10mm reloaders DO NOT USE PPU BRASS!!!

[The_Shadow]

You will want to inspect it closely as with any brass for reuse.  There have been issues with the PPU 40 brass as well.  As you resize you will want to check for bullet to case tension for secure bullet fit.  These would not hold the bullets secure with any amount of resizing!  After annealing they did hold their resizing dimensions slightly better.

Reloads do pose risk so you are your own quality control...

[The_Shadow]

OK, now that the PPU brass was completely dry from water quenching, after the annealing process yesterday, I reloaded them and this time the reworked brass held firm to the bullets no slipping or spinning, could actually feel the tension during the case expansion (lighter than what I normally use) and also when seating the bullets themselves.  Therefore in this investigation the annealing process was a success to softening the brass to retain its resizing.

See Intercooler, I told you I could fix them!

[Intercooler]

That's good news! I will spread the word to send you all the PPU brass for your "special" treatment 

[The_Shadow]

here is a link to an article on how the cartridge cases are formed and machined...Star Line products are shown.
http://www.shootingtimes.com/2011/01/04/ammunition_making_brass_101910/

another article
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2007/06/how-cartridge-brass-is-made/

Hornady Video cartridge cases start at 1:39 in...

[joshuamalezi]

I posted about my concerns a while back. I stuck to my decision not to reload the PPU crap. I have only used new Starline brass so far.
http://10mm-firearms.com/reloading-10mm-ammo/reloading-prvi-partazan-brass/

[Geeman]

If you want to reload PPU, it a personal decision.  I want it to be an informed decision.

As to annealing,  that process is for the case necks, not the case head.  Softening the case head is not a good thing.  I must admit I've never annealed a handgun cartridge because the distance from the neck to the base is so small.  Maybe I could have used a shallow pan with water to keep the base cooler.  Even though I commonly anneal rifle cartridges, I doubt I'll use it on handgun brass with Starline as reasonable as it is.

Now, back to PPU.  Look at the failure of my case.  Case head separation that shouldn't be annealed to begin with.  Was my bullet set back in the case?  I can't prove it one way or the other.  I will say that the remaining loaded PPU from that loading tore down with seemingly normal neck tension.

It only takes one bad case to result in a very bad situation.  Poor quality control can be catastrophic.  PPU defines poor quality control in my mind.  I won't be loading any PPU cases again.

Greg

[The_Shadow]

Greg, I'm with you on your decision on not reusing the PPU brass.    The only reason I annealed these two were to show that the cases being stiff, brittle and not as malleable as they should be.  By annealing them, that would restore the malleability at least as much to hold the bullet tight enough.  Just an educational learning experiment!

Nothing can correct poor alloy or stampings that were done without proper annealing to allow the metal to be shaped without stressing it in some area.  If the case head was stressed (started to tear instead of flow) it may have had micro stress fractures while being stamped.

[Geeman]

  Just an educational learning experiment!

I'm glad to hear that. 

Greg

[Hunter]

I tried to reload some PPU brass but I could not get the case mouth to hold enough tension to keep the bullet from setting way back in the case during the first chambering.

[wadcutter]

I had the same problem with ppu Tokarev brass. I couldn't get any neck tension with the darned things even without flaring the case mouth. I could push the bullet into the case with my thumb and index finger even with a hellacious crimp and these were the Hornady .309 bullets. I've never had a problem with Starline or S&B Tok brass, but this privi garbage is the absolute worst brass I've ever dealt with and it's a shame because it's so cheap. I did a google search to see if anyone else had a problem with this brass and found this thread.  I ended up throwing away 300 tok cases and 250 10mmn cases. If you just want to shoot cheap ammo I guess it' ok in that it goes boom when you pull the trigger, but if you buy it thinking you're going to reload the brass forget about it. You can get severe bullet setback and possibly damage your guns or yourselves with this junk.

[elmo123]

I had some PPU 10mm brass that was loaded twice with mild loads bulge, this stuff is garbage.

I fired some PPU factory 44 magnum loads and the brass was thinner than american made casings. After resizing it .430" jacketed bullets were loose inside the casing after seating. I scrapped it along with the 10mm brass.

[Seabeeken]

I loaded some PPU 223 brass a few months ago. I used loads that I had used in other commercial brass so I know the load was fine. After firing, the primers fell out of the case. Apparently, the brass is very soft. No other case, commercial or military had this happen. I threw all of it in the recycle bin.

[halfglocked]

Wow and to think I almost  bought a few boxes than cheaper than dirt at the cost  of sub 18.00 for a box of 50 my intention  was to reuse the brass ,thanks you for the warning  $

[Pumpkinheaver]

I just loaded 50 rounds using PPU brass. Looks like I need to get the bullet puller out!!!

[The_Shadow]

I suffered a casing blow out today with the 380ACP and guess what the case that blew was a MFS the first that I shot was a PPU go figure!   Had I found that first spent PPU casing I wouldn't have shot the second cartridge...