Does everyone use a case gauge?

[CurtisM]

I'm just getting geared up to reload 10mm's so some of what I'm talking below is based upon my experience reloading 9mm ammunition. Within the last 12 months I have reloaded over 10,000 rounds of 9mm and I will usually reject 1 - 2 finished rounds out of every couple of hundred.

I have always used a case gauge and visually inspect every round that I load to check it for any obvious issues.  I realize that gauging every round may not be 100% perfect, however it will catch rounds that during the reloading process that may get damaged or where I may have missed a defect during the pre-inspection.  Usually a round will fail gauging if there is a slight bulge, split that opened up when seating the new bullet, crimp not set correct, etc. and it won't fully seat easily in the case gauge.

So where I'm going with this is post? I purchased 500 pieces of once fire 10mm brass to start my venture out, in addition to some new factory ammo that I purchased.  I can tell that some of the "once" fire brass has been reloaded before due to multiple extractor marks.   I know that the 10mm brass can be abused severely with high power loads and my concern here is will my inspection process catch most all issues with any reloaded 10mm rounds?  I have read in a recent post where a certain brass head stamp can cause issues by not crimping well and allowing the bullet to be pushed deeper and I do not want to go down a path that can potentially damage my pistol or even myself.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not paranoid on reloading nor am I looking for a guarantee from anyone, however I do want to be as safe as humanly possible.

[sqlbullet]

I don't use a case gauge for 10mm.  But I also only reload my own brass.

In my process it gets sized, primed, flared/charged, seated and, perhaps most notably, crimped separately.  I find that a separate crimp die helps a bunch in yielding solid ammo.

[CurtisM]

What do you look for in your own brass to determine if it has hit the end of it's useful life, excluding splits, large smiley's?  I think this is my question with the 10mm brass and how does everyone determine if it is not fatigued beyond use.

I'm using a set of Dillon reloading dies for the first time for the 10mm, which has the separate seating and crimping dies.  I have also setup to run all brass through a Redding pass through die.

[The_Shadow]

Yes I do use the Lyman Case gauge for 10mm as it is tighter than most chambers.
This casing was badly SMILED and the primer pocket was enlarged.
This picture shows where the expansion starts where some dies don't reach...


This is after pass through sizing with the LEE FCD...


I was showing that the smile, while it was ironed out, would fit the gauge. I actually saw the primer pocket closed back up to hold a new primer but not as tight as a good pocket.  I also reloaded and shot this casing to prove a point, even with chamber support the SMILE remained,the primer pocket got looser again.

I also use this gauge to test 40S&W, 357Sig and 9x25 Dillon for diameter issues if any.  But Pass Through Sizing has eliminated so much and increased the reliable feeding to 100% for me.

[CurtisM]

A friend sent me a link to this page https://tinyurl.com/myzdyf9 that explains how to read an empty reloaded case.  This helps explain some of the symptoms of brass that is "abused".

[PCFlorida]

I have a case gauge but really only use it when reloading ammo that has been fired through my Glocks. I don't load my Colt DE ammo that hot and everything else has a tighter chamber.

[sqlbullet]

What do you look for in your own brass to determine if it has hit the end of it's useful life, excluding splits, large smiley's?  I think this is my question with the 10mm brass and how does everyone determine if it is not fatigued beyond use.

1. Split
2. Won't hold a primer
3. Has a smiley

These go in the scrap brass bin. Otherwise they go again.

[Pablo]

I scored 3 different case gauges. So far none of my handy work has failed. Give me more time. In truth I go relatively slow in batches.

[Benchrst]

I use a Dillon gauge to spot check during a load session.

All new loads (that differ in oal or bullet type) are checked with a plunk & spin.

[CurtisM]

1. Split
2. Won't hold a primer
3. Has a smiley

These go in the scrap brass bin. Otherwise they go again.

Thank you, this is sort of what I thought it would be.  Appreciate the feedback

[CurtisM]

I use a Dillon gauge to spot check during a load session.

All new loads (that differ in aol or bullet type) are checked with a plunk & spin.

Just ordered a new Dillon case gauge tonight.  Thanks.

[tommac919]

Been using a max/no go gauge for a while... I spot check about every ten + rounds with same....
( 96% of my rounds after normal sizing fit the gauge fine ) those I think may be a problem are put on the side... the real test ( unless you want to fit all guns ) is the plunk test in your barrel... if it passes the plunk test in the barrel it's to be used in, then no issues

[CurtisM]

I understand random spot checks, but in my experience I gauge 100% so I don't have any FTF / won't go fully into battery.  I shoot USPSA from time to time and I see individuals that don't gauge and they will spend more time during the stage clearing failures.  For practice ammo it might be acceptable to have a round or two give issues every so often, but I'd prefer to avoid this.

[Ten Ten]

YES, I use "shooters box" stainless steel case gauge for the mighty 10mm....got it from Ebay

[PCFlorida]

I have a Dillon and a Hornady. Just received a Shooter's Box gauge based on "Ten Ten". I had never heard of them before, but it is a nice gauge. Thanks!