Does a primer along (in most cases) without a powder charge

[Kenk]

So if I were to pull all 102 of these, then continuing with all of the normal steps, is it very likely I will have any lose bullet issues once they have been crimped? Lastly (quite possibly a really dumb question) if I do run info lose bullets, is it possible to resize the brass once the decapping pin has been removed from my RCBS sizing die, and then continuing with all of the normal steps.
Thanks in advance

Ken

[Trapper6L]

Ken, you didn't say what powder you used but you might try shaking them between the thumb and the fore finger. If you can feel the powder in the case shaking around, you just eliminated it as a round with no powder. If you can't feel one or ten, then you only need to pull those. If you can't feel any of them , then you're back to square one and will have to pull all of them until you find the one without the powder.

It's been my experience that the bullet once removed allows the brass to go back to the sized dimensions. Most likely you won't have to resize them. If you are doing a crimp, the crimp will hold bullet in place. That's the function of the crimp.

[Kenk]

Thanks Trapper, I'm using 10.4gr's of Blue Dot, filling aprx  half the case. I may try using my game ears amplified hearing protection and see how that works

[The_Shadow]

At 10.4 grains of powder you would see that difference fairly easily with a loaded pistol cartridge unless you have different weight bullets in the mix. 

I would weigh each looking for the differences.

You could pull them down, all of them.  But my advice would be to remove the decapping pin, resize and use the expander die as normal, then reload powder and bullets.  When you get them crimped I would check for any bullet movement, in/out, or if it turns inside the casing.

Doing some pull-down documentations of some commercially reloaded/re-man that exhibited set back issues, it was found that the PPU cases where in fact not holding there resized dimensions.  As part of the process of investigating this by taking measurements and resizing not working to hold these bullets I actually did a quick and dirty annealing of these cases to remove the work hardening and soften them to hold the re-sized dimensions  http://10mm-firearms.com/factory-10mm-ammo-pull-downs/lax-180gr-fmj-plated-(ic-51714)-pull-down/msg31648/#msg31648

These were the worse case scenario, but it showed what was needed to correct the situation.

[Kenk]

Great info Shadow, Thanks man!

[CurtisM]

I have similar cases around, however always mark the primer area, writing in the headstamp, etc with either fluorescent green or orange finger nail polish.  I usually do not put a primer in the rounds that I use to setup my bullet seating die for initial OAL.  Be safe finding the missing case.

[Kenk]

Thanks Curtis, I marked mine yesterday, not sure why I didn't think about that in the first place

[The_Shadow]

When making "DUMMY" rounds you can use hot glue or a rubber eraser in place of a primer. 
Another suggestion is to glue the bullet in place to help secure it from movement if you are cycling them or running misfire drills.
You can seat the bullet and crimp it in a casing without the primer installed, then drip some super glue down the flash hole, let it cure.  Then fill the primer pocket with hot glue or with the rubber eraser to cap it off.

I liked using the CCI "aluminum" cases or the "Dummy" rounds as I could drill out the berdan primers for these projects.  The aluminum cases also hold permanent marker colors well.

[Kenk]

Great ideas, Thanks!

[Kenk]

After assembling a few new primed Starline cases with 180gr HAP bullets / no powder charge, I came up with aprx 255.54 grains. After weighing 98 of the 102 cartridges, knowing I had one without a charge, and knowing the correct weight should be aprx 267.66 grains, I came across one that weighed 256 gr's, I pulled it and presto, no powder : )

[The_Shadow]

See that wasn't as bad as you thought!     When you have that much difference to work with it does make things like this much easier with disconcert.   

Glad you found that one.  In the documentations of ammo sent to me, I of the rounds sent was way short on powder (only 0.6 grains) was actually loaded.  What are the chances that that was the one that was sent and not actually shot during his range secession! 

http://10mm-firearms.com/factory-ammo-pull-downs/357-magnum-factorycommercial-load-pulldown/msg9980/#msg9980

[Kenk]

Thanks for everyone's help on this!

[cwlongshot]

Old thread I know.

Somehow I had not seen it.

I have been loadin 220's looked for data but found little to none. Ran across a thread using long shot and staining 1050 FPS. I was sure more was safely attainable from good longer bbls.

I looked to BlueDot. Started at 6.5g. Went to 8.2 then 8.5. I did not find excessive pressures and I made the velocity I was happy with. 1250 in a 6". Almost 1100 from my G29!

Accuracy was sub 6" @ 50 me shooting off hand.

Blue dot has long been a. Favorite heavy cast bullet powder.

My bullets are powder coated. Zero fouling is found in factory Glock and aftermarket barrels.

CW

[DenStinett]

If you don't already have one, Kinetic Bullet Pullers are relativity inexpensive
And (if used right) they'll retain all your Components for reuse
Here's a Name Brand for under $20.00, shipped:
https://www.pawtygo.com/deals/lyman-magnum-inertia-bullet-puller-coupon?gclid=CjwKCAjwgbLzBRBsEiwAXVIygNlV2lWwuOuU0e9rpBq8k5PkHlz6JzicLz8MPsnlpgf8zMNvcua9CxoCbWQQAvD_BwE

[Kenk]

Thanks, looks very similar to my RCBS puller