Advice on adjusting Lee dies for 10mm

[sparkyv]

Ive been using Lee dies for loading 40S&W, but now want to use them for 10mm Auto. Any advice and pitfalls?  I have conflicting info regarding how many turns to back out the dies from Lee Precision website vs. the instructions that came with the dies, but I can determine this by trial and error.  I understand that I must back out the flaring die and the bullet seater die, but these questions remain:

Q1. Do I need to back out the sizing die?
Q2. Do I need to back out the factory crimp die?

Thanks for your help in advance.

[Texashogman]

Ive been using Lee dies for loading 40S&W, but now want to use them for 10mm Auto. Any advice and pitfalls?  I have conflicting info regarding how many turns to back out the dies from Lee Precision website vs. the instructions that came with the dies, but I can determine this by trial and error.  I understand that I must back out the flaring die and the bullet seater die, but these questions remain:

Q1. Do I need to back out the sizing die?
Q2. Do I need to back out the factory crimp die?

Thanks for your help in advance.

In most cases the Sizing die should touch the shell holder when ram is up(so no need to adjust it)

Crimp die will need to be backed out.

, there is not a specific number of turns to back out....just re-adjust them like you are setting them up for the first time.


Some die sets come with a spacer ring to insert between the die stop ring and press, but I usually don't use them as case length can still vary

[sqlbullet]

As THM said, sizing die is the same.  Belling, you can probably leave the die body the same and just adjust the stem (probably).  Crimp you will need to adjust the base.

The reason is pretty clear once you think through the operations.  Sizing indexes from the relationship of the mouth of the die to the base of the cartridge.  So, it stays the same since the base of the cartridge remains the same.

The bell/ case mouth flare operation indexes off the relationship of the stem to the case mouth.  The die body is effectively a thread reducer for the press.  So, the die body will need to move only if you can't adjust the stem high enough before you run out of threads.  This is the same for seating, though in seating is is complicated by the fact that the seating die body has a crimp feature.

Crimping in a standard die indexes off the case mouth in relation to the die body, and so die body adjustment is needed.  The same is true in a factory crimp die, though for slightly different reasons and index.

Edit - If you reload much, it becomes pretty handy to just have two die sets.  Only $35 and you can lock them down for the respective caliber and not change them.

[The_Shadow]

Another option is if your dies are adjusted for 40S&W, placing a 1/8" spacer under the expander and seater crimp die will raise them to properly do the 10mm...
But understand that seating bullets to proper depth without any crimp applied in one step and then crimping without any bullet movement in another step makes for the best and most reliable feeding ammo.

They sell die adjustment rings for the purpose of raising the dies for 357 / 44  / and even no crimp...see the link provided.
Kit Contains:
No-Crimp or partial resizing spacer (.062)
44 Special/44 Magnum spacer (.125)  This 1/8" ring can be used with many cartridges, 40/10mm, 357Sig/9x25Dillon and other uses
38 Special/357 Magnum spacer (.135)

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/189290/redding-die-spacer-kit

Here is a picture showing the 10mm to 9mm relationship using two 1/8" spacers, why do I show this?  With the 9mm expander die set for 9mm, placing one spacer will let me do 357Sig, placing two will let me do 9x25Dillon case expansions with no adjustment to the expander plug...

[sparkyv]

Thanks, gents.  You have cleared up my remaining concerns.

[Trapper6L]

Do yerself a big favor, spend the bucks and buy another set of Lee carbide dies and dedicate one as 40SW and the other 10mm. You'll save yourself a bunch of headaches, I guarantee it.

[sparkyv]

Do yerself a big favor, spend the bucks and buy another set of Lee carbide dies and dedicate one as 40SW and the other 10mm. You'll save yourself a bunch of headaches, I guarantee it.

I plan to eventually Trapper, but just laid down a chunk of change for my SR1911, so I'll be reloading on the cheap for awhile! 

[Grendel]

IIRC the crimp die stays (has a carbide resizing insert as well), just back the adjustment screw out. Expander and bullet seating dies are the only ones that need to be backed out.

[Forrest]

Do yerself a big favor, spend the bucks and buy another set of Lee carbide dies and dedicate one as 40SW and the other 10mm. You'll save yourself a bunch of headaches, I guarantee it.

And then the internet was won...
I use Rcbs for my 10mm and let me tell you that when I load .40 again....if that ever happens...I will buy another set of dies...Lee dies. I do that with .38 Special and .357 also. You missed one important step....but Hornady locking rings for dies and throw away the crap that they came with. The little brass set screw on my .40 dies was driving me nuts. It always loosened on one die...the seater... brass and temp changes....no go.

[rognp]

Use the spacer to make the quick change between the two and to do fine tuning place "witness marks" on the press and the dies. Then with the Lee adj rings properly adjusted you can vary your adjustment by 0.000s as needed. Dont use the crimp in the seating die, its only an invitation to problems. Seat to depth then run the round thru the factory/taper crimp die. You may not have to adjust this and just run the case past the carbide ring since all tis should really do is reduce the case mouth flare and apply a slight taper crimp. Some care needs to be taken here to make sure that when using plated bullets that you dont overcrimp and damage the plating.
      The Lee lock rings are really an ingenious system if you learn to use it correctly. One benefit is the self centering of the die in the threads. This can be defeated with rigid lock rings.

[sparkyv]

Trapper, Shadow, Forrest, your advice just cost me another $55.  I like the spacers, but in the end, I "bit the bullet" and purchased another set of Lee dies and a turret.  After reading all the replies, I figured that it would be too much of a headache going back and forth, and not worth reloading on the cheap.  I'm quite sure that I'll be thanking you for a long time...but right now my back pocket will be sore for a while. 

[Forrest]

Reloading on the cheap...in the same sentence as 10mm... Get a Lee Loader Kit!
Mainly the reason to reload 10mm is  to shoot it more and make better quality and higher powered ammunition than these factory loaders dare to. So I personally evaluate and tailor my reloading experience based on time and effort expended on the parts I don't like.

I don't like separating brass and media, so I got a tumbler that does it for me. I'm otherwise engaged while it's making a racket and moving its dirt out of my ditch. Cool Hand Luke reference anyone?

I don't like tweaking the crimp and seat over and over again. I discovered that the Hornady locking rings are awesome and I have not looked back from them. I use them exclusively.

I don't like holding long bullets as they go into the seating dies. There is something to be said for the Hornady Custom seating dies. That skirt that moves up and down and helps collimate the bullet is useful for long bullets in a caliber because you can reduce the belling on the case and maintain a higher loading rate.

I don't like changing the primer systems over.  I have a Dillon 550 with two toolheads and I change calibers strategically. 10mm is always loaded between .45ACP/LC/Cowboy Special and 9mm/.40 Stupid and Wasteful. I try like Heaven to make sure that I am getting the most efficiency out of every changeover made to my press by "smearing" between large and small primer systems. Eventually I will acquire a second press only for small primer cases and another shell plate for 9mm/40 to speed up the process and eliminate unnecessary changes.

I'm sure this seems like a lot of whining and crying, but I have learned to appreciate the value of my time and minimize waste of it.

I started reloading .38 Special on a Lee Loader Kit and still load my .357 and .243 this way. I do this for sentimental value and to keep the skill sharp. My kits are forty years old and I am the second generation loading with them. How awesome is that?