what are your 1911 setups?

[Deerslayer]

I wish I had the computer skills to post pics. Shadow I readied your how to but I don't have the know how. Hopefully if my daughter comes to visit and I think about it I will have her set it up. I sure do enjoy looking at all these sweet 1911. Keep the post coming guys.

[Mike_Fontenot]

Yes thats is what I am saying, I have used my .45acp Wilson mags in my 10mm Kimber since I bought it 10yrs ago and have over 5000rds or so through it as of now.
[...]

Thanks for all that info ... very interesting, and surprising (to me).

I think all of the Wilson mags are "out" for me, though, because I need a flat-bottomed mag (no base-plate) ... I carry my Eclipse in a homemade vertical under-the-shirt shoulder holster (full-time, from pajamas-on until pajamas-off), and I can't tolerate any increase in the length of the handle at all.

I've been using 10mm Checkmate 9-round mags, although I only load them to 8 rounds (I had some failures to feed the top round when the mag was loaded with 9 rounds).  They've been working well, loaded with 8 rounds, but on my last range trip, I got a nose-up jam on the last round of one of my carry mags.  I've watched as I slowly chamber a single round from the mag, and so far I can't see how that malfunction could possibly happen, but it did.  The Checkmate followers have a small "bump" which engages the rear groove of the casing, right before the cartridge moves forward enough to be released from the mag, so slowly-fed movement DOES hang-up momentarily at that point, but it doesn't take much force from the slide to start it moving again, and the motion is smooth (and quick) after that.  I've THOUGHT that that "bump" is probably a GOOD feature, because my Kimber mags (which have no "bump", and feed completely smoothly) often allow a round to be pulled forward when the round above is feeding, and that has sometimes caused problems.  The Kimber mags also seem to have much weaker springs that all the other mags I've tried.  For the next few range trips, I'm going to do shoot mostly nearly empty mags (2, or at most 3 rounds), to see if the final-round feeding problem occurs again.  If so, I'll need to try to eliminate that problem somehow.

[harleyhopper]

Mike, are you the guy running a #30 mainspring in your Kimber?  I was Googling --1911Tuner 10mm-- and found several threads concerning the proper setup in regards to recoil/mainspring setups.

My Kimber Eclipse 10mm was bought used. Unknown springs. OE, as listed in the manual, 18.5 recoil/21 main. Mine had a Wilson ShokBuf installed.  My Rock Island runs very well with a 20/22 setup. Currently, my Kimber has a 18.5 recoil/25 main Steve.

[Mike_Fontenot]

Mike, are you the guy running a #30 mainspring in your Kimber? 

A while back, I tried increasing the mainspring as much as possible (I seem to remember 28lb was the max I could find), combined with a flat-bottomed firing-pin-stop.  I didn't like the heavier trigger that gave me, and it also didn't seem to have any positive effect, as far as I could see.  To get the very light trigger I wanted, I had to go all the way down to 18lb for the mainspring.  So for a  good while now, I've been using an 18.5lb recoil spring (Wolff), and an 18lb mainspring (still with the flat-bottomed fps).  When I've tried heavier recoil springs in the past, I've always seen more jams, so I went back to the standard 18.5lb recoil spring.  I also use a very relaxed grip, with relaxed and bent wrists and elbows ... my gun seems to like that better (reduces the slide velocity a bit, I think), and I certainly prefer to shoot that way.  With the current setup, it had been flawless for the last four range trips (usually 25 rounds per session ... I shoot up my three carry mags, all with close-to-full-spec DoubleTap Nosler JHP (alternating 150gr, 180gr, and 200gr in each mag)).  But on the last range session, I had a nose-up jam on the last round of my 1st re-load mag ... a real downer ... I had thought I'd finally gotten it running completely reliably.

Mine had a Wilson ShokBuf installed.  My Rock Island runs very well with a 20/22 setup.

I've never been able to use a shok-buf, because it prevents my slidelock notch from being able to move aft of the slidelock, so I can't slingshot it to chamber a round.  Can you slingshot yours with the shok-buf?

[harleyhopper]

The shokbuf was in it when I received it from my FFL with unknown springs. I had searched and I think it was one of your threads where you were trying to reduce the brass slinging. My first outing, I was only able to shoot 32 rounds. 2 supplied Metalform mags. I shot both mags twice at 8 rounds apiece. Brass was everywhere. From 30 ft to 2 actually hitting me in the head. Before going out again, I had Googled 1911tuner and found his spring advise. On my 2nd outing, I took  a 18.5 and a 20 recoil and I had installed a 25 main. No shokbuf. I shot almost 2 boxes of Remington 180gr. I could not tell anydifference in the guns performance from one spring to the other and also in regards to the brass slinging other than it seemed to be more consistent. I don't mind if it slings 15-20 ft as long as it is pretty consistent. What I did notice after thoroughly cleaning, installing a series 70 EGW firing pin stop with just the edge stoned, the #25 main spring, and running either of the 2 recoil springs was the last round(these are 8 rd mags) jamed standing straight up with the slide catching it in the middle of the case. Remember, the 1st outing limited to 32 rds was flawless. Probably just didn't shoot it enough. Anyway, another Google showed that that particuliar jam was magazine springs. Calling Kimber and giving my serial#, my gun was built in  3/10/06. I called Wolff springs and have some Colt Delta mag springs coming. Probably be here tomorrow. I also should be getting a shipment of Ga Arms 10mm ammo delivered tomorrow. I'm sure the Boss Lady will question all this.......

Steve

[Mike_Fontenot]

The shokbuf was in it when I received it from my FFL with unknown springs.

I couldn't tell from your post whether you are still using the shok-buf.  Were you (or are you) able to slingshot the slide with the shok-buf?  (Or, did you immediately take it out, and never try to slingshot with it?)

[...]
What I did notice after thoroughly cleaning, installing a series 70 EGW firing pin stop with just the edge stoned, the #25 main spring, and running either of the 2 recoil springs was the last round(these are 8 rd mags) jamed standing straight up with the slide catching it in the middle of the case.

That sounds like what I saw, exactly.  The recovered round was very slightly shorter than my other rounds ... the bullet was set very slightly deeper.  But I suspect that happened as a result of the jam, rather than causing the jam.

Anyway, another Google showed that that particular jam was magazine springs. [...] I called Wolff springs and have some Colt Delta mag springs coming.

Interesting ... did that Google search imply that the problem is too-weak springs?  Are the Colt springs stronger?  I ordered, and just received, a Wilson mag spring and follower (from Midway), that is supposed to work (without or without the Wilson follower) in a metalform mag (which is who makes Kimber mags, I think).  I may try that, if I see that problem again ... I'm going to shoot a lot of 2-round mags on my next range trip, just so I can get more testing of the feeding of that last round.  The springs in the Checkmate mags I've been using are stronger than the springs in the Kimber mags ... in fact, right after I bought those Checkmate mags, I had a jam chambering the first round when I loaded the mag to the full 9 rounds (too much upward pressure on the top cartridge, I think), so I've just been loading them to 8 rounds since then ... perhaps it would work with 9 now, since the constant 8-round state has probably weakened the springs slightly.

I spent some time loading both the Checkmate mags and the Kimber mags with 8 rounds, and then just slowly pushing the top round forward with my finger (with the mag out of the gun), and watching for any tendency (especially on the last round) for the cartridge to flip nose-up when it gets released by the mag.  The Checkmate DID show more nose-up motion on the last round, but the surprising thing (to me) was that the Kimber mag showed MUCH MORE ... the last round consistently flipped 180 degrees!

I then tried loading one round in the Checkmate mag, inserted it into the gun, and then SLOWLY allowed the slide to move forward, while carefully watching for any tendency for the cartridge to go nose-up ... it never did ... when moving that slowly, the rim of the cartridge catches on the little bump in the Checkmate follower (as intended, I think), but when I relax my hold on the slide slightly, the slide suddenly frees up and the cartridge always quickly slides right into the chamber.

I then tried to do the same thing while allowing the slide to move slightly faster (although still VERY slow compared to when the slide cycles after firing), and the chambering was always as smooth as butter.  That test made it seem impossible to get a nose-up jam.  I can't see how it can possibly happen (but I know it can, and did, happen).  A complete mystery to me.  I sure wish I could have seen a high-speed movie of the cycling when I got the nose-up jam ... I have a feeling that there might be some surprising and unexpected things going on, that just don't occur at slow slide speed.  I've also never had a jam when I chamber the first round (with only one round in the mag), like I do every time I clean the gun and put it back into service ... that supports my suspicion that something is happening during the super-fast cycling of real firing that just doesn't happen when slingshotting the first round into the chamber (or when manually moving the slide forward) ... maybe the slide is bouncing off the rear stop, and going forward faster than it would due to spring pressure alone?

[harleyhopper]

I've shot around 200 rounds in the last couple of weeks in this Eclipse. After shooting the 1st outing at 32 rounds(limited in time) and then cleaning, that's when I found the shok buf. I removed it. Then I shot 2 boxes. These 100 rds had the 25 mainspring and varied between the 18.5 and 20 recoil---no shok buf.
  Today, I said "what the heck" and put the shok buf in. Along with the 18.5/25 spring setup. I shot a box. 2 of the 50 spent cases landed at my feet and they were mangled. The rest of the brass were anywhere from 10 ft to around 25 ft. One of the guys over on the 1911 forum asked if I had a shok buf. Then he went on to suggest a flat bottom firing pin stop and possibly a heavier spring.
After cleaning, and removing the shok buf, I thought I'd set it up close to my Rock 10mm. It runs a 20/22 setup. The brass using it is in a somewhat neat circle of about 8ft at a distance of 15ft. Doesn't take long to collect at all. I didn't have another 22 mainspring but did have a 23. So that is the way it will be tried on the next outing. A 20#recoil/#23 main.

The Wolff mag springs for a Delta Elite came in today as well as 500 rounds of Ga Arms ammo. The mag springs are way longer and stronger than what I pulled out.  So, we'll throw that in the mix as well. Might should have waited on the mag sorings but didn't see any harm going ahead.
I can always put all the original springs back in. My Rock wasn't this hard to dial in. Steve

[cgreth]

Hi, been reading the threads, first time posting.

Proud owner of a Kimber Custom Eclipse II 10mm.  Like other posts here have mentioned; I had a shok buf on mine and could not slingshot the slide.  Ended up removing it.  The slide stop did have a tendency 3 times in 300+ rounds to lock prematurely.
Determined the cartridge was nudging it up slightly.  Took a small swiss file and removed a very small amount of material from the point where it engages on the follower. 
Polished the filed area with a dermal tool/felt wheel with Flitz.  Slide lock problem disappeared.  Currently running stock everything with the exception of Operator II VZ Grips. 
So far have put thru about 1500 rounds and with no issues except the aforementioned slide stop issue.

[harleyhopper]

Hey cgreth. Was your Eclipse used? Reason I'm asking is because when I called Kimber customer service to find out my date of manufacture with the serial#, I asked them about the shok buf. They said they didn't recommend them. Steve

[cgreth]

Brand new.  I had one on order for about 3-4 months from my LGS.  I was in another store one day looking for powder and happened to glance down and they had a new one in the case.  Couldn't resist.

I had added the shok-buff during my initial cleaning and lube before heading out to the range.  I run them on my SA Loaded with no issues.  After comparing the Kimber slide and the SA slide, I see that the channel milled into the Kimber slide for the slide stop to get disengaged by is almost 2x longer than the SA channel.  The shok-buff reduces the rearward travel of the slide just enough to cause the slide stop to not disengage.

By the way for the premature slide lock issue, I had contacted Kimber and they sent a new slide stop.  I ran that and had the same problem.  That is when I decided to modify the original slide stop.

[gandog56]

My three 10's
Top to bottom
Dan Wesson RZ=10 Razorback
RIA Tac II 10mm
Fusion Firearms long slide hunter

The springs are whatever the makers put in them. The Fusion came with a set of different poundage springs to fine tune it, but the one that was installed works fine.

[sstewart]

Nice !!!

[The_Shadow]

ganddog56, that Fusion has to be a delight to shoot!  They are looking a little lonely, you may need another one!  LOL

[gandog56]

ganddog56, that Fusion has to be a delight to shoot!  They are looking a little lonely, you may need another one!  LOL

Come on, they used to be just twins. 

[Deerslayer]

Colt Delta Elite. Wilson Combat multi-Comp bushing compensator. Stainless bullet proof spring plug. Stainless Recoil spring guide & 22# recoil spring. I swapped out Colts original double spring with single and it works so much better.  And of course Crimson Trace laser grips.

[attachment deleted by admin]