What can a .38 Special do?

[The_Shadow]

Wadcutter, I prefer to have the proper facts when stating specifics...the 44spl is listed as a 1.615" max, most load data is shown at 1.450"-1.460" with jacket bullets in the standard cannelure, while it is possible to load longer.  I also show data for the 44 mag as long as 1.730" when the standard was 1.620" with the 240 grain jacketed ammo in the standard cannelure.  My reason for making these post is simple; SAFETY!  Some cylinders and actions can be too short for bullets seated beyond the standard COL. or bullets that are longer than standard.

But the original poster asked a specific questions...

What can a .38 Special do?

What can you push a 125, 158 to?

Can this see 600+lbs?

We have shown what it takes to make the 600 ft/lb and it exceeds the standard 38spl+P loads.

People trying to make their cartridges into something that they were not meant to be can get themselves or bystanders hurt or injured and firearms damaged or ruined.

[wadcutter]

Some cylinders and actions can be too short for bullets seated beyond the standard COL. or bullets that are longer than standard.

That's why I said theoretically with the 44 special and didn't give out any load data. Of course you'd need bullets with the crimp groove in the correct location and a  44 magnum revolver. As for the 38 special  load I made sure to state that it also only be used in a 357 Magnum revolver in which case the load given is completely safe and has been for decades.

We have shown what it takes to make the 600 ft/lb and it exceeds the standard 38spl+P loads

The OP never mentioned anything about P +P or industry standards for the 38 Special. He wanted to know what the 38 Special can do and if it can make 600 ft/lbs of muzzle energy which it can and it can do it safely in a 357 magnum revolver which again I made sure to mention.

People trying to make their cartridges into something that they were not meant to be can get themselves or bystanders hurt or injured and firearms damaged or ruined.

I don't know why you came to that conclusion , but I only use loads from reputable sources and never exceed max charge. I recommend everyone do the same.

[Pinsnscrews]

It was my understanding that .38spl brass was thinner at the case head and not as strong as .357mag brass. At least, that was my Grandfather's explanation as to why he always bought .357mag brass and cut it down for use in his .38spl.

[wadcutter]

You might find this interesting pinscrew. Although the webbing is longer on the 357 case the webbing isn't any thicker.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWpgBy1wmKs

[The_Shadow]

Yes, he does advise they are different manufacture of cases...clearly observed by the design in the base of the webbing.



One thing that I know is, that the lesser bullet tension exerted but casing, as seated long, means lower velocities, this varies  some for different powders, extreme spreads and standard deviations can be higher.  This differences can be attributed to poor ignition and pressure development before the bullet clears the shorter casing. 

I know it works but...another thing to consider with magnum loadings is bullet jump under recoil, this can lock up the action of the revolver.  The cure is tapping the offensive round back deep enough so that the cylinder will once again turn to swing out.  Another issue is a squib/misfire because the powder didn't ignite or fully ignite, that could be because of light to no crimp and slower burning powders, with the primer pushing the bullet out of the casing and into the forcing cone or barrel.  This also can lock up the action, or if the bullet is clear of the rotating cylinder, cycle to the next round.

If you ever had a squib load, did you bring the tools necessary to clear that while at the range?  If you don't then your day is done, unless others have the necessary tools.  If you drive for an hour or more to the range or waste your range time trying to clear the weapon safely, what have you saved?

[gandog56]

If you ever had a squib load, did you bring the tools necessary to clear that while at the range?  If you don't then your day is done, unless others have the necessary tools.  If you drive for an hour or more to the range or waste your range time trying to clear the weapon safely, what have you saved?

I usually have a WWII rifle with me with a cleaning rod, so yeah, I do.