Kimber Eclipse Custom II 10mm -- anybody seeing them?

[dl1911]

Installed Kimber MSH/magwell, 20# recoil spring, and EGW flat-bottom firing pin stop.  Someone told me it would be a Series 70 of course it is 80, so I had the wrong one.  An hour with a dremel and file and I made the firing pin stop into an 80.    Significant difference in racking, we'll see how it shoots.  I was shooting a box sitting on a crushed rock driveway; the violence in impact of the bullets vs the same bullets out of my 40SW was impressive.

None of Kimber's 10mms are series 70. The only models without the Schwartz safety currently in production are the Warrior models from what I understand. I'd also suggest a one piece magwell. I've used the Kimber but the screw seems to either the screw works itself loose or breaks (in tight with red loctite) on me when I shoot a lot of full power loads. Expecting a A&S today in the mail but may switch to a Wilson Combat at some point as it's more like Kimber's.

[MOUNTAIN WILLIAM]

I prefer the S&A one piece design too, that little extra length makes a huge difference in the feel of the gun to me. All of my 1911's have one installed on them.

[spaniel]

Well, the Kimber magwell is on it now so we'll see how it lasts.  If it breaks I know where to go next.

Yes, we almost 2 years to get the gun I learned a lot then forgot a lot while I was waiting.  I don't remember where I heard it was a 70 but they were adamant they know what they were talking about...being such a small part I didn't give it much thought and just ordered it.  It was annoying to modify it, but not the end of the world either. 

Loaded up a ladder of 180gr JHP loads with Longshot tonight, hopefully I'll get the chrony out tomorrow and figure what my go-to load will be so I can fire up the progressive and run until I am out of brass. 

[harleyhopper]

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr85/logpics/20090530_1.jpg

Well, the Kimber magwell is on it now so we'll see how it lasts.  If it breaks I know where to go next.

Yes, we almost 2 years to get the gun I learned a lot then forgot a lot while I was waiting.  I don't remember where I heard it was a 70 but they were adamant they know what they were talking about...being such a small part I didn't give it much thought and just ordered it.  It was annoying to modify it, but not the end of the world either. 

Loaded up a ladder of 180gr JHP loads with Longshot tonight, hopefully I'll get the chrony out tomorrow and figure what my go-to load will be so I can fire up the progressive and run until I am out of brass. 

I know this is an old thread, but I`ve been searching all threads concerning Kimber 10mm handguns. I saw the talk concerning the EGW firing pin stops. Keep in mind, Kimber series 2 are NOT series 80 guns. This is an interesting thread from logman over on the 1911 forum and I hope he doesn`t mind me sharing this.  See the link to his pic above. Steve

This comes up from time to time and here is my version of how to deal with it.

I like the Kimber style Swartz safety. Kimber however doesn't respect their own product sometimes in the way it is timed in some of their pistols and just say squeeze the grip safety more. Wrong. The grip safety should not release the trigger before the firing pin block, therefore a light strike is impossible. Kimber also foolishly ships with a Series 80 style firing pin stop, that compounds the problem as it creates a square hole exactly in line with the push rod. This then can shorten the push rod as the slide is removed and installed, or worse jams the slide when the push rod gets in the hole from inadvertently bumping the grip safety while disassembling. I really dislike most Series 80 firing pin stops as they are cut for the offset ejector also and only contact 2/3 of the hammer face. So that gets replaced with a Series 70 style EGW part.

So before more here's that.



Okay, that's fixed. Now the timing. First here's the test that it must pass. Grip firmly, and hold the trigger back, and cycle the slide. Now while continuing to hold the trigger back, release the grip safety, and the firing pin must be free of the block. The trigger is holding the grip safety at the release point for the trigger by blocking it. Check with a punch.

Okay, now you know whether it is in time or not, but even if it is in time you may wish for less grip safety compression and staying in time. Plenty of ways to bypass the system, but I hate that with a passion as most often you are giving up something you don't need too. Tuning is the answer.

Three phases to tuning, each requiring less grip safety compression to still be in time. Phase 1, 2, and 3. Phase 1, anyone can do with hand tools, 2 and 3 require a little TIG welding.

Phase 1
Remove rear sight, spring and block. the block has a half moon cut that rests on the firing pin as it's stop. The plunger portion can be as low as the top of the frame will allow for re-installing the slide. So the moon cut can be deepened to this point. Now that you understand this or are about too. Put slide on frame and get a visual reference of how far it can be lowered, not much. Advise to file with a 5/32" chainsaw file which is .156" in dia. and the firing pin is .160", so pretty good match. Check after each smooth straight stroke. Full sight and spring assemble isn't necessary to check. Once lowered to the point that assembly is still possible without the plunger hanging down so far as to catch in the mag well, or contact the frame top, stop.

Imagine the gun operating under live fire, and note the shape of the top of the push rod protruding above the frame when the grip safety is fully compressed, take a look. When the slide comes back the plunger does drop down and when it chambers the plunger will hit the push rod and ride up on it and release the firing pin for the next shot. So now that the plunger has been lowered some the leading edge may well need to be beveled slightly and smoothly. A stone and file can be used and polish.

This alone will bring most into compliance and reduce overall needed grip safety travel.

Phase 2
When you grip your Kimber with the grip of choice, high thumbs forward for instance, the grip safety is compressed to a spot that is comfortable to you. So allowing it to come back a little more doesn't really matter as your hand will contact it as you draw and assume your grip. Some complain that with the grip they prefer, the grip safety doesn't get compressed very much, this is an improvement for that.

This requires welding, TIG being the easiest. After relieving the MSH stop surface to allow the grip safety to come out a bit more, check with assembled frame and note the top of push rod to top of frame. You want to gain a little space for the top of the push rod. Now you can weld a small bump on the top of the grip safety arm and fit so that when the grip safety isn't depressed the slide will pass over the push rod. this will give earlier firing pin block release relative to the grip safety position with your grip. Trigger release can then be tuned to occur following the firing pin release.

These two phases will greatly enhance this system and once done will not allow a light strike with very little grip safety depression and you will no longer be aware of it, but it still works for all designed purposes.

Phase 3
Extreme measure. The firing pin as we noted in Phase 1, is the stop for the block, so if you weld a dab as needed on the left side of the block so the block stops by the welded spot contacting the frame the moon notch can be slightly raised, but yet, not release the pin. One stroke at a time.

LOG
__________________
Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences!
Ask 1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous...

I just installed a Series 70 into my Eclipse. Just took longer than the usual 10-15 min to fit it. Steve

[harleyhopper]

Logman's pic in the above link shows how I've done the hammer edge on all three of my 1911's. Just stoned the edge to break it. Steve