Sources of 10mm, 220 grain hard cast bullets?

Started by Frag Nasty, June 19 2016 05:02:08 PM MDT

Previous topic - Next topic

The_Shadow

#15
Yes, you could clean them of lube first, then maybe rinse with acetone, but the price of the cleaners are likely more that getting some new already powder coated bullets.  LOL  Some have used the acetone or MEK as a wet transfer of the powdered paint method trying to eliminate excess.  The pul measured amounts for the amount of bullets and shake till they get good and sticky then spread out on wire to dry separately, then bake to cure.

It would be good project and you'd have powder left to do others. 
The "10mm" I'm Packin', Has The Bullets Wackin', Smakin' & The Slide is Rackin' & Jackin'!
NRA Life Member
Southeast, LoUiSiAna

agtman

I think you're right.

Thinking thru it a bit more, ... when the cost of the cleaning agents, along with the  time and hassle involved, are factored in, it adds more steps to the process. It might just be simpler to buy the costed SNS 220-grainers, and get right to loading.
The 10mm AUTO ...
When you're finally serious about stopping power.

my_old_glock

Quote from: agtman on January 12 2017 02:34:26 PM MST
Shadow: do you think it would be worth "white gassing" my remaining Redline 220s to get rid of the red mold lube, and then dry powder coating them, as you mentioned, to eliminate leading problems?

I know I can't do anything about the sizing (.401), but they're sitting here in a box unused, looking like a waste of $$$ at this point. If I didn't already have them, I'd go ahead and buy 1K of SNS's 220gn coated bullets.

You can boil them in water. The wax will float to the surface after it melts off.


.

BillinOregon

Shadow, where did you get a .4105 sizing die? All I am seeing from Lyman, RCBS and Lee are .401. Keep seeing the suggestion of sizing to .402 if shooting in a Glock OEM barrel.

The_Shadow

BillinOregon, my die is not 0.4105"   My die is for the STAR sizer and it was ordered at 0.4015".  It is working well  for my guns even the Glocks factory BBL. 
The "10mm" I'm Packin', Has The Bullets Wackin', Smakin' & The Slide is Rackin' & Jackin'!
NRA Life Member
Southeast, LoUiSiAna

agtman

Hey guys, checking in again with a 220gn HC question ...

Looking for some expert suggestions using AA-7 powder, as that's what I'm heavily stocked up on.

Last week I received a 500-rd box of SNS's powder-costed HC boolits.

Looking at my old loads notes from back when I was experimenting with some crappy way-too-soft Redline 220s, I worked up from 8.5 to 9.2 of AA-7, but the leading in my G20's LWD (stock-length) tube started causing chambering issues, in addition to being a PITA to clean up, so I basically put those boolits away, and went back to playing with 180gn jacketed loads.

Now I've got my G40 to play with, using the stock barrel with these SNS coated 220 pills. I'm looking to develop a nice, hot woods-busting load. This would be using new Starline brass and CCI 350 mag primers.

Anyone developed a "Heavy & Hard" 220gn load with AA-7? Thanks!   8)
The 10mm AUTO ...
When you're finally serious about stopping power.

Benchrst

agtman


I've loaded SNS' 220s w/ #9, and the best velocity (G20.4 w/ AF 5.2") I could achieve before hitting my stopping point was 1,050. I did get another 50fps out of 800X, and am still working with N350.

My own data suggests that #7 is best relegated to 180s and lighter (absolutely shines with 165s), and that 220s are a bit too big for the 10's case - better #s can be achieved with a 200 WFN.

If you end up testing #7 & 220s please post your results!





G20.4 / LW / Overwatch / Sevigny

agtman

The 10mm AUTO ...
When you're finally serious about stopping power.