RIA GI 10mm

[sqlbullet]

This is what went in my Rock:

http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/o/s-firing-pin-stop-ser-70-38/9/40-blue/

[Kenk]

Thanks sqlbullet!

[Kenk]

Is that different to install?

[sqlbullet]

Not drop in.  It will require a bit of filing.  But very straightforward.

Also, way easier today.  Back in the day they had one.  It was a 45 Series 70 and if you had a 38 Super Series 80 you had to file all that as well.  The first ones I did 8-9 years back were series 80, but you still had to file it to clear the ejector on a 38/9/40 gun.  And to fit.

[Kenk]

Thanks man!

[ottoman]

Thanks sqlbullet for posting the link for me !
As stated pretty straight forward install... fit, file, fit, file some more.. a sharpie helps you to find the high spots when your getting close... color it with sharpie try to push it in and remove, file where marker rubbed off

[50BMG]

50BMG, is your full length guide rod aluminum??? if it is that could problematic, i would change to steel or stainless steel. i don't know if anyone has mentioned it yet, but if you want to slow down the recoil impulse you need to look into upping your mainspring (hammer spring) and going to a square/flat bottom firing pin stop, if you have little to no radius your slide less mechanical advantage. your recoil spring has more to do with returning your slide into battery than it has to do with slowing the recoil impulse. i read a write up a guy did running a heavy mainspring and flat bottomed firing pin stop and no recoil spring at all, just to prove that the recoil springs main job wasn't to slow the slide. My Delta Elite that I had a full custom rebuild on and cut down to commander length is running a 26lb. recoil spring and a 23lb. mainspring and a firing pin stop with very little radius. hope this helps

It was a steel rod. The "real" problem with my particular gun was the fit between the rod and the spring cup, and the way the spring was left un-retained inside the cup itself. I surmised that if there was a bit of a groove milled into the bottom of a RI cup which kept the open end of the recoil spring away from the rod and the hole in the front of the cup that the rod passes through during a recoil cycle, that would have fixed it. To their credit RIA DID offer to replace the whole recoil assembly on mine, but I'm a tinkerer and besides losing the FL rod, I think my setup actually supports the bull-barrel/bushing-less system better (admittedly to a very small degree but HEY! LoL...).

WoW! That less-radiused firing pin stop solution is REALLY interesting!!! Thanks for posting that link sqlbullet!
You know, after reading about how this simple return to the original JMB FP Stop design helps so much, I vaguely recalled reading about that larger radius modification for the cavalry guys in one of my 1911 books. Whoda thunk that this simple change could change the timing of the gun enough, but it do!
HUGE benefits, especially when dealing with the much hotter 10mm round...
Reduce the slide speed by keeping it from moving for a an RPH more time...

As a wise man once said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krD4hdGvGHM

[Buckeye63]

I owned a RIA 1911 GI in 45acp for years ... I really enjoyed that pistol... Really good pistol

[50BMG]

This is what went in my Rock:

http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/o/s-firing-pin-stop-ser-70-38/9/40-blue/

Not to hijack the thread, but do you think a compact/officers size 1911 (.45ACP) could realize similar recoil reducing benefits with this same type firing pin stop modification?

[sqlbullet]

Yep.  The lighter the slide, the more this is needed.

[Kenk]

The overall quality and finish of RIA's stuff is remarkable, and at their prices, gosh, it's hard to beat

[Mike D]

Yep.  The lighter the slide, the more this is needed.

Pardon my ignorance but how does the firing pin stop affect slide speed?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

[Kenk]

My question as well
Thanks

[50BMG]

My question as well
Thanks

Yep.  The lighter the slide, the more this is needed.

Pardon my ignorance but how does the firing pin stop affect slide speed?

Hi Mike/Kenk,

I'll give this one a whirl.
Essentially, the original shape/non-chamfered firing pin stop keeps the slide in battery/"locked forward" just a hair longer than the slide equipped with a FP stop which has a more chamfered profile.
This very slight delay allows the barrel to bleed off a little bit more pressure before the slide starts its' motion to the rear. Thus, slower slide speed.
The original shape/non-chamfered firing pin stop does this by allowing the main spring/hammer spring to work more effectively in keeping the slide locked in battery for the slightly longer period because the sharper edge where the stop meets the hammer face makes the initial force required to start the slide moving backward greater.

Get it?

I just received 5 different oversized FP stops from EGW to do this to both of my 10mm 1911's and to 3 of my .45ACP guns of different sizes. If it works as well as I am told, I'll be needing a few more oversized stops to do the rest of my 1911's...

[sqlbullet]

50BMG nailed it.  The firing pin stop controls where force is applied to the lever relative to the fulcrum.  Sharper corner, closer to the fulcrum, less force multiplication.

I am a reasonably strong guy.  Raised on a farm tossing around 80lb bails of hay and all that.  Worked on a bunch of cars.  Hand and upper body strength is not an issue for me.  Racking the slide on a 1911 with a flat bottom firing pin stop is a bit of a chore for me.