Upgraded my SR1911 this week

[Hamopr]

Contrary to opinions on the Ruger sub-forum on the 1911 forum I decided to upgrade my SR1911 with a Wilson Bullet Proof flat bottom firing pin stop, Cylinder and Slide heavier main spring and smooth trigger.

Spent most of the afternoon Thursday fitting the firing pin stop, definitely not a "drop-in" project. After lots of Dremel work and flat file I got the little bugger to fit. Although called a flat bottom it has a tiny radius on the edge that engages the hammer. Sure changes the effort to rack the slide.

Today I installed the trigger which required more fitting, had to take about .015" off the height, using a flat file. The stock Ruger trigger had some vertical play, this one has none. I polished the trigger bow but did not bother with the frame. Reassembled the gun and safety checked it to make sure all the functions still worked. Installed the overtravel stop set screw and I'm ready for the range.

While I'm not a believer in making modifications to a working gun I felt that these mods were worthwhile based on reports from others who carry and shoot the 10mm SR1911. For me, I get the satisfaction of disassembling my 1911 and getting it back together with no parts left over and apparently in working condition.

I'll shoot some PPU to make sure it works OK, step up to some Sig V-Crown and then my reloads. Looking forward to range time early next week.

[The Earl o Sammich]

"...no parts left over...."

You did something wrong.  It is my understanding that JMB designed the original 1911 with a flat, squared off FP stop.  I used a piece of marble left over from the wife's kitchen counter tops as a flat surface and place some 200 then 600 girt emery on it and just gently ran it around in a figure eight pattern for mine.



(What happened to the old FPS?)

[Forrest]

I bevelled mine with 1200 and 2000 grit sand paper. A very small radius and polished the surfaces. Then again I'm rolling my own and it's ejecting 12 feet further than the .40 Longs from the brand names. Stuff off the shelf will not even cycle my Delta. I get a tiny slide bounce and a half cocked hammer. I'm bumping the hammer spring weight next week to 30# in an effort to make the ejection stay a little closer to home. Already running a 28# recoil spring.
Sounds like other than your FPS, you're still in .45 setup.

[Hamopr]

Whoops, made a name error. I changed the sear spring, not the main spring.

Well, there were left over parts - the original trigger, sear spring and FPS but no place left for them except the Ruger cardboard box.

Thickness of the FPS was fine, a nice snug fit in the slot and just a bit tighter than the stock Ruger FPS. It was much taller than the Ruger part so the Dremel and file made short work of that. The rear bottom edge was not a sharp 90 degree edge but Wilson had formed a very tiny radius, just enough to break the edge that contacts the trigger. Takes much more effort to rack the slide.

Forrest - this was a 10mm SR1911, not a 45 conversion.

[sqlbullet]

Forrest isn't suggesting you converted a 45 to 10mm.  He is saying that from the factory the SR1911-10mm has mostly the same springs as the 45 ACP.

Whoops, made a name error. I changed the sear spring, not the main spring.

Why did you change the sear spring?  And for a heavier one?  A heavier sear spring would be the wrong direction as it would just make the trigger pull heavier with no benefit.

I think you did mean the mainspring (aka hammer spring).

Personally, I think the ideal set-up is a flat bottom firing pin stop, a 25 lb main spring and a 22 lb recoil spring.  But, opinions....

[Hamopr]

I went to a lighter sear spring. Can't recall where I found that recommendation but love the new trigger pull. I'll gauge it with my Lyman next week and haul it to the indoor range with my new-to-me G29 gen 3 for some fun playtime

If I make any more spring changes, main would be next. I'd rather not change the recoil spring until I see a real need.

Front sight is the only thing on my Sr1911 radar at the moment.

[sqlbullet]

In a properly set up "series 70" 1911 the sear spring is a big part of pull weight above about 4 lbs.  Going lighter makes a big difference.

[Forrest]

You won't need to respring the gun until you start turning up the volume on the 10mm in reloads. The gun will not run factory ammo when sprung for the hotter reloads. Big time function problems. I carry a an 18.5 just in case the Delta has to "live off the shelves."