Sending out my Glock 20 SF for grip reduction improvement......

Started by Pablo, March 05 2017 07:49:52 AM MST

Previous topic - Next topic

Pablo

Years ago I had a Glock 20 Gen 3 Regular.  It was like holding a 4x6. Not sure why I even bought it at the time as I could NEVER get a grip. My hands are relatively small, yet strong. I sold it, but kept the aftermarket stuff. Then I bought the SF version thinking it felt perfect, but still a bit fat and slippery. So the time has come. 

1) School me on the process. Can I send the frame somewhere direct? USPS? UPS? FedEx? AND can they send it back to me direct? (I cannot say I know these laws)

2) What are the current top places? Reduction first, then stippling/texture? Pleas provide some links to favorites.

3) How about DIY? Links? I have some level of skills. I've build modded guns for the last 8 years.

Thanks!

P

sqlbullet

I haven't done it.  I have largish hands.

But I have read about it.  I have three daughters who find the Glock 20 a bit intimidating to get a good grip, and I have considered doing a grip reduction on a "family range" gun, cause everyone has to shoot 10mm you know ;D

Brownells actually has a pretty good page about the process:

http://www.brownells.com/GunTech/Glock-Grip-Reduction-Custom-Beavertails/detail.htm?lid=10437

Brownells is using the fill and grind method, which allows for rather aggressive reduction and reshaping of the rear grip.  Once completed you will have to re-texture, and there are a bunch of videos about this process.  Brownells guide does touch on it as well.

The Truth About Guns also has a guide on doing the heat and compress method:

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2010/07/john-suttie/big-bore-brick/

In this method the hollow cavity is not filled/ground down, but rather heated and re-shaped.  This method is not nearly as aggressive and is not suitable for drastic grip reductions.  On the other hand, good reductions using this method are barely noticeable, and leave the factory texturing and checkering in place.

If I were to go down this path, I would start with the heat and reshape method.  If I could not achieve the results I needed I would then progress to the fill and grind method.  I see two advantages with this.  One, the less drastic modification may be enough.  And two, if I did decide I needed the fill and grind, the heat and compress will have made the frame a bit more stiff before I start removing material.

I am a DIY guy, so I have never looked into commercial places.  Several guys here have done reductions and hopefully they will be along to share some practical experience too.