Who Shoots Lead

[mushraeddur]

I am just now getting into reloading after trying to find 10mm ammo.  It was about 38.00 for a box of fifty and the only place that had them is a decent drive too.  Is it a lot harder to reload your own casted bullets?  I am going to read the info on the limk in this thread, but was thinking if i can get lead, it would be interesting to start casting my own. 

I just got a lee classic turret and have not reloaded anything yet.  I'm still in the reading and research stage. 

[siberian505]

shot lead from the stock barrel for a while, no leading to speak of. Changed to a LWD barrel, wanted a supported chamber was the biggest reason.  Been shooting a RCBS 180 grain bullet at 1300 and like it lots. Want a 200 grain bullet to mess with and a hollow point version just for the splash.

[The_Shadow]

mushraeddur, you need to step up your game...set that press up and get you dies ajusted are part of the process. 
Do you have a scale...Balance Beam? or Digital? or just the LEE scoops with the charts?  I like the RCBS balance beam for its accuracy and dampening features (some lack the dampening and take a long time to settle down) for measuring powder charges, the digital works well to find unknown weights fast, like unknown powder or bullet weights.  Some digital scales only measure to the even numbers in the tents column...0.0, 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8.   The scoops are fine if you are not loading to the edge of higher performance (target loads) practice & mid range loadings.

What ever you decide on you need to understand how it works, how accurate it is, and it helps if it is quick to weigh and stabilize.

Even if you don't have all your stuff together if you are using used brass, start by inspecting, sizing and depriming them as a single stage.  You can even prime the cases in preperation of your loading secessions.  If you have some loose bullets, you can set the expander die to true the case mouth opening and flairing just enough for the bullet's base to enter.  This step will need adjusting if using cast vs. jacketed.  Therefore you will be building you skill sets while learning how you and your equipment works together. 

[mushraeddur]

I have a digital scale, the scoop that came with the 4 die set, and the pro auto disk measure.  I will be using new starline brass and some win brass that will be fired by me through the same pistol i'm loading for.  Is there a good cast lead bullet to buy as opposed to casting my own?  I'd like to cast but finding lead has not been easy.  If i have to buy lead that will cost as much as already casted bullets then i'd rather just buy them if they're worth buying.

I'll definitely start on lower levels until i learn everything well enough to load a little hotter.

[sqlbullet]

My experience with commercial lead bullets is hit and miss.

To find out there are a couple of steps.

First, you need to know the groove diameter of your gun.  Not the nominal diameter, the actual diameter.  To do this you will need to slug the bore with a lead fishing weight that is a little bigger in diameter, and then measure the slug.  There is an OK video of this process here.  I do recommend a 3/8" oak dowel versus a tool steel drill bit as a drive rod though.

If you barrel slugs .400" or less, then most commercial cast .401" bullets will probably work OK.  My Para slugs .399 and would probably be fine with commercial cast.  My two Witnesses slug at almost .401" (probably .4008") and I get mild leading any any load of commercial cast bullets.

I size my cast bullets to just under .402", and they are fine in all my guns.

You are correct that the trick is to find a good lead source.  I may have one for you.  My brother-in-law is a dentist in the Louisville area.  Depending on the type of x-ray in the practice they may generate lead foil.  I can probably ask him to save it for you.  I will find out if that would be kosher.  It may not be enough to feed your habit, but it would at least get you started.

[The_Shadow]

mushraeddur, There some who rave about these bullets with their proprietary coating, http://www.bayoubullets.net/index.html  Their website is under construction so you may have to call them.  View the demo YouTube

[sqlbullet]

According to the collective wisdom at the Cast Boolits forum, you can duplicate this with Lee Liquid Alox  and Moly powder.  I find this something that would need testing as I find Lee Liquid Alox to be quite smokey, and doubt the addition of some Moly powder is going to change that much.

I think a better bet would be to use Johnson paste wax + Moly, or beeswax + moly.  The trick with both of these is they won't coat easily at room temperature.  This coincides with the statements in the patent about the process involving integrating the moly with a wax base that melts at 180

[The_Shadow]

The coating they use has a polymer carrier (green color) from what I gather, simiular to the black bullets.  I haven't used these but there are plenty who like them.
I've been happy with the Zambini red lube but I'm almost out and will be looking at Carnuba Red or Magma sticks for my Star sizer...I have some Felix sticks that I recieved I might rework them to use.

[siberian505]

worked up to 1443 , es of 9 and sd of 3, with the RCBS 180 (191). Soft alloy sized .401, accurate might hard hitting, will try to find a rockchuck friday or sunday and observe results. No leading because I am not trying to make a lead bullet as hard as possible. I use Carnuba Red lube and really like it. I believe I am finished with load develepment

[sqlbullet]

I am guessing the (191) is the as cast weight.  Either way, that is a stout load.  Well into the 800 ft lbs zone.

Glad to hear another who has discovered that harder isn't always (usually isn't) better. 

Curious what the load is you have landed on.  If I missed it in another post, just point me to it.

[siberian505]

Oops, sorry. The powder is surplus WC 820 (lot 47320) at 14 grains. Was sold as Accurate #9, new #9 is different and easier to ignite.  Yes the as cast weight is 191. Yup, stout load but its just a geelock and therefore replaceble if  it falls apart from heavy use and loads. I bought it for a carry gun in northwest Wyoming, espcially for wolves in the winter but a face full of these might even give snotty grizzly a headache or worse the rest of the year.

[sqlbullet]

I have been looking for a deal on WC820.  But at $100 for 8 lbs it is no cheaper per load than longshot.

[siberian505]

shot the same load today, different light. ave 1215, es 10 sd 5. Hmmmmmmmmmm, I will try again on a cloudy day if we ever get one again

[mushraeddur]

My experience with commercial lead bullets is hit and miss.

To find out there are a couple of steps.

First, you need to know the groove diameter of your gun.  Not the nominal diameter, the actual diameter.  To do this you will need to slug the bore with a lead fishing weight that is a little bigger in diameter, and then measure the slug.  There is an OK video of this process here.  I do recommend a 3/8" oak dowel versus a tool steel drill bit as a drive rod though.

If you barrel slugs .400" or less, then most commercial cast .401" bullets will probably work OK.  My Para slugs .399 and would probably be fine with commercial cast.  My two Witnesses slug at almost .401" (probably .4008") and I get mild leading any any load of commercial cast bullets.

I size my cast bullets to just under .402", and they are fine in all my guns.

You are correct that the trick is to find a good lead source.  I may have one for you.  My brother-in-law is a dentist in the Louisville area.  Depending on the type of x-ray in the practice they may generate lead foil.  I can probably ask him to save it for you.  I will find out if that would be kosher.  It may not be enough to feed your habit, but it would at least get you started.

That would be awesome!!  Let me know, i can give you contact info if needed!

[mushraeddur]

I have been looking for a deal on WC820.  But at $100 for 8 lbs it is no cheaper per load than longshot.

Longshot is a little cheaper at the place i go: 89.95 for 8lbs.