G 20 blew extractor

[my_old_glock]

Looking at the primer it is still rounded, the pressure could have been OK, but seeing the case blown out leads me to believe there was a an issue when the brass was being stamped, stressed cracked case prior to being reloaded...which caused the failure of the brass...Its hard to tell from the picture but does the casing show like it was being pulled rearward like the gun unlocked early?

I have seen many Federal factory loaded FC brass split on initial firings in 10mm...
I have swapped to non captive recoil systems for my Glock pistols...
Thanks for sharing your experience

Good luck with the getting things fixed up!

ATK (Federal, Speer, Blazer) make some of the best brass for 9mm, 380, 40S&W, and 45ACP. Their 40S&W brass is thicker than the other ammo company's brass. I would think they would do the same for the 10mm brass.



.

[Sean Thornton]

Just out of curiosity I decided to compare my Glock 30s .45 barrel to my Colt 70 Series 1911 .45 barrel. The comparison is not a confidence builder.

[The_Shadow]

These are the G-29 barrels
Storm Lake 40, Storm Lake 10mm, Factory 10mm. LWD 357Sig and LWD 9x25Dillon

[The_Shadow]

Here is another thing to consider, long casings can also increase the unsupported area...

[Sean Thornton]

The frame is unhurt and a new extractor put in. I went through 2 boxes of Remington factory 10mm and 30 rounds of the Double Tap 165 bullet rounds I had. Then ran 100 rounds of my handloads in new DT nickel brass, 180 XTP and 9.6 Blue Dot(will move up to 10 grains). All rounds fired without any problems. Examining the brass there seemed to also be no problems.

My conclusion is that the new unfired FC brass that was over 10 years old was the problem. The FC brass has now found its way to the recycle bin to be sold as scrap. Since Starline was out of brass I ended up purchasing 500 the DT nickel brass which is all the 10mm brass I could find.

Thank you to all that responded.

Now on to finding a DW Razorback or a Kimber Stainless Target II.