200 gr hardcast recommendations

[sqlbullet]

all you need to slug your bore is a hammer, 3/8" dowel and a fishing weight that is bigger than .410"

Several guys on here are big fans of gas checks for 10mm rounds.  The 10mm certainly operates at enough pressure that in some cases you may need one. NOE offers both plain base and gas check designs for all their .401" molds.

[Cold Trigger Finger]

NOE,  ok.  I need to get another Chronograph.  Shot my last one last fall.    :'(
  I regret passing up the boxes of cast and plated 10 mm bullets at Sportsman's Warehouse last time I was in town.  I was unsure if plated bullets were ok in Glock or LW barrels .  From what I've read on here and Glock Talk.  They do great with them.
What do you use for a crimp die?  Seat and crimp or separate crimp operation? 

[The_Shadow]

I have the RCBS 10mm Carbide die set, I have the taper crimp adjusted for a 10mm casing for proper crimp application, but I use a 1/8" die spacer ring to raise the die upward while doing the seating, so that no crimp occurs.  Doing this allows the bullets to be fully seated without the casing closing against the bullet while it is moving.

Then to finish the cartridge with the proper crimp I remove the spacer, and only have to back out the seater stem to run them in that step.  During this separate step, the case is squeezed back against the bullet (which is not moving) to complete the taper crimp.

[Taterhead]

NOE,  ok.  I need to get another Chronograph.  Shot my last one last fall.    :'(
  I regret passing up the boxes of cast and plated 10 mm bullets at Sportsman's Warehouse last time I was in town.  I was unsure if plated bullets were ok in Glock or LW barrels .  From what I've read on here and Glock Talk.  They do great with them.
What do you use for a crimp die?  Seat and crimp or separate crimp operation?

Not all plated bullets are created equally. Those with heavy copper, like Powerbonds, work well in 10mm. In fact, I prefer Powerbonds to jacketed target bullets such as Precision Delta. Powerbonds are very consistently sized, whereas PD have at times been a little undersized. My G20 doesn't group as well with a .398" bullet than it does with a 0.400. Powerbonds are right on the money with sizing.

Others, like Berry's, must be treated with kid gloves loading techniques or groups are very inconsistent. They need a generous case mouth bell, seating and crimping in separate steps, lowish velocities, crimping just to close the case mouth, and crimping in a separate step.

But whether it is Berry's or Powerbonds, or whatever, all can be made to work well in Glock barrels.

http://tjconevera.com/po4018fpplbu.html

Seating and crimping in one step can be made to work well with jacketed bullets, but most plated bullets really need to have the operations be in separate steps. I have 2 different RCBS die sets in 40 bore. Both work great. I also have 2 Lyman taper crimp dies so that I can seat in station 4 then crimp in station 5.

Shadows technique of using a washer is a good solution for keeping the crimp setting. That will save time for single stage loading, and keep things consistent. Of course, the seating stem must be reset each time, but that is much easier to do than re-setting the crimp. A dummy round can help to quickly re-set the seating depth. In the long run, I'd just grab a dedicated taper crimp die from Lyman, RCBS, or Lee. They are pretty inexpensive.

[Taterhead]

all you need to slug your bore is a hammer, 3/8" dowel and a fishing weight that is bigger than .410"

Several guys on here are big fans of gas checks for 10mm rounds.  The 10mm certainly operates at enough pressure that in some cases you may need one. NOE offers both plain base and gas check designs for all their .401" molds.

A REALLY easy way to do it is to start with a fired case. Put some soft scrap lead in it and melt it with a torch. I have melted fishing weights for this. Then remove the "casting" from the case with a kinetic hammer. In that way, there is a shape that is almost perfect for slugging the barrel. I use a brass squib rod to drive the casting with a dead blow mallet. The diameter is a bit larger than bore, so it is about perfect for slugging the bore.

I agree that 10mm doesn't need gas checks. It just so happens that the only lead bullet I buy happens to ship with them. That would be the Beartooth.

[Cold Trigger Finger]

  Great,  thanks everyone. 

[cwlongshot]

all you need to slug your bore is a hammer, 3/8" dowel and a fishing weight that is bigger than .410"

Several guys on here are big fans of gas checks for 10mm rounds.  The 10mm certainly operates at enough pressure that in some cases you may need one. NOE offers both plain base and gas check designs for all their .401" molds.

A REALLY easy way to do it is to start with a fired case. Put some soft scrap lead in it and melt it with a torch. I have melted fishing weights for this. Then remove the "casting" from the case with a kinetic hammer. In that way, there is a shape that is almost perfect for slugging the barrel. I use a brass squib rod to drive the casting with a dead blow mallet. The diameter is a bit larger than bore, so it is about perfect for slugging the bore.

I agree that 10mm doesn't need gas checks. It just so happens that the only lead bullet I buy happens to ship with them. That would be the Beartooth.

This would work... but why not just make a casting of the chamber with Cerrosafe??

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/462291/cerrosafe-chamber-casting-alloy-1-2-lb

CW

[Ramjet]

Yea love cast slug the bore go one thousands over the bore diameter. Alloy? I use mostly is the same BNH as Lyman #2. I got in on the mould buy for the Mihec over at casboolits and cast FP all the way to 200 grain hollow points from a four cavity mould. LInotype I have 100 lbs of that 200 lbs of plumbers lead. Linotype I get form a printer shop that used to do typeset printing and has several tons of the stuff and they have been selling it cheap to me .... life is good.

[sqlbullet]

Cerrosafe changes size over time, plus the hassle of plugging the barrel.  As a plus if you cast the entire bore you could test for uniformity.

Of course you would have to adjust for expansion and contraction over time.  Easier to me to just cast a bullet oversize by putting an edge of aluminum foils on the mold face and pound it through the barrel.

[cwlongshot]

Cerrosafe changes size over time, plus the hassle of plugging the barrel.  As a plus if you cast the entire bore you could test for uniformity.

Of course you would have to adjust for expansion and contraction over time.  Easier to me to just cast a bullet oversize by putting an edge of aluminum foils on the mold face and pound it through the barrel.

You do realize that the lead slug you suggest will only show the smallest diameter...

Yes cerrosafe will shrink slightly to allow removal then return to actual size where it will stay for plenty of time to measure and record. Why would one require it to be for ever? Simply melt and re cast.
Plugging the barrel is quick and simple. Not enough "bother" to even mention. Done it myself dozens of times...

CW

[Taterhead]

I did the method that I described just last week, and it was a < 10 minute proposition. Melt some lead into a spent case with a torch, let it cool, remove it with a kinetic hammer, hit it with a dab of gun oil, then slug away. Simple.

I have been thinking about the cerrosafe, just for giggles. I can see that it would be very useful for taking chamber dimensions of an old rifle.

[cwlongshot]

I did the method that I described just last week, and it was a < 10 minute proposition. Melt some lead into a spent case with a torch, let it cool, remove it with a kinetic hammer, hit it with a dab of gun oil, then slug away. Simple.

I have been thinking about the cerrosafe, just for giggles. I can see that it would be very useful for taking chamber dimensions of an old rifle.

Both ways work, no doubts. Most times the bore dimensions are needed in addition to any chamber discrepancies. The Cerrosafe shows both in one step, not much longer then the ten minutes. Cerrosafe melts quick and at lo temps.

CW

[bjw0007]

You can get away with hardcast, but your barrel had better not increase in diameter towards the muzzle.  For medium-heavy loads 12 bhn is enough.  44 mag was developed with 16-1 lead-tin.  10mm is moving a little slower and pressures are similar.

[Taterhead]

You can get away with hardcast, but your barrel had better not increase in diameter towards the muzzle.  For medium-heavy loads 12 bhn is enough.  44 mag was developed with 16-1 lead-tin.  10mm is moving a little slower and pressures are similar.

Nice first post bjw! Welcome to the forum!