First press and equipment reccomendations

[tommac919]

snip...Case gauge...I thought things were going well till I got Glocked brass!  They were expanded very far down the casing at the extractor cut even, but using the case gauge showed that even the RCBS sizing die was not touching that area, ...snip...!

I use a stock glock and standard Lee sizer/deprimer for just 10mm ( not 40/10 )... the cases fit 100% in the gauge after sizing... But I guess it may have to do with the lower power loading and maybe the dia of my glock chamber. ( fairly new g3 made in 09-13 ).
I've heard they've gotten better/more support over the years.

[Geeman]

Need to be able to knock down rounds that are too close to the edge so you don't feel tempted to send them down range.  Inertia hammer type are reasonable.

Greg

[tommac919]

snip..  Inertia hammer type are reasonable.

yes, have used it often enough! 

[The_Shadow]

snip...Case gauge...I thought things were going well till I got Glocked brass!  They were expanded very far down the casing at the extractor cut even, but using the case gauge showed that even the RCBS sizing die was not touching that area, ...snip...!

I use a stock glock and standard Lee sizer/deprimer for just 10mm ( not 40/10 )... the cases fit 100% in the gauge after sizing... But I guess it may have to do with the lower power loading and maybe the dia of my glock chamber. ( fairly new g3 made in 09-13 ).
I've heard they've gotten better/more support over the years.

I deal with many range brass, stuff shot from many different pistols and even the HK MP-5 10mm over my years of dealing with the 10mm and even the 40S&W, 357Sig and 9x25Dillon.  The chamber of the S&W is way tighter than any Glock including mine.  The LWD 357Sig and 9x25Dillon conversion barrels are almost as tight as the Lyman case gauge I own.  When dealing with chambers this tight you will see the effects.  "Pass-Thru" sizing has had many benefits as it reconditions my brass, yes it is yet another step but it has been worth the effort and even tightening primer pockets just a little as I perform the procedure.

Best benefit is more reliable feeding...

[tommac919]

<and even tightening primer pockets >

now that I haven't thought of...

And yes, the glocks are very loose, Known fact.

[BT8850]

Sorry for the delay, haven't had enough online time as i'd like, I've been working some overtime to get some cash together for this stuff/the glock. Lots of great information and advice, thanks for the replies so far! I've read them all and am absorbing all the info, hope no one is offended by me being too lazy to individually quote and reply! 

I have been getting antsy and want to take some primers out of some 40sw brass I have to get them ready to clean. Does anyone appose the punch/ wood block/hammer method for removing primers until I get a press squared away or is it not a good idea?

Also, what do you guys use to clean your brass? What point in time do you usually clean brass? ie before/after depriming/sizing?

[tommac919]

<what do you guys use to clean your brass? What point in time do you usually clean brass? ie before/after depriming/sizing?>

You'll get diff answers with this...

But, for me and target rounds , I just dump them in a vibrating hopper filled with corn cob ( cheap from pet supply ), let them run a few hours and remove.  I check the cases to make sure no cob inside and condition.

After check they go in the cleaned/fired prev bucket. I don't clean the primer pockets, just run them on the progressive press.

For the few rounds I make up special, its usu with new brass... or I'll clean them with corn cob and brass cleaner dumped in, deprime and then also clean the primer pockets. 

[The_Shadow]

If you want to deprime with a punch, you will need to drill a relief hole in the block of wood (1/4" deep at least) to allow the primer a place to go.  If you want to get fancy, get a spade bit about the size of the case rim  0.425" or slightly bigger and make a shallow pocket about 3/32" deep to allow you case to center in, then drill the deeper hole for the primer to drop into in that center.

I have used old screwdrivers and even long screws to make depriming punches, be careful as they need to be strong but if too tight they can get stuck in the flash hole.  CCI and Speer brass may have smaller flash holes!

I use a vibrating tumbler with corn cob media to clean my brass, adding a few drops of (1/4 teaspoon) of charcoal lighter fluid (helps cut the carbon) let it run prior to placing brass inside, and few 1" squares of blue shop towel will collect the dust and debris.  I was using well used dryer sheets but one that wasn't used well enough made a gooey mess.  3 to 4 hours usually cleans very well.

[BT8850]

Seems that you guys are in agreement on the corn cob/vibratory setup and have a similar process. Seems that thats about the most popular, i'd assume probably the cheapest also. Never would have thought of the shop towels, interesting. I was hoping someone would be using the stainless steel pin/wet tumbling method so I could pry their secrets. Can't decide if the higher start up cost would be worth it. 

Tommac what brass cleaner do you use? Everyone loves super shiny brass, myself included!

I have used old screwdrivers and even long screws to make depriming punches

Doesnt sounds like too bad of an idea, i've got a couple laying around with broken or twisted ends etc. that I could make use of.

I've taken a couple of primers out before, just used a long 1/16" punch and set it primer down on a piece of c channel that had a big enough hole in it and knocked em out. I wasn't sure if this somewhat crude method had any setbacks or frown upons. One was a piece of CBC/magtech .308 brass and it had like a crimped primer. From my small amount of research you only really see crimped primers on military stuff?

Shadow Thats interesting about the flash holes, do you see alot of variation from brand to brand or is it mostly just with CCI and Speer? I have a fair amount of CCI, speer not so much, most of the stuff that I plan to work with at the time being will be Federal.

[The_Shadow]

The worst seem to be the CCI and Speer 357Sig with the smallest flash holes but have seen others cartridges calibers from them.  You will want to be sure you have no berdan primed cases, (two small flash holes offset) these can break your depriming pins!

LEE still makes some hand tools/dies for various cartridges that do not use in a press to size and load with for many cartridges, this includes a steel base cup to set the casings in to deprime with a punch and hammer, those punches for rifle are the proper size for the insides of the case necks, to straighten them and make them round from the inside during the depriming operation.

[tommac919]

what brass cleaner do you use? Everyone loves super shiny brass, myself included!

Its a Red Rouge brass polish... when I want them real shiny, I throw in a spoonful ( with the cob corn )... prob any mild abrasive powder would work.

[BT8850]

Good to know on the red rouge, i've already got some for my buffing wheel.

Also that's cool to know that they make stuff for guys that want to do it ALL as much by hand as possible. Interesting.

With regard to the Berdan primers, I'm sure they can be a pain when one slips through. When scouring the ground at my range I usually mistakenly pick up some sort of surplus 9mm cases that have Berdan primers in em. Idk if they are brass or not, but I pitch them any how! The sealant around the primers usually gives them away.

Another question I had is at what point in time do you guys inspect and sort your brass as far as good enough to reload or "scrap"? Before/after cleaning? before/after Sizing? And what types of cases do you typically throw out? I'd assume ones that can't be conditioned with the pass through sizing, obviously cracked or split cases are no good, what about ones that have been stepped on etc?

[The_Shadow]

Another question I had is at what point in time do you guys inspect and sort your brass as far as good enough to reload or "scrap"? Before/after cleaning? before/after Sizing? And what types of cases do you typically throw out? I'd assume ones that can't be conditioned with the pass through sizing, obviously cracked or split cases are no good, what about ones that have been stepped on etc?

Everytime I pick up or touch a piece brass, as it is worked in any operation with the dies (look listen and feel), it is inspected!
Hey but I am anal about my handloading!    SAFETY FIRST! 

[BT8850]

Good point, Can't ever be too careful! Nothing wrong with being anal about reloading, given the potential for tradgedy surrounding the act.

Another question I have (they pile up fast), what would be a good powder to start with? Shadow I know you've worked with quite a few. I'll initially be loading 10mm and 40sw so a powder that would work well for both medium powered 10mm practice loads and similar 40sw loads would be great. Also a powder that would measure well and get me the most rounds per pound for practice with the 1006 and soon to have G20. I don't know much about powder but am slowly learning through the pull downs.

Would like to load 180g bullets to about 1050-1100fps.   

[The_Shadow]

The powder I have used for a long time and still good for me is Blue Dot...
In 10mm for the 180 gr. 10.2 grains to 10.4 grains are great target loads COL 1.2500"
In 40S&W for the 180 gr. 8.2 grains to 8.4 grains are great target loads COL 1.1250"

Top end loads can be had with Blue Dot, LongShot, IMR800X, Power Pistol, AA#9, AA#7, a NEW Powder showing is the "NEW CFE from Hodgdon, but I haven't had the chance to work with it as of yet.  It is on my list to test its performance!
There are many loads of differing potential and some of the ones listed in the pull-down section are above most all manuals.

The most flexible manual I could suggest is the Lyman 49th to cover a broad range of bullet types and weights.
The Speer manuals are geared toward their own bullets but I have used that data with many other bullet makes in the same weights. 

Go to each powder makers websites and download their data in the PDF formats and write them for a hard copy to be mailed out to you.  This with be great reference and up to date info!