Saw an RIA10MM today

Started by hAkron, May 07 2013 05:59:11 PM MDT

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Retired Squid

My TLE/RL has from factory with 4.7# trigger, with cleaning and a proper synthetic oil in trigger group and a very light synthetic grease on rail contact surface and about 50 rounds later it has dropped to 4.3# if friends digital trigger pull gage is correct. The 4 to 5 pound range is about the sweat spot for a combat/duty/CCW gun like the TLE, but a target gun or comp gun like you have should be 2 to 4 pound range depending on type of shooting and individual preference.

I have the FPS in parts box waiting, but will wait till recoil spring arrives this week before doing that install. 
22LR for plinking, 357 for paper, 10mm for when 45ACP's not enough.

gandog56

#31
Quote from: denclaste on June 15 2013 05:51:43 PM MDT
gandog56,
$600 is absolutely great for all metal 10mm that doesn't pig belly the brass or require a aftermarket barrel. And the 10mm 1911is a great "stress reliever" .
Dennis

I'm not sure. Many Glock owners swear they shoot the cast reloads that are supposedly the problem with the barrels going kaboom. I don't have a Glock 10mm because the grips are too big for my small, short fingered hand, and the grip angle just seems wrong to me, not because of the supposed barrel problem. They certainly are cheaper than most 1911 types.
Some people think I'm paranoid because I have so many guns. With all my guns, what do I have to be paranoid about?

sqlbullet

The issue with Glock and lead, IMHO is bore diameter.

Any experienced cast boolit shooter will tell you you have to slug the bore, and size your bullets to your gun's barrel.  Most guys I know that have checked their Glocks find the barrel to be about .001"-.002" over nominal.

This means that most commercial cast bullets for a given caliber are too small for a glock barrel.  In 10mm, for example, most commercial cast bullets are sized .401", which is .001" over nominal .400" for 10mm.  Such bullets would work fine in my P16-40/10mm which slugs out at .399", and in my p12 10mm conversion, which slugs out at .399" as well.  They are marginal in my Witness guns which slug at .4005", and I would not even think of shooting them in my Glock which is .402".

I think the horror stories of Glocks, lead and KB's are from guys that aren't experienced, didn't educate themselves, bought a box o' bullets at the gun show that were insanely hard as well as undersize for their gun and didn't check the bore after a few shots to ensure they weren't getting leading.

Undersized, super hard lead bullets are certain to lead severely. 

Retired Squid

Having shot several 1000 rounds of lead in 20 & 29's factory barrels. Most people don't know that polygonal rifling was designed for lead use originally in 22 rim-fire high end target rifles in Europe. It gives a better grip on the bullet with less pressure allowing better velocity and less leading thus requiring longer shooting periods between accuracy falling off.

The only problem shooting lead in a Glock is the same with shooting lead in a S&W or Ruger automatic or revolver for that matter and that is shooting lead then switching to jacked bullets and suddenly having too much restriction for bullet to pass thru barrel. Other cause is Glock is true combat gun designed to chamber fire round after round even when in mud, dirt and sand, one thing important to this reliability is a loose chamber no more lower round support then needed for standard military ammo just as the Colt 1911's were of WWI, WWII, Korea and Viet Nam fame. When you have ever seen one of these two come up out of the ocean with salt water and sand running out of them as they were fired and you will understand why US military wanted Glocks or new 1911's almost 30 years ago instead of POS Beretta they got, and why USMC has gone back to Colt 45ACP 1911's. 

22LR for plinking, 357 for paper, 10mm for when 45ACP's not enough.