Spring weight

[TSP45ACP]

This just kills me, why in the world are you people using a single spring set up, when DPM makes the best triple PROGRESSIVE system ever made. It is right at $100.00 and there is NO comparison of any single spring to this Tech. Look up DPM reduced recoil systems, that SOLVES any and all problems with the 10mm.

yakmaster, you have six posts in this forum, and all six are sales pitches for the DPM.

Give it a rest.

Not to beat a dead horse and no disrespect intended to the mods (sqlbullet), but the DPM system looks very much like the Sprinco Recoil Reducing guide rod that I run in all my 1911's.  With my Delta, I use it and a #20 recoil, #25 mainspring and a EGW flat bottom firing pin stop.

[sqlbullet]

TSP45ACP, no disrespect taken.  And given the diversity of your posts, I welcome and value that opinion.  If your post record was less diverse, I might not

Also, in a 1911 that flat bottom firing pin stop and 25 lb mainspring says a bunch about how you set up a 1911 10mm.  And it protects the frame both ways, not just one.

[fltbed]

Not to beat a dead horse and no disrespect intended to the mods (sqlbullet), but the DPM system looks very much like the Sprinco Recoil Reducing guide rod that I run in all my 1911's.  With my Delta, I use it and a #20 recoil, #25 mainspring and a EGW flat bottom firing pin stop.

Hmm, gonna have to take a second look at that Sprinco system. 
How many rounds do you have on yours Tracy?  I take it their holding up better than they use to?

[broncobuddha]

He concluded that for a full size 1911 in 10mm the optimum was a 25 lb hammer spring, a flat bottom firing pin stop and an 18.5-19 lb recoil spring.

The hammer spring and flat bottom firing pin stops are huge parts of this equation.  The first thing the slide has to do is cock the hammer.  A very large amount of slide velocity gets taken up in doing this.  Increasing the hammer spring a little helps, but that flat bottom firing pin stop helps a bunch.  It dramatically decreases the amount of leverage the slide has on the hammer, by moving the force much closer to the fulcrum.  The action starts to feel like a compound bow with big cams.  During this one small section of travel, it is VERY heavy, then not too bad.

I have found this combination to stand up to everything I throw at my gun.  It is reliable and handles the full spectrum of 10mm loads without issue or hardship.

In a commander, I would bump the recoil spring 2 lbs to 20-21 range.

This is the info I was looking for. Specifically the recommendations for a Commander.

I've got a Dan Wesson 10mm CBOB (4 1/4" barrel) that is starting to develop more consistent feeding problems and its chewing up brass though ejection is still a decent distance.

It's a '09 model and I bought it used with maybe 250 rounds through it. (It's well over 1000 rounds now). Previous owner put in a FLGR and a shock buff. I removed the shock buff.

I don't know if he changed the spring at all which would have been 22# from the factory. Keith at DW recommended I switch to a 24# RS. I'm thinking of going with the suggestions in this thread though.

Regardless of what I do, the FLGR is coming out and a standard GI rod and plug are going in.

So, if I went to a flat bottomed FPS, 20# RS and a 25# mainspring, exactly what characteristics am I going to be looking at? (Reduced/felt recoil? Possibly harder manual racking of the slide? Affect on trigger pull? Possible clearing up of my issues?)

Thanks guys!

[sqlbullet]

So, first, answers to your questions.  If you switch to a flat bottom stop and 25# mainspring, it will feel like more of a push, and it will be quite difficult to rack the slide on a dropped hammer.  In fact, I always cock the hammer with my thumb, then rack the slide.  Depending on how smooth the mating surfaces of your sear and hammer are, the difference in pull could be very slight to a pound or two.  There is more resistance, so any roughness will be magnified.  In my gun, I could barely tell a difference, but the sear/hammer engaging surfaces were as smooth as glass.

I am curious about the comment "chewing up brass".  I had an issue with my 1911 chewing up brass.



This was fixed by adjusting the extractor tension.  The extractor was not holding the brass securely enough.  When the ejector hits the brass, the extractor should become a pivot point to fling the brass from the action.  Since my extractor was not doing this job, the brass stayed in the action as the slide moved back forward, and it got chewed up, then popped out of the action.  It still seemed to travel about the right distance though.

The second common issue of feeding problems in a 1911 is a weak magazine spring.  The action expects the next round in the magazine, or follower on the last round, to "pop" the case head up onto the breech face.  If it isn't strong enough to do this, then you will get partial feed stoppages.  They are also often called a "three-point" stoppage, and look like this:



Stronger mag springs will help, though in some cases it is an issue with the follower, if it only happens on the last round from the magazine.

Pics of the chewed up brass and the action when a stoppage occurs will help.