Slight damage to forward edge of lock-back notch ...

[Mike_Fontenot]

Happened early-on after I got my 10mm Kimber Eclipse.  I don't think it is progressively getting worse, though.  Is that caused by very fast rearward slide travel, when the slide-stop goes up into the notch, and is pulled out again, when the last round of the mag is fired?  Just my (uneducated) guess, but it seems reasonable.  Would presumably be less likely to occur with a stronger recoil spring, right?  (I started out with the stock 18.5lb spring, then went to a 20lb progressive, and finally to a 20lb Sprinco.  Stock fps most of that time, with a short stint with a flat-bottomed fps.)

[sqlbullet]

Best medicine would be a flat bottom fps with a 25 lb main spring.  A heavier recoil spring will help, but will also place more stress on the action when it goes into battery.

[Intercooler]

Are you talking about peening of the slide? Did you check your stop if so?

[Mike_Fontenot]

Best medicine would be a flat bottom fps with a 25 lb main spring.  A heavier recoil spring will help, but will also place more stress on the action when it goes into battery.

Yeah, I tried that (the heavy mainspring and flat-bottom fps), to try to reduce the distance that the brass are being thrown, and to try to reduce the firing-pin-wipe on the primer craters ... I went all the way to a 28lb mainspring ... almost impossible to rack the slide with the hammer down ... didn't help either of those problems, and I hated the heavier trigger, so I went back to my 18lb mainspring (and my wonderful 2-1/2lb trigger).  I also took out the flat-bottomed fps, because I thought that might improve my ejection reliability.  But I'm thinking of putting the flat-bottom fps back in again.

I'm also using a 20lb Sprinco recoil spring ... heaviest that they make.  I also think a heavier recoil spring (like a 22lb Wolff) MIGHT increase my FTC rate even more, because of the faster slide speed on the return (although it might help the ejection reliability).

[Mike_Fontenot]

Are you talking about peening of the slide? Did you check your stop if so?

I don't know what "peening" means, but it is just a very slight deformation of the forward edge of the notch ... not causing any problem ... I'd just like to know what caused it.  And I don't know what to check on my slide-stop ... I haven't noticed any problem on its corresponding edge, though.

[Intercooler]

Have a look in here and see if that is what you are talking about:

http://10mm-firearms.com/10mm-semi-auto-handguns/razorback-broke-today/15/

You can taper the outer edge on the slide with a file. More important is file your stop so it is either totally flat or with a slight taper to the inside instead of outside.

[Mike_Fontenot]

Have a look in here and see if that is what you are talking about:
[...]
You can taper the outer edge on the slide with a file. More important is file your stop so it is either totally flat or with a slight taper to the inside instead of outside.

It looks similar to that pic, but it's on the forward edge of the notch, not the rear edge ... it happens as the slide is moving rearward (and when the mag is empty), when the slidelock is pulled downward out of the notch.

I think your comment about the slidelock taper is saying that the edge of the slidelock that is contacting the notch should be the inside edge, not the outside edge.  Is that right?  If the notch is going to be very slightly deformed, I think I'd actually prefer that it be on the outside surface of the slide, not on the inside surface.  But in any case, I think the deformation is so slight (and non-progressive) that I can ignore it.  I'm not sure it would even be visible on a blued slide.  I'm mostly interested in it as a possible indication of excessive slide velocity as the slidelock is being pulled downward out of the notch.

[Intercooler]

You can even it or taper slight to the inside.

Also make sure it is going fully in as it should.  Everything can be improved with a file.

[Mike_Fontenot]

Everything can be improved with a file.

What kind of file do you use for that kind of work?  And where did you get it?

If I continue to get an occasional premature lockback, I may try either filing a tiny horizontal groove in the slidestop where the plunger pin rests in the down position (which probably should be started with a file with an edge, and finished with a very small cylindrical file), or else putting a tiny crater right where the plunger pin rests in the down state (but using what?).

Shooting a 1911 (especially a 10mm 1911) requires that you become an amateur gunsmith!

[Intercooler]

I would have to look up the brand but they call them half bastards or mini-files.

[Intercooler]

I have these:

http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Piece-Hobby-Carded-Length/dp/B00002N5JT

[Mike_Fontenot]

I have these:

http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Piece-Hobby-Carded-Length/dp/B00002N5JT

Thanks for posting that ... I'm going to order a set.  But I think that I'll probably decide to put a tiny circular "dimple" on the slide-stop, right where the plunger pin rests when the slidestop is in its normal down position.  That would also help prevent the slide-stop from being too easy to push out ... I like to index my trigger finger on the protruding slide-stop pin whenever I'm handling my gun, and I don't want to ever accidentally push it out when I'm racking the slide.  I'm not sure what tool to use for that, though ... I think my wife might have an appropriate bit for her dremel tool that might work ... don't want to overdo it, though.