Looks like FireClean oil is just Canola cooking oil.

[Geeman]

Ed's Red is a decent mix.  I use some Mobil1 0w-40 in replacement of some of the ATF.  I also use some Marvel Mystery oil in the mix. 

http://www.precisionweapons.com/CartGenie/EDs_Red.pdf

I use Ezzox as of late, and I've been happy with that too, but it dries totally.  I don't trust it as a lube, but protection from rust is great.

Greg

[sqlbullet]

I have used Ed's Red.  I use it to clean, then lube with Mobile 1.  About a year ago I inherited 4-5 big bottles of Hoppes #9, so I plan to use that up, then back to Ed's red I will go.

[The_Shadow]

There have been "SNAKE OIL SALESMEN" as long as time itself! 

[sqlbullet]

The argument has been made that since these guys went to the trouble of figuring out a blend of oils that work well, they are entitled to the price they charge.

I dunno.

[Aod10mm]

I found this while doing some research for different CLP's. I do not know anything about this guy or site so take it for what its worth.

http://ronkulas.proboards.com/thread/274/review-comparison-gun-care-products

I ended up settling on Frog Lube (and even giving away half of the liquid I still have some). I, too, have had problems with the gumming up of the different parts but after following the directions of heating up the metal, applying the paste, then wiping it off after an hour I have not had a single problem and have been running dry.

Even though it is a bit on the more expensive side I will keep with it. Just my own preference.

[sqlbullet]

Heat up, apply a vegetable based oil, allow to sit and wipe clean.  Sounds like seasoning a cast iron skillet.  End result is a coating of polymerized fat.  Flaxseed oil would be the best solution for this as it is a drying oil that will get harder and more durable over time.  If you aren't worried about food grade oil, linseed oil would work pretty good too.  At least that is the chemistry.

These processes work best on a base that is somewhat porous base metal, like a cast iron pan.  Since our guns are generally carbon steel, parkerizing the surface would be indicated prior to application of this process to provide a better bond.  Stainless steel would not take a coating well in general.

I have a build I was going to parkerize and cerakote, but I think I might parkerize and then heat, apply flaxseed oil and bake at 300° for an hour like I would a skillet and see how it turns out.

[Aod10mm]

Pretty much exactly how it was described to me, just like cast iron. I know I can tell a big difference on mine and my daughter's AR's. The ring that develops on the firing pin has gotten a lot easier to clean after the third application. Last cleaning it cleaned up with hardly any work.

[sqlbullet]

I have a new AR bolt/carrier at home that just has a park job at the moment.  I think when I get a chance I will apply some BLO and heat it up a bit.