Favorite Hunting/Woods Defense 10mm Bullet Poll -

[Maine1]

for practice, i load  a cast 175 Gr Lee TL bullet, same as i run in 40.

The 180 XTP is my carry load, and the 200 gr XTP is my woods/survival/SHTF/EOTWAWKI load. I'd be fine with the 200 XTP for about anything, though it migh be overkill for urban carry. god thing i'm not an urbanite.

I'd REALLY like to get a quality steel mold, multi cavity, for a 200 gr 10mm bullet for both a general purpose/practice load for all the mixed brass i have. 1-2K of that loaded up with a charge of blue dot would make me happy.           

[sqlbullet]

I'd REALLY like to get a quality steel mold, multi cavity, for a 200 gr 10mm bullet for both a general purpose/practice load for all the mixed brass i have. 1-2K of that loaded up with a charge of blue dot would make me happy.           

http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=40-200C-D.png

You can get this in a 2 or 3 cavity iron mold from Accurate.  If you switch to aluminum, they offer a 5 cavity mold.

[cwlongshot]

I'd REALLY like to get a quality steel mold, multi cavity, for a 200 gr 10mm bullet for both a general purpose/practice load for all the mixed brass i have. 1-2K of that loaded up with a charge of blue dot would make me happy.           

http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=40-200C-D.png

You can get this in a 2 or 3 cavity iron mold from Accurate.  If you switch to aluminum, they offer a 5 cavity mold.

I lucked into a older Lyman 200g TC mold. It works well but what I really want a WFNGC bullet.  I have some on order with Doubletap to try. Generally speaking, bullet molds are costly new. I was hoping to find used. IF I get a WFN ill put my Lyman up for sale.
I don't "need" a GC bullet, but its nice to leave my options open and I have yet to see any negatives with one. (Short of the costs and labor while sizing to instal them)

CW

[475/480]

Here is a picture of the bullets I have moulds for.
1) Lee 170 TC - 40SW
2) Accurate # 190B- LFNGC :  190 gr- SOLD this 1
3) Accurate # 200C - LFNPB : 200 gr- go to bullet for my 10's
4) MM - 215 gr WFNGC- STI 10 loves this one. I am going to shoot this in my new Kimber Target II this weekend.


Sean

[cwlongshot]

I would be happy with any of the three on the right. The one on the left is nearly identical to my 200g TC Lyman bullet. I do espically like that 215g all the way to the right!!

Works just fine, on paper...

Nice bullets 475/480! Thanks for the picture!!! 

CW

[sqlbullet]

The second from the right is the accurate mold I would suggest.  No gas check needed.  if you get leading in your 10mm with this bullet, check you fit and alloy/lube and 99% of the time you can correct it.

Sean was kind enough to send me a few of these in exchange for some lead.  Compared to my Mountain MOld 205 grain their is very little different.  Mine has more of a crimp groove than a lube groove up top, and weighs a smidge more, but same lenght, same metplat and same ogive.  I got mine in trade from a guy who used it for 38-40, hence the crimp groove.

[cwlongshot]

The gas check is to protect the base of the bullet and its important and delicate bottom edge.

It's ability or inability to do anything to/for leading is a side effect.

To move the bullet faster, more and hotter powders are needed, these powders melt the bullets base to a point accuracy suffers. That's why I prefer a gas check


Also just because a mold is cut for a gas check dosent necessitate ones use. I have shot many a GC bullet at low plinking velocities with good accuracy and zero negative effect. I do t expect thy would do as well as a plain base as velocity increases.

CW

[sqlbullet]

I cast lots of 240 gr 44 slugs for friends who load and fire them with and without gas checks.

For my needs I can't tell the difference in accuracy in my hands between gas checked and non-gas checked 10mm. Not saying there isn't one, just that it is pearls before swine in my handgun shooting.  I honestly think that is true for the vast majority of shooting, hence my statement regarding to it's application in leading.

In my rifles I do see a difference in accuracy and as a result I gas check all my .311 (30-06, 30 carbine, 308, 300 win mag)  and .27X (6.5 Carcano, 6.8SPC, 270 Win) rifle bullets.

[REDLINE]

To move the bullet faster, more and hotter powders are needed, these powders melt the bullets base to a point accuracy suffers. That's why I prefer a gas check

CW

I don't believe any common handgun load (souped up or not) is capable of melting a bullets base before said bullet leaves the barrel.  Is there any proof that that occurs?

[DM1906]

To move the bullet faster, more and hotter powders are needed, these powders melt the bullets base to a point accuracy suffers. That's why I prefer a gas check

CW

I don't believe any common handgun load (souped up or not) is capable of melting a bullets base before said bullet leaves the barrel.  Is there any proof that that occurs?

Leading, among other evidence is the proof.  This is also the reason many indoor shooting ranges prohibit cast lead bullets.  Lead vapor/smoke is caused by the burned/melted bullet base and bearing surface (bypass gas).  I've recovered many magnum-grade bullets, including 10mm, and the bullet bases show obvious "melting", consistent with hotter powders and heavier charges.  Many will have the powder residue granules embedded in the base, as well as craters, as evidence of melting.

[REDLINE]

Interesting.  It seems weird to me that lead could begin to melt in a few milliseconds or less unless temperature was at an insane level.  I guess if it only takes a hair over 620 degrees F to melt lead, it isn't so much of a stretch, especially if the gun is already warmed up from steady shooting.

[The_Shadow]

There can be erosion of alloy bullet base from extreme pressures if the fit is poor, powder gases & friction does also induce heat but the bullet is a good heat sink.  Rifling type and condition can affect the bullet bore seal and with respect to revolvers cylinder throats will impact things also.  Most of what you see as smoke is lube being burned or blown pass the bullet bore seal!

Most lead in the air contamination is from primers which contain lead compounds in their mixture and decomposition during firing process.

Yes, gas checks can help the erosion problem for bullets being driven faster by higher pressure applications, proper fit of plain base bullets will also provide a better seal.  You need to find a balance of proper fit, powders, pressure and velocity for them to work optimally for your barrel and rifling or cylinder (truing cone size can be problematic) and barrel.

Lead and lead alloy projectiles have been used for many years with great results in rifle, pistol shotgun and canons.

[475/480]

If I remember correctly . Veral Smith's book on bullet casting SHOWED many instances of pressure/gases burning the base of plain base bullets.


Sean

[sqlbullet]

Shotshell wads melt at 250 degrees F.   Never noticed any melting on them despite being exposed for a much longer time in 18" + barrels.

I haven't done extensive testing, but in my experience I don't have leading if the bullets fit.  This makes me think any melting is by plasma cutting from gas blow by when bullets don't fit.  Shotgun wads are very soft and malleable, and fully seal the bore, hence no plasma cutting.

[REDLINE]

Makes me wonder what all the variables are for melting lead based bullets during firing, and to what extents.