mouth should be leaving a faint impression on the bullet -- at most -- or none at all. Beyond that is excessive. Just need to remove the bell enough to kerplunk into the chamber.

Reduced diameter: The diameter of the bullet should be identical after seating as it was before seating. Berry's plated bullets have soft lead, and the act of squeezing them into a case can swage them to a smaller diameter. This is no different than what we find with cast bullets. Swaging down diameter is bad for groups. The remedy is to get an expander plug that adds more interior diameter of the neck. I use an RCBS expander die retrofitted with a "401 Cowboy" expander plug assembly. Marketed as the 38-40 WCF Cowboy expander.  It is a couple of thousands larger than the standard size expander plugs and my soft cast and plated bullets will not get swaged down when I use it. Just the right about of neck tension. Note that I'm not talking about case mouth flair. It is the shank of the expander that sets the interior diameter of the neck.

If that doesn't work, slow the velocities.

[The_Shadow]

Taterhead has offered some excellent advise and the only thing I can add is to seat bullets fully to the proper cartridge length without any crimp being applied.  So seater / taper crimp dies may need to be raised about and 1/8" to prevent the crimping area from squeezing the casing.  If the casing starts to close while the bullet is in motion you will cut, wrinkle or shave the plating or as in the case of a cast bullet shave bullet material on the edge of the case mouth.

I have my Seater/taper crimp die locking adjusted for a slight crimp just leaving a shine on the very edge of the case mouth.  However when seating bullets I place a 1/8" spacer under the locking ring to raise the die up preventing the crimp closure...  I actually have 2 of the 0.125" - 1/8" and use them for 40S&W. With 357Sig and 9x25 Dillon I can raise the 9mm expander die with one or two spacers for these.

These spacers have several uses and benefits to help not having to readjust the locking rings on the die for several cartridges.
Redding sells the spacers individually or as a kit; https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=Redding+Die+spacer&userItemsPerPage=48

Here is a picture of the 10mm casing with a 9mm casing sitting on two spacers, the two spacers are used for 9x25 Dillon and only one for 357Sig as mentioned above.

[gandog56]

My Lee Modern Reloading Second Edition has some copper plated recipes, but I am away from my home right now and can't see if it has any for that caliber and powder preference.

[Univibe]

I use Accurate Arms powders exclusively, for handgun.

Go on their website, and look at their most recent loading data.   I rely on AA's data for all my reloading.   

[FlyingDtnt1]

Range report Aug 4
Glock 20 with 6" Stormlake barrel
Berry's plated 180 gr. Flat nose
assorted brass once fired brass
accurate no.9
Fiocchi large pistol primers

12.5 Gr.: 1320, 1317, 1322, FPS . Case expansion .424, .425
12.7 Gr.: 1363,1347,1554 FPS.Case expansion .426

Once I saw 1554 FPS I stopped shooting my hand loads and shot some factory Fiocchi FMJ 180 Gr. To check my Chrony and I got 1239 FPS.
Needless to say I am going to pull the bullets out of my 12.7,12.9,13.1,13.3 and 13.5 loads and scale back and start with 10.5 and work my way up to 12.


Here is a photo of the 1554 FPS


[attachment deleted by admin]

[The_Shadow]

FlyingDtnt1, how close to the chronograph were you, sometimes being too close can have powder particulate out run the bullet and trip the timing circuits...  Usually you need 10 to 12 feet for pistol rounds.

[FlyingDtnt1]

Around 5-6 feet. 

[The_Shadow]

That close distance would likely explain the chrono reading of 1554 FPS.  Not trying to beat up on anyone just help everyone to understand things based on the info you and others experience and present.

I think you will find that your other cartridges will be within proper range with your powder charges.