Aftermarket Barrel Details

[REDLINE]

Seems like we need a good thread on why you might want one brand of aftermarket barrel over another.

Yesterday I ordered a Storm Lake barrel for my G20.  I won't find out till Monday if they've got one in stock or if mine will be added to the production lineup to build.  Either way it is paid for and will be on it's way to me in the very near future.  The one I ordered is a nonported, nonthreaded, nonblack finished (Isonite QPQ), 6.02" barrel for $175.00.  And for the record I'm very excited about it!


Now to the juicy details, outside of options and what length barrels are offered, that are the same for all barrels by each manufacturer:

Bar-Sto (out of Sturgis, SD) http://www.barsto.com
Steel = other than that it's a stainless steel, it's a secret I guess
Hardness = 39 - 43 RC
Rifling = broach cut
Fit = semi drop-in (they claim 7 out of 10 times it should "drop in" without fitting), or, match target (100% of the time requires machining to fit)
Claimed Accuracy = 1.25" @ 25 yards or better
Cost of a bare bones G20 4.6" barrel = $215.00
What else do they claim? - 14 to 16 week wait time for barrels not in stock...very best and most consistent product on the market...best service humanly possible...family run and owned since 1967 (started making their first auto pistol barrels in 1971)...full case support...and have been used to win every major pistol tournament worldwide.

Storm Lake (out of Lenoir City,TN) http://www.storm-lake.com
Steel = 416R stainless steel
Hardness = 40 - 42 RC
Rifling = broach cut
Fit = usually drop-in, but occasionally require fitting
Claimed Accuracy = N/A
Cost of a bare bones G20 4.6" barrel = $160.00
What else do they claim? - 6.5 weeks or less wait time for barrels not in stock...dedicated to excellence in accuracy, excellence in quality, and excellence in value...company has existed since 1983...full case support...proudly made in the USA.

KKM Precision (out of Carson City, NV) http://www.kkmprecision.com/custom_pistol_barrels/home.php
Steel = 416 stainless steel
Hardness = 42 - 45 RC
Rifling = button
Fit = drop-in
Claimed Accuracy = N/A
Cost of a bare bones G20 4.6" barrel = $165.00
What else do they claim? - leader in custom pistol barrel manufacturing for the last decade...one of the most accurate aftermarket barrels available today and our secret is our unique Button Rifling process...Glock barrels come with fully supported match chambers.

EFK Fire Dragon (out of Mesa, AZ) http://www.efkfiredragon.com
Steel = 416 stainless steel
Hardness = 40 - 43 HC
Rifling = Electrostatic Discharge Machine process
Fit = drop-in
Claimed Accuracy = N/A
Cost of a bare bones G20 4.6" barrel = $150.99
What else do they claim? - made in the USA...highest close tolerance of any barrel available today...products are proudly made and manufactured entirely within the United States...totally commited to customers satisfaction...EDM process produces an accuracy of +/- 50 millionths of an inch and a superior finish of 16 RMS or better.

Lone Wolf Distributors (out of Oldtown, ID) http://www.lonewolfdist.com
Steel = 416R stainless steel
Hardness = N/A
Rifling = broach cut
Fit = drop-in
Claimed Accuracy = N/A
Cost of a bare bones G20 4.6" barrel = $109.95
What else do they claim? - Polished feed ramp and bore...diamond turned exterior...maximum chamber support...improved feed ramp design...target crown.


Lastly, some tidbits you may or may not care about - 

Hardness is measured by the Rockwell C scale.  The higher the RC number the more brittle the steel is.  A higher RC number does not equal greatest overall strength.  It is simply a measurement of one aspect of the steel.

Rifling:  Button rifling stresses steel but leaves behind a highly polished finish.  Broach cut rifling doesn't stress steel but doesn't leave as polished of a finish except that the barrel may still be polished afterward.  The Electrostatic Discharge Machine process doesn't stress steel and leaves a highly polished finish.

They all say they warranty defects in material and workmanship.

All 416 SS is not created equal.  416 SS is basically a recipe for steel that allows some variance.  416 SS is by far the most commonly used steel for pistol and rifle barrels.  416 with an "R" after it is unclear to me but I've seen it said that if the "R" is designated it means rifle barrel quality.  Though actual rifle barrels are not hardened to anywhere near the hardness of these pistol barrels (generally more like 30 - 32 RC).  Sometimes the steel manufacturer heat treats the steel to the buyers specifications which would be optimal.  416 SS was developed for good gun barrel qualities while still being easy to machine as far as stainless steels go because of its sulphur content in the recipe.


Hope this helps in the decision making process.  Good Luck!

[sqlbullet]

Good information.  Thanks for posting!

[The_Shadow]

There have been some companies that are either no longer around, outside the US or make barrels for guns other than Glock...
Federal  http://www.facsupplystore.com/index.asp
Jarvis  http://www.jarvis-custom.com/
Impulse Gun Barrels (IGB)  http://www.igbaustria.com/shop/index.php

[Vice]

Great info Redline, Thanks! 

[REDLINE]

There have been some companies that are either no longer around, outside the US or make barrels for guns other than Glock...
Federal  http://www.facsupplystore.com/index.asp
Jarvis  http://www.jarvis-custom.com/
Impulse Gun Barrels (IGB)  http://www.igbaustria.com/shop/index.php

In terms of Federal I can't find evidence they exist anymore.  Do you know that to be the case (I realize you mentioned some are no longer around) or are my research skill lacking?

About Jarvis and IGB, neither makes barrels in stainless steel, if anyone cares.  About Jarvis specifically, I couldn't find that they even offer a barrel chambered in 10mm.

[safariman]

If I needed a new barrlel for a SS Colt Delta Elite (And I do) where would yo turn for a mostly drop in fit with good accuracy?

[sqlbullet]

I like Kart and Bar-sto.  I also like Schuemann but I don't know if they do anything that will drop in.

A Kart easy-fit would probably be my first choice.  It is not quite a drop-in, but gives you a lot more tightness for a little bit more effort.  I don't know if they catalog a 10mm in the easy fit, but a 40 could be finish reamed to 10 quite easily.

[REDLINE]

If I needed a new barrlel for a SS Colt Delta Elite (And I do) where would yo turn for a mostly drop in fit with good accuracy?

Don't know squat about 1911 style guns, but see if this works for ya -  http://www.storm-lake.com/products/barrel

Choose 1911 and go from there.  Lots of options for that from drop-in standard to bull barrel to gunsmithing fit plus more, even in 10mm with all those options and more.

[The_Shadow]

The Bar-Sto Stainless Steel barrels were 416R as were some of the other makers as well!

All Bar-Sto Pistol barrels are machined from solid 416 stainless steel bar stock which has been heat treated 39 to 43 RC and 180,000 PSI tensile strength. Barrels are machined, bored, and rifled completely in our own shop. All barrels have a rate of twist of 1 turn in 16".

[ModGlock20]

....

Rifling:  Button rifling stresses steel but leaves behind a highly polished finish.  Broach cut rifling doesn't stress steel but doesn't leave as polished of a finish except that the barrel may still be polished afterward. 
...

Now I know why my SLake barrel has streaks between the lands and my KKM is mirror-finished land or groove.

But then if you use them enough, bullets should polish them any way, right?

[Yondering]

But then if you use them enough, bullets should polish them any way, right?

That's the common theory, but no, not really. Jacketed bullets will wear a bore over time, but don't polish it. If you want to shoot a bunch of paper patched bullets, that will eventually polish the bore.

[sqlbullet]

But then if you use them enough, bullets should polish them any way, right?

That's the common theory, but no, not really. Jacketed bullets will wear a bore over time, but don't polish it. If you want to shoot a bunch of paper patched bullets, that will eventually polish the bore.

I have done this.  It doesn't take a huge number to clean up a bore either.  Couple hundred rounds will show considerable difference in a rough bore.  Sure is a pain to make all those paper patched bullets though.

[ModGlock20]

But then if you use them enough, bullets should polish them any way, right?

That's the common theory, but no, not really. Jacketed bullets will wear a bore over time, but don't polish it. If you want to shoot a bunch of paper patched bullets, that will eventually polish the bore.

I have done this.  It doesn't take a huge number to clean up a bore either.  Couple hundred rounds will show considerable difference in a rough bore.  Sure is a pain to make all those paper patched bullets though.

There's a trick to that.  Roll them up like a cigarette then sit on them for about 8hr.  The warmth and pressure will quench paper fibers.  (could also be the gas)

[BEEMER!]

I have had good success "Fire-Lapping" rifles and revolvers to polish barrels and remedy "tight forcing cones".

Has anyone tried it on semi-auto pistols?

[DM1906]

I have had good success "Fire-Lapping" rifles and revolvers to polish barrels and remedy "tight forcing cones".

Has anyone tried it on semi-auto pistols?

Auto-pistols work out very similar to rifles.  You do have to be very careful, though.  The throat/leade will lap out MUCH quicker than the rifling.  If you keep going until the rifling is satisfactory, it may polish the throat well beyond ideal or desirable.  I've found that the grit size affects the results more than any other variable.  More coarse grit primarily affects the throat, while more fine grit will affect the bore at a higher rate than the throat.  A delicate balance is hard to determine and is different from caliber to caliber (rifle), and I haven't lapped a pistol with the intent of polishing the bore (although it is a modest side effect).  Always use the softest lead/alloy you can, as it will allow the most expansion in the bore, but doesn't seem to make as much difference in the throat.  Don't worry about leading, just clean that up later.

Waiting for the bore to polish from normal firing can take a lifetime (they're designed to not wear with normal use).  By the time the bore is nicely polished, the rest of the gun may be completely used up.