38 Supers

[Wolfie]

Thoughts, anyone have one?

[sqlbullet]

Almost as nifty a caliber as the 10mm.  I might have to try one someday.

[EdMc]

Like sqlbullet I've thought of buying one for a long time. Almost bought one of the Colt LW Commander versions last year but didn't care for the two tone finish. Interesting round for reloading, that sort of reasoning. Perhaps, one day....

[sqlbullet]

I actually have a 38 super barrel in my closet for my Witness that I was supposed to have reamed for 9X25.  Maybe I should fit it up and try some supers first.

[ShadeTreeVTX]

Back in the late 70's in the club I belonged to in Western NY - the 38 super was the king of the auto rounds for accuracy and in my opinion beat the 9mm all hollow in power- but alas like the 41 mag and the 10mm got lost in the in the 45 and 9mm hype ( 40 also ) I missed out on the 38 super and the 41 mag BUT not on the 10mm. The 38 super was the smoothest and most accurate auto I have ever fired, the 41mag had the best power and flat shooting  range of any magnum I have ever fired - alas I'm horrible with a revolver and didn't buy one (Dan Wesson ) which lead me to the 10mm auto, I finely have the best of both worlds ( auto and power ).

Doug

[EdMc]

Thoughts, anyone have one?

This is all your fault, bringing up the topic of 38 Supers. Yesterday I traded my Colt Commander in 45 on a new Light Weight Colt Commander in 38 Super.  I'd wanted one for several years and a local gun store had this one and allowed about what I'd payed for the 45 Commander a couple of years ago on trade.

[my_old_glock]

http://www.38super.net/

I have a 9x23 that will also shoot 38 Super. I have not shot it yet, so I can't say how it performs.


.

[EdMc]

Great site as it gives some info on loads with Colt barrels, not the info usually found for 'Race Guns' in the caliber. Thanks.

[Wolfie]

Lots of good info on the site.

Grabbed a few boxes of the Buffalo Bore, 124 grain and the 147 grain. Reminds me of the 180 grain and 200 grain Hornady 10mm. With the heavier bullet not opening up all the way.

[EdMc]

Thinking of buying a box of GA Arms 124 gr @~1340 and pulling a couple apart. Maybe I'll learn something.......and, also see if they 'bulge' in the Colt barrel. It isn't anywhere near as unsupported as a Delta barrel, just the small area where the feed ramp blends into the chamber.

[The_Shadow]

Thinking of buying a box of GA Arms 124 gr @~1340 and pulling a couple apart. Maybe I'll learn something.......and, also see if they 'bulge' in the Colt barrel. It isn't anywhere near as unsupported as a Delta barrel, just the small area where the feed ramp blends into the chamber.

I like your way of thinking!   

Here is the format I follow as I plug in the various info I can find. (feel free to also follow as it helps you and anyone else to follow what things are found)

Cartridge is from Ammo Manufacture: (Manufacture/bullet being used)
Ballistics Information: (Cartridge Caliber i.e. 10mm)
Muzzle Velocity: (advertised numbers if known) fps
Muzzle Energy: (advertised numbers if known)  ft. lbs
Brass Make/Headstamp: (Manufacture) – (Material made with i.e. Brass)
Bullet Make/Weight/Construction/Info; Length 0.6480"/Dia. 0.4005": 180 gr. FMJ
Actual weight 180.2 grains (concaved exposed lead base)(black sealer) Crimp line 0.3995"
C.O.A.L.: 1.2520"   
Primer: Large Pistol Brass color (green sealer crimped)
Case: Diameter 0.4215" Crimp Diameter 0.4215" Length 0.9900"
Powder Description/Positive ID/Type/Charge Weight:  ? ?  6.2 grains *
* (very fine irregular ball with tear drop/rod)

[EdMc]

Thanks Wade, I'm thinking of using the Colt for a CCW. Like you I normally carry something of less value on the rare chance I might have to use it and not see it again for a long time. I do like 1911s, and the light weight and size of this one.....well, maybe.

I like your format on the pull downs......how do you usually remove the bullet? Using the 'hammer' type puller will make a mess and powder measurement suspect. From your pull downs on 10mm, GA Arms seems to favor Longshot. In their current ads the bullet isn't a Gold Dot as used before, but another hollow point. I'll have to look again...I have a problem confusing Speer and Sierra, another sign of dementia I guess. heh.....

[The_Shadow]

I use the Kinetic pullet, I clean the inside with a dry paper towel wrapped around a dowel rod.  I smack it against the end grain of a 4"x4" standing on the floor, I try to tap it to get the bullet to drop out softly so the power is not doesn't splash all over.  As I retrieve the bullet, I work over the scale pan and on a sheet of typing paper, incase any spills it is easy to see and pick up...I use a small paint brush to sweep any kernels off the pullet and my fingers into the pan.

Also I will strike the bottom of the puller with a "D"cell battery, to dislodge any powder, incase any kernels are static to the inside of the puller...

When I reassemble, I resize the casing without the depriming pin, re expand the case mouth the seat as normal while putting them back together.
Good luck!

[EdMc]

Good deal, I'll try it your way. Normally it takes several good whacks on a concrete floor to remove the bullet for me.

[The_Shadow]

Yes the lighter the bullet and the heavier the crimp the harder it is to get the projectile to start moving.  The semi autos are easier as they aren't heavily crimped.

When you whack it, look to see if the bullet started to move, once it starts it it continues to move easier with each tap.  I try to keep the puller from bouncing back off the wooden 4"x4"  more like a dead blow hammer.

It is possible to get bullets out with a single rap but, like I mentioned the powder can bounce around and even out of the puller...