embarrassed to carry non full power

[4949shooter]

Awe, there's no difference. Here's a friend shooting a 9mm and a 10mm. That's only 1mm, folks, how much difference can there be?


A Sig P226:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63Kr3Z9T7Dc


He had never fired a 10mm before:
Hang on, dude!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZYoZSLD2yc

Ed looks like he is limpwristing.

Novice shooter?

No, he's a former Marine, and an excellent shot. I used to look like that when I was shooting Bullseye competition, so I didn't say anything. One hand & very light grip. And tons of time between shots! They even have that competition anymore or has it gone by the way of morse code in ham radio?

Oh okay....he isn't accustomed to a two hand hold. Gotcha.

[StockIIBoss]

Oh okay....he isn't accustomed to a two hand hold. Gotcha.

I dunno. I just watched him making one big hole at 15 yds and kept my mouth shut. 

[4949shooter]

I see what you are saying though, he is an accomplished bullseye shooter and I don't mean to take anything away from him. The point of your post was the difference in 9 and 10, and I think he would do better firing a 10mm pistol with a two hand hold and wrist lock.

Just my thoughts, and this is up for discussion since that is what we do here.

[gandog56]

Well, why buy a 10mm if you are only going to shoot .40 S&W power stuff in it?

[captaintrips]

Well, why buy a 10mm if you are only going to shoot .40 S&W power stuff in it?

Don't think anyone said they ONLY shoot the watered down stuff.

I want a firearm that will shoot a 180 grain JHP at 950fps....then 3 seconds later shoot one around 1300fps.

[sqlbullet]

Well, why buy a 10mm if you are only going to shoot .40 S&W power stuff in it?

I hear this alot on this board, and on other 10mm boards.

Simple.

Full power 10mm loads are hard on guns.  They are hard on brass.  They are hard on wallets.  And they are hard on joints.  Guns, brass and money can be replaced.  Joints can't.

I almost never need full power 10mm.  I certainly don't need it to chew up potatoes or clay pigeons with my kids.  I don't need to to practice marksmanship. I don't need 200 grains at 1270 fps to enjoy a morning in the desert with my gun buddies.

In fact, I hope I NEVER need it.  Because all the scenarios I would need it in are under dire circumstances in which I would prefer not to find myself.

But, I may need it.  So, I spend my scarce and limited handgun budget on the most versatile handgun round that is commonly chambered.

That is why you buy a 10mm even if you don't mean to shoot full power 10mm auto.

[pacapcop]

He is holding pistol in a "Cup in Saucer" manner. I subscribe to the 600 ft lb rule and over. Light bullet and hard hitting.

[gandog56]

Well, why buy a 10mm if you are only going to shoot .40 S&W power stuff in it?

I hear this alot on this board, and on other 10mm boards.

Simple.

Full power 10mm loads are hard on guns.  They are hard on brass.  They are hard on wallets.  And they are hard on joints.  Guns, brass and money can be replaced.  Joints can't.

I almost never need full power 10mm.  I certainly don't need it to chew up potatoes or clay pigeons with my kids.  I don't need to to practice marksmanship. I don't need 200 grains at 1270 fps to enjoy a morning in the desert with my gun buddies.

In fact, I hope I NEVER need it.  Because all the scenarios I would need it in are under dire circumstances in which I would prefer not to find myself.

But, I may need it.  So, I spend my scarce and limited handgun budget on the most versatile handgun round that is commonly chambered.

That is why you buy a 10mm even if you don't mean to shoot full power 10mm auto.

Im not sure lighter weight bullets are better for guns, since they usually just cram more powder in a lighter bullet. The action of a semi needs a minimum power to cycle correctly. Also I don't see lighter bullets being much if any cheaper in factory ammo. And I reload them, anyways. 155 grain bullets are only 15 bucks less per 1000 than my favorite 185 grain bullets. So that would make every round about 2 cents more per cartridge. But wait, I use less powder for that heavier bullet. One grain per bullet less. Which means I can actually load 53 MORE bullets per pound.

[sqlbullet]

Maybe I missed something.  When did bullet weight come into play?  I thought we were talking about full power (Max handloads, Underwood, Buffalo Bore) vs the slightly above 40 S&W power level of most factory/practice/bulk ammo you can buy.

Not that it changes any of my statements.  Show me any full power 10mm load of any bullet weight, and I will show you a load that is more expensive to buy, load, shoot than one that is 15-20% less velocity/energy.  And, it won't be any more reliable either. 

Might be less reliable in fact.  We see guys here buy a Glock 20, run it fine with some generic load, then have issues with Underwood level loads.  Issues that are often resolved with a heavier recoil spring in their Glock.

I am not telling anyone what they ought to do.  Each person ought to use their 10mm how they see fit.  I am just answering the question of why I buy a 10mm and then proceed to shoot mostly "hot" 40 S&W level loads in it.  And why others might too.

[pacapcop]

I can clarify my statement regarding full power 10mm. My initial intrest was to have magnum power in a semi auto loader. The lighter bullet comment is only mentioned as I see it's use in populated areas as I am in. I hope that clears a misunderstanding on the light bullet mentioning. I like to shoot them all when i can.

[Intercooler]

   I shoot the range and like them all. On a note though I sold off most of my Underwood TMJ's because I think that beats things up more than needed to punch excessive holes in paper.

[gandog56]

Maybe I missed something.  When did bullet weight come into play?  I thought we were talking about full power (Max handloads, Underwood, Buffalo Bore) vs the slightly above 40 S&W power level of most factory/practice/bulk ammo you can buy.

Well, then back to my original question. Why buy a 10mm if you are only going to shoot .40 cal equivalent loads out of it. Just buy a .40 cal and be done with it.

[StockIIBoss]

Maybe I missed something.  When did bullet weight come into play?  I thought we were talking about full power (Max handloads, Underwood, Buffalo Bore) vs the slightly above 40 S&W power level of most factory/practice/bulk ammo you can buy.

Well, then back to my original question. Why buy a 10mm if you are only going to shoot .40 cal equivalent loads out of it. Just buy a .40 cal and be done with it.

10mm gives me a testosterone rush.
I don't want to lower myself to FBI standards.
I like to say "220 hard cast."
And my No. 1 reason for not shooting a .40... "eweeee"

[The_Shadow]

There is no reason to be embarrassed to carry loads less than full power 10mm, more than likely they will work as intended even at the 40S&W level.

Well part of the fun of having the 10mm is the fact that from Mild to Wild its all fun and very real!
Rolling my own, allows me to make what I want and to suit my needs!  Having conversion barrels allows me the benefit of shooting 10mm, 40S&W, 357Sig and 9x25Dillon.  For a while, I was scoring so much 40S&W brass, it was worth utilizing the brass for practice and proficiency loads, saving wear and tear on my 10mm brass.

When I carry my G-29 it is stuffed with 200gr XTP or Speer 200 Gold Dots @ 1200 fps.

However in some settings, close quarters, Face to Face encounters, in crowded areas I carry the G-30 with 185 Rem Golden Sabers or Speer 230 Gold Dots.

[pacapcop]

With the G20 Gen 3 I pop in the Lone Wolf 10/40 barrel to warm up. It's been reliable as all.