experience with Witness sear?

[8strings8rounds]

I have a new recoil spring on the way, and an extractor (just in case)
I noticed a consistent, though small, ding on every casing and managed to match it to the edge of the ejection port. It appears the shells are kicking too hard/too soon, so I will be making some small changes to that ejector.

[Intercooler]

Like this Match in the video?

[Gzig5]

Sorry to drag a year old thread out of the bushes, but I have the same concern as the OP regarding SAO trigger creep on  Witness Hunter and this thread didn't seem to have a wrapup.  I've adjusted out the pre-travel as much as possible and  I still have about .100" of trigger travel for the sear to release the hammer.  The pre-travel wasn't too concerning, acts like a two stage trigger which I prefer on a rifle.  But that creep on the second stage is very distracting for deliberate trigger pulls.  I haven't done the polishing routine but the trigger is already very smooth and likely get better.  The weight is about right just over 4 lbs.  None of the info I've found online addresses sear engagement.  Any luck with the EGW hardened sear?  Does another hammer have shorter engagement?  I don't want it on the hairy edge but right now it has way too much engagement for deliberate shooting.

[8strings8rounds]

Sorry to drag a year old thread out of the bushes, but I have the same concern as the OP regarding SAO trigger creep on  Witness Hunter and this thread didn't seem to have a wrapup.  I've adjusted out the pre-travel as much as possible and  I still have about .100" of trigger travel for the sear to release the hammer.  The pre-travel wasn't too concerning, acts like a two stage trigger which I prefer on a rifle.  But that creep on the second stage is very distracting for deliberate trigger pulls.  I haven't done the polishing routine but the trigger is already very smooth and likely get better.  The weight is about right just over 4 lbs.  None of the info I've found online addresses sear engagement.  Any luck with the EGW hardened sear?  Does another hammer have shorter engagement?  I don't want it on the hairy edge but right now it has way too much engagement for deliberate shooting.

Since last year, I have done a bunch of playing with the internals.
I probably had a solid 8-10 hours into trial/error testing with hook shape and sear engagement- and though I ended up with a really sweet pull and break, I knew it wouldn't last a very long time where I had removed the hardened material from the parts..
I ended up purchasing the egw hard sear, and later, a Henning trigger and hammer.
The EGW sear by itself doesn't do a whole lot in the stock setup. I believe it has a slightly different engagement that is best for if you plan to change other parts out (like the hammer)
Biggest downside (or upside depending on your preference) to the EGW sear is that it eliminates the FPB lifter. Meaning it defeats a safety. I don't shoot competition, so the firing pin block isn't a major concern of mine, but take that as you will.
Another downside is that the hard sear requires some careful modification to fit the sear cage. Even the "EGW prepped sear" from Henning needs some smithing, but I believe is prepped specifically to engage a new hammer- the Race Hammer.

The flat trigger definitely wraps up the whole thing.  It really let's you tune in the pre and over-travel.

I'm not sure how to load a video on here without posting it to YouTube first, but I've attached a picture of the final product.

If I get a chance this weekend, I'll get the parts together and post pictures of everything in and out.

I feel like I'm missing some details, but feel free to ask more questions.

[Gzig5]

Thanks for the reply!  It definitely is helpful.  Too bad there doesn't seem to be a drop in solution.  I've looked at that straight trigger and I'm just not sure I would like the feel but I'll keep an open mind.  Wasn't aware the EGW defeated the FPB, I need to understand it's function better to make  a judgement how I feel about that.  I'm not running and gunning either.  Too old, too fat.

I've looked at how the sear engages the hammer and my first thought was to shorten the engagement by thinning out the sear from the bottom side.  That would leave the engaging surfaces fully hard except when it rolls over the edge.  Shortening the hooks on the hammer is probably a little more fiddly.  I don't need glass rod-breaking crispness.  If I could get rid of 50% of the creep I'd be pretty happy.

I need to do some research and figure out what it takes to harden that sintered or molded metal, whatever the sear is made from.  I have a heat treat furnace to play with as well as Kasenite.  Maybe the Melonite process, that seems to be popular and makes stuff hard and slick.

I'm not against sending it out either, but I don't know to whom and I want to have a go at it first.

Looking forward to anything else you can come up with.

[8strings8rounds]

Thanks for the reply!  It definitely is helpful.  Too bad there doesn't seem to be a drop in solution.  I've looked at that straight trigger and I'm just not sure I would like the feel but I'll keep an open mind.  Wasn't aware the EGW defeated the FPB, I need to understand it's function better to make  a judgement how I feel about that.  I'm not running and gunning either.  Too old, too fat.

I've looked at how the sear engages the hammer and my first thought was to shorten the engagement by thinning out the sear from the bottom side.  That would leave the engaging surfaces fully hard except when it rolls over the edge.  Shortening the hooks on the hammer is probably a little more fiddly.  I don't need glass rod-breaking crispness.  If I could get rid of 50% of the creep I'd be pretty happy.

I need to do some research and figure out what it takes to harden that sintered or molded metal, whatever the sear is made from.  I have a heat treat furnace to play with as well as Kasenite.  Maybe the Melonite process, that seems to be popular and makes stuff hard and slick.

I'm not against sending it out either, but I don't know to whom and I want to have a go at it first.

Looking forward to anything else you can come up with.

One thing I had considered during my first experiments was kind of along the lines of what you mentioned: I wanted to remove material from the bottom of the sear, but at an angle. What I found though was that removing material there allowed the sear to tilt more into the hammer hook and allow more play on the other side where it engages the safety. The trigger got heavier as the sear needed to push the hammer back more to clear it..
What I did do to really shorten the creep was shortened the hooks on the hammer- taking material from the top, not the face, to leave as much of the hardened material on the contract surfaces as possible.
When I did that, I ended up having a noticeably larger overtravel in my trigger when the hammer dropped. Problem was that if I adjusted my trigger to minimize that, then the sear would hit the second hook on the hammer as it dropped- so that also had to get filed and shortened.
If you look at the Henning Ultimate Hammer (it's not a race hammer, I was thinking of my CZ) it's an EGW part that's been made with shortened hooks and better engagement angles. It, by itself can improve your creep a lot. The trade-off being that you'll really want to put in the sear to optimize.. Which needs smithing.. At least mine did. I'll get pictures up later.
I had considered heat treating my parts as well as I make tools for a living and also have some great heat-treating options. Unfortunately, our metal analyzer is set up for the steels we use and gave me varying readings off other parts I've tested in the past.
If you email Henning, they're very helpful there and might give you some insight as far as how to go about hardening the parts, or can better explain how their parts work.

As far as the firing pin safety, it's the opposite of series 80 1911s and other firearms with similar safeties that I'm aware of.
What they all have in common: A plunger with a spring in the bottom of the slide that's actuated by a moving part in the trigger group. Pulling the trigger unblocks the firing pin, in good timing, just before the hammer drops.
What's different: in certain 1911s , the firing pin is block needs to be pushed up into the slide to allow the gun to fire.
In the Tanfoglios, it's the opposite- the plunger is depressed until the trigger is pulled- dropping the block out of the way of the firing pin.
So by using an EGW sear, the arm that engages that plunger is omitted, meaning the firing pin is never blocked. Some guys remove the extra parts, but I didn't, because I don't like having a big hole allowing dirt directly into my firing pin.

[8strings8rounds]

I haven't forgotten pictures, just haven't had a moment yet!