Odd problem with RIA 10mm

[Mike_Fontenot]

When S&W was developing their 10xx series the found the the slide lock was actually bouncing, in the slow motion play back video.  They made the locking notch slightly bigger to eliminate that issue according to what I read.

That's a VERY interesting piece of information!  I hadn't heard anything about that before.  Seems like (for 1911's) either the plunger spring needs to be stronger, or the external portion or the slidelock needs to have a small notch where it contacts the plunger pin when it's in the lower position.  Anyone know if stiffer plunger springs are available anywhere?  (I wouldn't mind having more resistance to motion in both my slidestop AND in my thumb safety).

[gandog56]

I have the exact opposite problem. My Fusion Firearms 1911 the plunger is so strong its very hard to put the slide stop back in. I have to hold it back with a tiny screwdriver so I don't leave a big old idiot mark on the pistol.

[Bugs66]

Well after filing a few thousands off my slide stop and tested, still had same problem. After 2 or 3 rounds slide locks back.  So I compared a stock 1911 slide stop to the RIA.  Appears quite a bit difference in projection.  The attached photos shows .417 vs .461 for the RIA.  I function checked the 1911 slide stop in the RIA and works fine.  I filed my RIA down to .425 and will give it a try and report back.

[attachment deleted by admin]

[10mmGuy]

Mine also had the same problem. It only happened when I fire full power JHP. Was fine with FBI fmj loads put in 26# main spring, flat bottom firing pin stop, and Wilson combat slide stop. Problem solved. Didn't ping dust cover. I got lucky. Did you get yours back from armscor? What did the do to solve problem?

[sstewart]

Maybe call Armscor. I had my RIA 10mm that never locked back, even when empty, they send me a new slide stop and everything was good. This is not the same problem as you, but thinking that they would help you.

Also I have newer model and they seem to have the springs stronger now, based on others posts and I have not had issues.

[glockfoo]

Mine did the same thing I called up Rock Island armory they sent me new guide rod spring that was heavier. After that the only problem I've had is it shoots low.



give him a call they're good to work with.

[Mike_Fontenot]

I still haven't decided yet if my limp-wristing is a problem with my 10mm Kimber Eclipse Custom II (full-size, all-steel) or not. 

Just an update:  My 10mm Eclipse has been running perfectly for the last three range trips.  The problems were caused by other issues ... poorly filed extractor, ejector too long (and maybe too loose), and maybe some other stuff .  Now, it actually seems to run most reliably with the 18.5lb recoil spring that Kimber ships their 10mm guns with, AND with a very relaxed grip (contrary to all conventional wisdom).  I THINK the relaxed grip results in more of the recoil going into frame motion, with less recoil going to slide motion with respect to the frame ... i.e., it slows the rearward slide motion down a bit, which in a 10mm is a GOOD thing.  And the relatively light recoil spring also slows the forward slide motion down a bit, which is also a good thing (gives the feeding operation a little more time to happen).  That's a very welcome conclusion for me, because I MUCH prefer to shoot with a very relaxed grip.

[Bugs66]

I finally finished dialing in my RIA 10mm and thought would report in.  So after filing my slide stop as previously shown, my problem still existed.  I would shoot 3-4 rounds and the slide would lock back.  High power or standard power rounds, didn't matter.  Then by accident I discovered that if I left one round out of the magazine, it would function correctly.  ? I wasn't sure why.  I have a factory 8rd mag and 2 Tripp Research Cobra 9rd mags.  All mags behaved the same.

So I then decided to try what others have done, increase the spring force and also install the square firing pin stop.
I went with the Wolf 20lb spring:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/121962/wolff-recoil-spring-1911-government-20-lb

And EGW square firing pin stop:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/510217/egw-firing-pin-stop-oversize-1911-9mm-luger-38-super-series-80-blue

I spent about 20 minutes filing the FPS to fit using regular and Swiss files to finish.

After two range sessions, the problem seems to have been solved.  No more unexpected lock backs.  Tried full power and regular power ammo.  Tried all mags.  All good.

So not sure if the spring for FPS fixed it or both.  Just glad it is fixed.  Great gun to shoot and having a lot of fun with it.

Thanks for the suggestions and ideas!

[10mmfan]

I bought a RIA 10mm used for $500 he said it had never been fired(I now don't believe him) it came with two stock mags. First trip to the range I had countless ftf's due to nosedives, slide wouldn't lock back and numerous failures to return to battery. I ordered a couple wilson combat mags and polished the feed ramp which solved the nosedives and with the wilson mags it would lock back with one round left then wouldn't lock back with the last round.  I later discovered that my hollowpoints would bind within the mag. I ordered one tripp cobra mag to see how they work it fed my hollowpoints and locks back on a empty mag every time(I ordered more) I still had problems with returning to battery I increased the recoil spring to a 18 1/2 lb it helped but didn't solve it I disassembled the gun and just put the slide and frame together and I could feel it getting caught on the disconnector so I filed it to smooth the angle a little until I could get the slide past it with little resistance and now the gun runs flawless.

[gandog56]

I bought a RIA 10mm used for $500 he said it had never been fired(I now don't believe him) it came with two stock mags. First trip to the range I had countless ftf's due to nosedives, slide wouldn't lock back and numerous failures to return to battery. I ordered a couple wilson combat mags and polished the feed ramp which solved the nosedives and with the wilson mags it would lock back with one round left then wouldn't lock back with the last round.  I later discovered that my hollowpoints would bind within the mag. I ordered one tripp cobra mag to see how they work it fed my hollowpoints and locks back on a empty mag every time(I ordered more) I still had problems with returning to battery I increased the recoil spring to a 18 1/2 lb it helped but didn't solve it I disassembled the gun and just put the slide and frame together and I could feel it getting caught on the disconnector so I filed it to smooth the angle a little until I could get the slide past it with little resistance and now the gun runs flawless.

Hmmm, since I reload, I would probably just set those HP bullets back a bit and see if they would stop binding.

[harleyhopper]

10mmfan, you said you put an 18.5 recoil spring in. That's what most of the older ones shipped wit, according to Armscor CS. Ryan said around June/July of last yr, they were shipping 20# recoil springs. When my 18.5 spring was in, the slide was sloppy loose and was causing the reverse plug to actally bounce in and out. Damaged the plug and had slight peening on the slide pocket where the plug ears orinted. Ryan sent me a 20# spring and a plug. Solved all my problems. Steve

[10mmfan]

I had been told it was a 16lb by a local gun shop the wolff 18 1/2lb was longer and felt heavier. I got mine last January so I had an early one.

[harleyhopper]

The Armscor customer service has been very helpful. I had sent several emails with questions before I had actually received mine. And, after receiving and shooting it, some of the problems were solved by some very helpful guys on the 1911 fofum as well as Ryan at Armscor.Steve

[Mike_Fontenot]

I had been told it was a 16lb by a local gun shop the wolff 18 1/2lb was longer and felt heavier.

I doubt that was really a 16lb spring ... I can't imagine that any manufacturer would ship a 10mm 1911 with a 16lb recoil spring.  I've found that new recoil springs lose some length (about a half-inch) on the first trip to the range, and then they usually stabilize after that.

Most 10mm 1911 shooters seem to prefer 20lb recoil springs.  Mine (a Kimber Eclipse) must be unusual, because it seems to run most reliably (using my DoubleTap carry ammo) with an 18.5lb spring (same as Kimber ships it with).  I also use an unusually light 18lb hammer spring (aka the "mainspring") in my Kimber ... I've never had a light-strike with it, even though I still have an extra-extra-heavy firing pin spring in it that I put in when I was testing some VERY heavy hammer springs.

[10mmfan]

I've had good luck with the 18 1/2 lb I also have a spare 18 1/2 lb a 20 and 22. I have a 26lb mainspring in the RIA and I put in a flat firing pin stop.