First press and equipment reccomendations

[BT8850]

So I've got a good amount of once fired assorted handgun and rifle brass that I've accumulated because I plan to start into reloading one day. I'd like to in the mean time get a small easy to use press and the equipment needed to deprime my cases and get them cleaned. I've searched around and it seems everyone has their personal preference for their equipment be it because of cost, quality, consistency, etc. I'd just like to get some reccomendations from you all about what would be a good investment as far as a small dedicated (for the time being) depriming press, decapping dies, and  cleaning methods.

From what I've seen/read, for cleaning I like the idea of the wet tumbling/stainless steel pin media process and that's about as much as I've decided I'd like to get.

Thoughts? Any information is appreciated.

[The_Shadow]

I usually recommend a strong single stage press like the RCBS Rock Chucker Kit, it has most of what you need especially complimented with quality manual.  However many other makes are good as well.  I still us a RCBS Jr. press for many task especially seating and crimping because of the great feedback I feel as I use the press, I can feel whats going on as I stroke the press.

If you intend to do rifle handloading the effort required to fully-resize casings calls for a heavy duty press with compound leverage to get the job done without working you or your loading table too hard.

Be sure the press you get has enough opening to cycle the longest casings and loaded cartridges, there are some strictly dedicated to pistol ammo.

I use RCBS dies for 10mm and 40S&W but you can't beat a great set of Dillon dies for their design either.  I use the LEE FCD for "pass-through" sizing, some use the Redding GRX die (carbide is best). http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=XcUh9LgqGV0 This reconditions the brass in areas that the normal sizing process doesn't reach.  Warning it doesn't fix "SMILE" damaged cases! 

If you have questions don't hesitate to ask! 

[sqlbullet]

Like The_Shadow, I have a Rock Chucker, and it came in an RCBS kit that included a scales, powder throw, manual, and a variety of tools.  It is a rock solid press.

I also have one of these little cheap Lee C presses.  I probably use it more than any other press I own.  It is lightweight and cheap, and while it will full length size rifle brass, it is a chore.  But, for flaring, seating, crimping, it is really useful.  I have mine mounted to a piece of 1X4 and it gets taken to the range, or living room, or where ever I want to work.  Also works great for decapping and push through sizing(of pistol brass).

[BT8850]

Thanks for the input guys. Like you've both mentioned, everything I've read about the Rock Chucker has been very good and it looks to be built pretty well 'bulletproof' (lol). sqlbullet I'm glad you mentioned the Lee, a search on amazon turned up the model 90045 for $26.20. The price is very attactive for my current project but being cheap, paired with it not being supported the whole way around like the Rock chucker, made me think it wasn't worth it. I'm glad to hear yours works out so well for you. Is the base (red part) on yours steel or aluminum?

Another possibly dumb question that I have is do generally all presses accept the same dies/shell holders or do you have to use Lee dies/holders on Lee presses, RCBS on RCBS, etc. etc? Also, any personal preferences on brand of shell holders?

Lots of things to think about, thanks! I'd love to drop 500 bucks or so and get everything I need right now but we all know how it goes . . .

[Caneman]

ditto on the recommendation for the RCBS Rockchucker kit, best way to get up and running imo, the kit has everything you need to get started, including the manual, but you need to get dies components... even if you get a progressive press later you will still use your single stage imo

[sqlbullet]

MIne is aluminium as the brits say.  And, I am sure it would not stand up to a steady diet of resizing my 30-06 brass full length for my garands.  But for jobs that are low pressure/work, the open front is really quite nice.

[tommac919]

Buy a good press the first time as failure to do so will result in buying a second ( and spending twicw as much ).

I have a 20+yr old rock crush unit and it's still going strong... starting off with a single stage is good to learn on and will do pistol AND rifle.


<that I have is do generally all presses accept the same dies/shell holders > 

Most I've seen are standard and interchangable.

[BT8850]

Alright. Thanks for all the input. There is a gun show next weekend that I'll be attending and there is usually a host of reloading equipment at it so hopefully I'll be able to find a good deal, possibly on a Rock chucker or the like in good used condition. I would just go ahead and buy the small Lee on amazon but after thought, tommac you are right, I'm going to need an all duty press eventually so I might as well spend themoney and get a nice one from the start.

It's good to know that dies interchange, I was very curious.

sqlbullet, also good to know. The largest rifle ill be loading for in the conceivable future is .308. Sounds like the plan of buying something heavier duty from the start is a pretty good one.

On amazon they have the carbide 4 die set for .40sw/10mm for less than 50 bucks. I think I'll also acquire that and a shell holder set so that If a nice used press turns up at the show next weekend I'll be ready to knock out some primers! It comes with one of the factory crimp dies so I'll be able to take the_shadow's guidance and turn it into a sizer 

[BT8850]

Great video link btw shadow, thanks! I enjoyed watching it. The guy looks like he has a pretty nice set up.

[The_Shadow]

BT8850, You're welcome, I have helped many people get started in this hobby and have been loading for 35 years.  I have also learn things that has even helped me make even better ammo.

Have a look at this kit and read about all the stuff that comes with it, before you buy a used setup piece by piece.  This kit sometimes is on sale for under $300 and has a $50 rebate from RCBS...If it were me I'd wait for the sale price and the rebate...
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/937051/rcbs-rock-chucker-supreme-master-single-stage-press-kit

Here is the rebate, from RCBS. http://www.rcbs.com/pdf/RC399_2014RCBSrebate_FINAL.PDF

Here is a Lyman kit http://www.opticsplanet.com/lyman-crusher-expert-kit-quot-deluxe-quot.html

So take these things into consideration as you shop around.  Good luck!

[tommac919]

The kits can be a good way to get the most for yr money  ( esp with a rebate/sale)...

But, out of that kit I'd keep in mind a couple extra items, pick them up when you can. ( you already mentioned tumbler )
1) caliper  - not expensive ( prob about $30 ) but needed for proper measurment
2) digital scale -  I find it so much easier, esp needed is one that can zero out ( to weigh a case with powder and result is powder weight )
3) a max case gauge - yes you can use a barrel, but a max gauge ( as in the vid ) is handy and made to the specs of the case size

While waiting to collect all, READ! and ask!

[Caneman]

^^^ yes, absolutely put those on the list when you get the money, and i would also add a chronograph as well

[BT8850]

Thanks again for the heads up Shadow, everyone loves rebates/saving money. Comparing the Lyman and RCBS kits, I like the fact that the case trimmer comes with the lyman, and also with the Lyman i'm not paying for things I already have or can easily make ie allen wrench tool and cartridge holder. The RCBS comes with the hand priming tool, do you guys use one extensively?

Also, as far as weighing powder, would you reccomend solely a digital scale or the balance type scale? I ultimately want to know how to use both so I'm not relying just one. If digital, any reccomendations on an accurate reasonably priced one? Shadow I know you use one alot as shown in the pull downs, are you happy with it?

As far as caliper, that's something I do have and it seems to be working fairly consistently for the things I have measured.

Max case gauge is something I may be able to get for free, at my job we have an extremely large machine shop and I have a few people that work up there that owe me favors  well see how that works out when the time comes. If I do have it made, I'll post pictures.

Lastly, reading on the subject sounds great, I try to research just about everything I do before I jump in. That said, any recommendations? As always, free or low priced quality literature is a bonus!

[The_Shadow]

Hand priming tool is a blessing for many of my projects, I have several...RCBS, LEE hand held types.

Scales, I don't trust many of the electronics based on communications and personal experiences.  I trust my RCBS 5-10 balance beam for 35 years, comparing to my digital they both agree when the digital is stable.  I have a cheap Frankford Arsenal digital and I know it can drift with time, it's limitations is such that it only reads out the even numbered tents, 0.0, 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8.   Now I will say it is great at finding the unknown weights faster, such as actual bullet weights, unknown powder charge weights, casing weights.

Caliper, you can get the Stainless Steel digitals at Harbor freight for reasonable prices sometimes $10 on sale with readouts to the 0.0000" or 0.0005" plenty good enough for handloading.  Even the cheap plastic ones that come with the kits are useable for reference if you understand their shortcomings with the dial indicator.

Case gauge...I thought things were going well till I got Glocked brass!  They were expanded very far down the casing at the extractor cut even, but using the case gauge showed that even the RCBS sizing die was not touching that area, because of the inner radius of the carbide ring and the space occupied by the shell holders.  Answer for me was using the LEE FCD with the just removed as a "pass-Thru" die system to recondition this issue.


I don't remember seeing a loading manual with the Lyman kit, Lyman has good manuals but the Rock Chucker Kit comes with a great manual even though some loading data is limited to Speer bullets, it has worked with equal weight bullets from other makers.  The Speer Manual 14 has 1150 pages of info.

Right now on the magazine racks where the sell gun magazines you can find the hodgdon 2014 loading manual magazine, also a great reference for $9, even though there is plenty data located at the powder manufactures websites it is great to have non-electronic publications to compare notes!

I lived without a Chronograph for years but it has become a great and useful tool in my range equipment! 

Everything cost money, you can spend tons if you want, I live on limited funds but the equipment I have gathered, some 35 years old, is still used every handloading secession!  I am one who works on the cheap, searching out deals and even used items as needed!

[tommac919]

snip...RCBS comes with the hand priming tool, do you guys use one extensively?

would you reccomend solely a digital scale or the balance type scale?
snip
Max case gauge is something I may be able to get for free, at my job we have an extremely large machine shop and I have a few people that work up there that owe me favors 
snip
try to research just about everything I do before I jump in. That said, any recommendations? As always, free or low priced quality literature is a bonus!

Some like the hand primer, some don't... remember to use it the cases have to be deprimed first anyway.  I only hand prime on a few rounds I want perfect... otherwise it's on the press.

It is good to have both scales.. the balance is slower but can be more accurate ( over lower digital scale ). Mostly I use the digital scale to check the powder drop on the progressive every 20 rounds... the zero option comes in handy as you can weight the case, zero the scale, get a powder drop and re-weigh to get the powder weight alone... down side is many ($30-50) are accurate to 2/10 of a grain so your working with a +/-.... not a problem when making target low power loads.  For high end loads, each one gets weighed on the balance scale for safety.

As to the gauge... I picked mine up used on ebay for $12.... new they're $19-20. A set of calipers may run $60. Prob not worth the man-hours to have it made...tho go for it if free.

When you start to load, after you pick yr bullet and powder, you'll find diff loading books show different max powder loads ( older books seem to run hotter ) due to legal/powder formula changes /etc... remember most will show max loads so start 10% lower and work up the rounds ( I do 10-20 each ) each set .1 to .2 increase in powder charge so I have maybe 5 sets of rounds (10% down to max)... test this looking for pressure signs as powder amounts go up and how accurate and how fast if a chrono... don't go over max , but with some guns you'll stop below max.  Sum up-- go slow, load safe.