New Phenomenon with Gen 4 G20

[DM1906]

OK after take apart where it seems to be a PIA slide removal that can be done after a few attempts each, seems some weird trick to get it done on this gun.

Then I got the slide to rack back several times to reset and lock up. But a few times I had to do the push the bar to push the trigger all the way forward to get the gun to rack back to reset. Trigger resets and the gun operates normally after that.  I have a feeling this isn't normal?

Edit: FOUND SOME THING!

OK...U-TUBE to the rescue!  Its the bump on the trigger bar!  Move slide to left when moving back then move back right.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj8Qt8ofCAw

Still a PIA to field strip still...

Simply put, there's something wrong with your pistol, or your familiarity with them. Visit an armorer or your LGS for a closer look.

[sqlbullet]

Agree.

Glocks are the easiest gun to strip and reassemble I own, and I own a fair few.

[PCFlorida]

I have to agree, I currently own 4 Glocks, and have had as many as 7. They are among the easiest to strip and re-assemble.

[Roguer]

Well this one doesn't disassemble easy and now it has a new quirk.

Slide going almost all the way back and stopping 1/4" from the rear, then a trigger pull seems to set it then the slide goes all the way forward. And this one wasn't trying to dissemble it. How ever there was an attempt right before racking the slide back to reset the trigger that didn't work.

[DM1906]

That definitely sounds wrong. Make sure the trigger/ejector group assy rear pin is in place. I'd remove and replace it, to make sure the assy is fully seated and the pin isn't broken. If it's missing or broken, that's about the only thing I can think of that would cause what you describe, short of a major component actually bent or broken. The trigger shouldn't reset until about the last 1/4" of forward travel. If it's resetting or interfering before that, something's outta whack, or broken.

[sqlbullet]

Agree...Your gun sounds broken and potentially unsafe.

[4949shooter]

My advice is to send it back to Glock. They will make it right for you.

[The_Shadow]

Roguer, something is amiss with the G-20.  What generation is it? 3rd? 4th?  If this is a factory new gun call Glock to return to Glock!

Just to be sure, before you try to remove the slide, did you pull the trigger to decock the striker?
Is your RSA (recoil spring assembly) factory?
If you have the gun apart, inspect the recoil assembly for damage, the spring could be binding up toward the end of slide  retraction.  Have you tried the slide on the frame without the RSA inside to see if there is any binding or stopping short?

Inspect the locking block where the barrel sits, for bent or broken damage.

What about the plunger in the slide, does it move freely?  Is it binding?  If binding you might need to remove the slide cover plate (carefully because there is the spring and rod for the extractor under some pressure).  Remove the striker and inspect all parts for incorrect assembly or damage.

Glocks are fairly simple guns with few parts...

[DM1906]

Roguer, something is amiss with the G-20.  What generation is it? 3rd? 4th?  If this is a factory new gun call Glock to return to Glock!

Just to be sure, before you try to remove the slide, did you pull the trigger to decock the striker?
Is your RSA (recoil spring assembly) factory?
If you have the gun apart, inspect the recoil assembly for damage, the spring could be binding up toward the end of slide  retraction.  Have you tried the slide on the frame without the RSA inside to see if there is any binding or stopping short?

Inspect the locking block where the barrel sits, for bent or broken damage.

What about the plunger in the slide, does it move freely?  Is it binding?  If binding you might need to remove the slide cover plate (carefully because there is the spring and rod for the extractor under some pressure).  Remove the striker and inspect all parts for incorrect assembly or damage.

Glocks are fairly simple guns with few parts...

Good points, but I was under the impression this is a new, unfired G40.

[The_Shadow]

I didn't see which model he had...Same stuff would apply to any and all of the Glocks...

[Roguer]

Oops sorry this a 40.

[Roguer]

Solved my Problems the American Way!

Took it back to my LGS (Local Gun Shop) (I have been getting guns from him for years) and explained every thing and the problems and since it wasn't fired he gave me a full refund! He didn't have another Glock 40 or I would of traded and got another one that was probably the only last one in the area. This turned out to be a Glock Stocker so I...

GOT GLOCK (40) AGAIN!

The LGS I got the first one from had people try disassemble it, most could do it mostly but some took some tries, one got it both attempts.  But I tried to stress the other slide locking and such, don't know of they just saw it as me as an ignoramus and they agreed it seemed fine.   I relayed a few things I got from here and a few other places so they can check it out.  But every one's advice here helped me out a lot and thanks to my LGS standing by their products I was able to get another Glock 40!

I posted here in the Gen4 Glock 20 as the two are about the same.

[will965]

Gotta love those home gunsmith.. If you are not an armorer do not take the gun apart farther than advised. Always screwed up with these aftermarket parts everything has to be fixed with all these extra parts that are not made for the glock. I've had stock glocks for last 20 years and I've had awesome luck. I have a Glock model 40 now that will blow through any rounds that I can get my hands on like Buffalo Bore Underwood or even my really stuffed up and loads..

[Forrest]

Enough with the home gunsmith bashing. Being a certified Glock armorer isn't exactly akin to brain surgery.
The trigger reset problem is an easy fix. Try bending the disconnector to a little bit over ninety degrees on the inside of the big L.  95° works great.
Every owner should know how to disassemble their slides. The biggest cause of failure to fire in well used striker fired pistols is poorly maintained striker channels. It is also the only way to disassemble the pistol without pulling the trigger.
Some difficulty can be experienced in disassembly due to the recoil spring assembly shifting out of place. I find this on my Gen 3's alot. I just ensure the striker is down and lightly tap the slide with the heel of my hand while holding down the slide stop tabs.

[nickE10mm]

FWIW, what you experiencing when reassembling is normal.  There are a few ways to get the slide to go on.  (in fact, I hadn't heard of the way you watched on youtube...)...

Method #1. While the slide is removed but assembled (and ready to go back onto the receiver ...), depress the firing pin safety plunger in and push the rear of the striker arm (the one that makes contact with the cruciform plate below during trigger operation) forward towards the muzzle of the firearm until the firing pin protrudes from the breech face, then reassemble as normal.

Method #2:  The trigger should be in it's rearward most position before removing the slide, locked safely back.  When the rear of the slide and rear of receiver are lined up (but otherwise "locked / stopped" so that reassembly is prevented (the condition you describe in your post above)... and WHILE continuing to put rearward pressure on the slide in an effort to 'fully' reassemble slide to receiver, use your third or fourth hand (lol) and push FORWARD on the trigger (which is locked in rearward position still) and the slide should 'click' in and successfully mate to the receiver.



Annnywayyys....  yes, what you experienced is normal for Gen4 firearms that have aftermarket triggers in them, it would seem.