G20 & G27 KaBoom's

[EdMc]

In looking at the photo Yondering posted....the left and right sides of the fwd lug have a generous chamfer. The leading edge and corners all have a slight radius that should give a smoother lock/unlock and less abuse to the stop. Or, perhaps, I'm full of it.....

[The_Shadow]

All I trying to convey is the Geometry of the after market barrel is different from the Glock Factory barrels, people are seenig the slides are out of the normal position when using a factory barrel...Does this present a problem of having the slide in a different position?  Is it a Timing issue?  Is it a Lockup issue?  Why is the Geometry so different?  Should I be concerned?

These are the questions to ask the manufactures...I think they are valid questions for the aftermarket barrel makers to address, explain and / or correct if there is a concern, problem or SAFETY Issue!

These are the things I was trying to express to RedBull seeing how he had so many barrels in question, this also had others looking at their barrel fit as well...We all can learn from this.

After reading on so many different web sites (mostly 10mm stuff) and studing every KaBoom that I can, yes some KB's with aftermarket barrels touted as being "Fully Supported" are reported, the questions remain;
Is this a condition barrel lockup?
Timing Issue?
Is this an Ammunition issue even with premium commercial ammo?
Just brass with a case head blown out? 

Scratching my head, to avoid any issues with my own guns...Why?  Because I am a Handloader!  My mission is to avoid and eliminate a mistake before it happens!  Yes, I'm ANAL when it comes to rolling my own!

[DM1906]

That is sort of what I would think, held slightly out of full battery and time could be off as well because it is not in the proper place to start with.

I wonder though, is it really out of battery at all?  This out-of-battery thing is a tad over my head even though I loosely get what it means, but my reasoning is that if the locking lugs of the barrel are fully seated in the locking block of the frame, and the barrel is fully seated in the frame at the same time, and assuming with all that that headspace is correct, then how is it out of battery in any way whatsoever?

I'm thinking of it kind of like the common saying that there's more than one way to skin a cat.  Just because slide position is changed, I'm not necessarily sure that either head space or battery position are.  In other words, does the SLB dimension that holds the slide back further than the stock G20 barrel have any bearing on what dimension of the SLB controls headspace or in/out of battery dimensions?  I'm thinking;  No.  Thoughts?

If a barrel doesn't go into full battery lockup, the case may be fully into the chamber, but the primer strikes will be off center, and it's a shorter stroke OUT of battery.  This affects timing, and can allow an ejection before the pressure begins to decrease (KB!).  If the barrel fits into the slide properly before assembled to the frame, but doesn't after assembled, something is causing an interference.  Most likely the cam lug to locking block tolerance.  Cam lug tolerances are often "adjusted" by aftermarket barrel mfg's to improve timing and cyclic rate for use with higher power/pressure loads.

The locking block is relatively inexpensive (less than $30) compared to the cost of a barrel.  If a refinement is considered, I suggest adjusting the locking block, NOT the barrel, until it can be confirmed.  Once the locking block is modified to accommodate a specific barrel, other barrels may not fit correctly (or they might, depending on how much adjustment is required).  If the channel only needs to be widened a little, it may not affect using other barrels, at all.  I would begin with some die on the block and barrel lugs to determine where they are contacted, and where they aren't.  A professionally fitted barrel would have this done before you get to fire your first round.

[REDLINE]

Thanks for your thoughts guys!

I'm sure we'll all gain further understanding as time and effort towards answers goes by.

[Yondering]

That is sort of what I would think, held slightly out of full battery and time could be off as well because it is not in the proper place to start with.

I wonder though, is it really out of battery at all?  This out-of-battery thing is a tad over my head even though I loosely get what it means, but my reasoning is that if the locking lugs of the barrel are fully seated in the locking block of the frame, and the barrel is fully seated in the frame at the same time, and assuming with all that that headspace is correct, then how is it out of battery in any way whatsoever?

You are correct, the barrel is not out of battery, if it's fully locked up in the slide but the front lug is too long, holding the slide back. That is just a problem with the front lug, and nothing to do with being out of battery. Timing may be affected though, depending how far the slide is held back.

No way would I modify the locking block for a barrel that's not cut correctly. Fix the part that's wrong - clearly the barrel(s) in this case. Just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's right. Not only that, but the locking block has nothing to do with holding the slide back in this case. It's the slide lock plate and the barrel lug.

[Intercooler]

My heads spinning. I better keep to the simple pistols