New to reloading

The_Shadow · September 03 2018 08:14:59 PM MDT

There can be several reasons for light primer strikes, short casings with extra headspacing and cartridge movement with the strike.
Firing pin or striker channel having debris inside, this can be carbon fouling, dry oils or grease, plating from primer cups or from primer smear from previous loads.
Also as I mentioned above there may not be enough priming mixture between the anvil and the base of the primer cup. This can be from shrinkage, broken or crumbling priming pellets where the mixture has moved from its original placement. Although rare, it is possible for some mixtures to move during vibritory cleaning or packaging or shipping.

FlyingDtnt1 · September 04 2018 12:24:34 AM MDT

Quote from: Trapper6L on September 03 2018 06:55:18 PM MDT
Primer strikes look mighty light to me. Have you had any custom work done to that Glock, assuming you bought it new? I couldn't find the materials used in the Fiocchi cup to tell you if they are hard or soft. Not all primers are easily set off with Federal being the easiest due to their being the softest. You might also measure with a caliper the actual size of the primers, especially the height. If the cup is short, you're going to get light hits. Here's the SAAMI chart on primer sizing.

Funny you say that because I recently had my feed ramp polished on my 6" storm lake barrel in my G20 by a gunsmith who lubed the shit out of my gun, well past what the Glock recommendations are.

Trapper6L · September 04 2018 04:24:37 PM MDT

If he used grease on the firing pin part, I could see how it would slow down the forward movement and maybe even stop the firing pin early. Might give it a good cleaning and see where that gets you. You can use a gun scrubber or the green labeled brake cleaner for a spray. You have to use any of them outside due to fumes. The green brake cleaner is non-flammable which is why I use it.
Since you reload and after you clean it, if you have a safe place to do this, size 5 cases and prime the cases only- no powder, no bullet. Single load these in the gun and see if they all go off. You'll get a bang like a small firecracker and usually a little flame out of the barrel so make sure it's pointed in a safe direction. That should give you an indication that you either have a different issue or cleaning was the fix.
FWIW, if you are in a fairly dry climate, might consider using the WD-40 PTFE dry lube. It's basically a teflon spray and it works fabulous on guns. It doesn't attract dust or dirt. It takes the place of gun oil for a lube but not gun grease.
https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/

Kenk · September 05 2018 04:24:41 AM MDT

That's a great idea, I haven't seen the Specialist version before, Thanks!

FlyingDtnt1 · September 22 2018 06:56:05 PM MDT

So I got a Sellier and Bellot case with wee bit flattened primer, and ran in through my Dillion and ended up with the primer seated a little bit to high. My question is, is this cartridge still good? Or should I toss it?

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FlyingDtnt1 · September 22 2018 07:00:11 PM MDT

With the new primer

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Kenk · September 22 2018 08:14:21 PM MDT

Evening FlyingDtnt1,
I'm sure the more experienced folks can answer better, however for me, if it's not seated correctly, I won't shoot it. Some may seat it deeper, but a hot rd is a hot rd, I'm not going to mess with it / take any silly chances
Thanks

Ken

The_Shadow · September 22 2018 08:57:27 PM MDT

If it is Flush or slightly below flush it will be fine. Clean primer pockets help to seat fully and some pockets can be out of spec. Pocket uniformers can help things too.

Univibe · September 28 2018 11:45:39 PM MDT

Might be an incompatibility.

I can't use Hornady brass in .45 ACP. It's good brass, but the primer pockets are too tight for the Winchester primers I use. Very tight seating and I don't trust it. When I run across a Hornady I put it in the scrap can.

FlyingDtnt1 · October 06 2018 05:49:11 PM MDT

So last week I took out some zero jhp 180 grain loaded with 12.2 Grains of accurate number 9 and Winchester large pistol primers. Shot about 160 down range with no misfires/hangfires/duds. I had couple ftfs, the C.O.L on those that jammed where 1.264. Anyways it looks like I'll be sticking with Winchester'S from now on.

FlyingDtnt1 · December 02 2018 07:08:05 PM MST

Today at the range I was changing barrels in my G20 and I ran across this.
It looks to me like unburnt powder and I was wondering is this the result of of loose primer pockets? I have never seen my gun dirty like this before.

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The_Shadow · December 02 2018 07:39:00 PM MST

More than likely the powder being unburned results from bullets not held by case neck tension tight enough to fully ignite. However slower burning powders may require hotter primers to help ignite them fully. BTW there is always some powder that may not burn fully... ${$default_roll_eyes_smiley}$

FlyingDtnt1 · December 26 2018 11:30:03 AM MST

Insufficient neck tension?

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sqlbullet · December 26 2018 12:38:31 PM MST

Would need to know the load data to say for sure. This is the result of low pressure. That can be caused by low neck tension, but I see it more often in light loads.

Trapper6L · December 26 2018 02:24:54 PM MST

Yeah, I agree about the light load and too slow of powder. You have to stay near peak loading data when using some of the slow powders like AA9. It requires significantly more pressure for the slow powders to ignite than a medium or fast burning powder. If you want reduced velocities, use a faster powder. If you want reduced recoil use real fast powders like the ammo makers use. For plinker ammo, I generally stay with the medium powders like Unique or Blue Dot on the slow end of medium burning. For nuclear loads I usually pull out the Blue Dot or AA7, depending on bullet weight. For reduced recoil, try 231.