Recommendation for Montana; bears / hiking sidearm

Started by AlpineJunky, April 22 2022 12:19:36 PM MDT

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AlpineJunky

Howdy Guys. Not a huge gun guy so hoping to get some feedback on my research conclusions. Here is what I am after: Looking to replace my trusty 40 with a 10mm; I live in NW Montana and have known for some time that the 40 really is not a good choice should I need to use it / bears / bigger game. I do a lot of hiking so looking for as small a package as reasonable. I am most comfortable with a semi style and desire the extra rounds. I live pretty remote and have been incredibly sloppy with regard to ensuring I have a firearm around / available, hoping this goes a ways in applying remedy - that is getting a package that I can use for hiking / self defense in an emergency situation.

Here is what I am coming up with:
Glock 20 with a KKM 6.5 barrel (My understanding is the extra barrel length allows for the round to achieve a higher velocity and thus deliver more energy; do I have that right? - actually making the step up to the 10mm meaningful; still easy to clear the holster but much easier to carry than say a G40)

Trigger upgrade to reduce the pull a bit & some low light sights & a small gun light.

Ammo:
Buffalo Bore 200g or Grizzly 180g JHP

Any feedback? Thanks a million!! 

The_Shadow

Well the G20 is a great choice in Bear Country!   The longer barrel helps with better velocity.
Many use the Heavy Hard Cast bullets for bears for better penetration.  Just be mindful that some of these Wide Flat Nose bullets can present feeding issues.  Only testing will determine their feed and function.  Even then there can be an occasional failure to feed.

That being said Buffalo Bore and Underwood are probably the best choices with 200 or 220 grain Hard cast.

The "10mm" I'm Packin', Has The Bullets Wackin', Smakin' & The Slide is Rackin' & Jackin'!
NRA Life Member
Southeast, LoUiSiAna

Kenk

Welcome AlpineJunky, as The Shadow mentioned, the wide flat nose hard cast bullets have the potential to be problematic feeding wise. For me (and yes, it?s not inexpensive) I like to run 150 - 200 rd?s for reliability testing when it comes to defense, and or hunting ammo. I haven?t had much experience with Buffalo Bore,  but have shot a ton of Underwood?s stuff. One good option would be their 200gr. Flat Nose Hi-Tek Coated Hard Cast for bear, and their 200gr. XTP for deer and or defense. As for a holster, you should have a look at GunFighterInc?s Kenai Chest Holster if you hike a lot. Good luck and enjoy!

https://www.underwoodammo.com/10mm-auto-200-grain-hard-cast-flat-nose.html

https://www.underwoodammo.com/10mm-auto-200-grain-xtp-jacketed-hollow-point.html

gnappi

Before going with a G20, look at the Glock model 40 10mm longslide. It also comes stock with the MOS sight mount, replaceable back straps, KKM has a 7" bbl for it, AND the mag release is reversible. Once a right handed shooter uses their middle finger on the right hand to dump themag, they'll wonder why all RH guns are not reversible :-)


That ALMOST makes me want to get a Glock model 40!


 
Regards,

    Gary

Rojo27

#4
Glock 20 is what I carry when I'm out in sticks in your neck of the woods.  With the KKM barrel (I have one as well) or with factory OEM barrel. 

In NW Montana:
Strong endorsement +1 on the hardcast wfn projectile loaded on the warm side by Buffalo Bore, Underwood, Grizzly and even Double Tap. (I personally favor gas checked to reduce leading potential).  Lots of guys here load their own.

As others have sad, very wise to test function in your firearm.  I've had no issues with KKM barrel or OEM barrel and stick with the 200gr WFN hardcast in OEM barrel.  If I stayed with 200gr;  not seen stabilization or feeding issues in with OEM.  Watch for leading if you shoot much hardcast in Glock OEM barrel (again gas check bullet helps a lot) but I've not had any issues although not recommended to feed steady diet of hardcast in Glock OEM barrel. 

Considering the dangerous animals in your area, hardcast way to go; one other option might be Buffalo Bore "Dangerous Game" in 10mm.  It's monolithic copper bullet built like a punch round.  It penetrates even deeper than hardcast but comes a pretty decent cost premium.  What's a couple bucks when your talking about your life? However, either will do nicely!

RedTeam98

In Alaska
G20 with Kkm barrel
NDZ 22 pound spring and rod
200 XTP underwood or hot handloads

Markwell

     We've spent a lot of time in big bear country over the years climbing/fishing/working in a hunting camp etc. and used to carry one of our 5" S&W model 29s with 300gr hard cast LBTs. As we got older it was hard to manipulate the old wheelgun in DA mode so we switched to a 1911 in 10mm. Our choice is a Guncrafter Industries No Name full size Govt model with a 6" barrel in a 5" slide. Carried in a Diamond-D Guide's Choice chest holster it's comfortably out of the way whether on an ATV or horseback or while hiking with a pack. For ammo we handload 200 gr hard cast RNFP GC bullets. Like others have said, be sure to test these bullets for feed reliability in whatever weapon you choose.
Firearm resale value should be your kids' problem.

Kenk

Absolutely, and having a short barrel slug gun on hand wouldn?t hurt anything either

terdog

Glock's are great guns. Have you actually held 1? Alot of folks don't really like the grip angle and size of the grip of Glocks. Just sayin...

I'd highly recommend that you find a shop that has options other than Glocks. XD's or the new Smith are good choices.
Also, If you get a G20, maybe pick up some of the higher capacity mags.

I'd also suggest getting something shorter than the G20. Your needs probably wont include longer distances, and you may put a premium on a quicker draw from your holster. Something to think about.

I agree with a chest holster. I bought a generic nylon from Amazon and feel that it works great. I'd suggest getting 1 with a snap thumb break .

I ran a G29 for years. Ridin dirt bikes, Jeepin, snowmobiling or hiking. It was always my go to, especially when I lived in the Idaho Panhandle.
That being said, I never really likes the grip.

So a couple months ago, I sold my G29 and bought the Springfield XDm Elite Compact 10mm. I really feel that its an upgrade.
Better grip angle and feel. I removed the magwell and bought a PEARCE GRIP floor plate for the smaller mag, then bought some of the 15 rnd mags.
For me, it works, feels and shoots better than the Glock.
Check the Springfield site as I believe that they are offering some free upgrades or such.

Heres a link to me shooting my XDm Elite with just range 180's. Hittin 5" steel at 13 yrds.
https://youtube.com/shorts/COs2qiMD0DA

And a review of the XDm Compact.
https://youtu.be/kmL2ALYIESg

Practise often and get some DANGEROUS GAME ammo.


redial

My woods rig was similar to what others have posted but I've recently sold my Gen3 G20 (6" Lone Wolf bbl) for the new M&P 4.6". The grip is much better IMO but only Wolff offers an appropriate recoil spring (22 lbs) and it requires their guide rod to work. My 200 gr cast loads with Longshot lost about 75 fps in the shorter barrel, but I can live with that. Still hate the trigger, but that's another story.

This is all fine and good but all for naught if you can't get it into action RIGHT NOW, so I always carry outside any garment, regardless of weather. In the woods, open carry doesn't attract the same attention it does elsewhere.

Mark
South of Missoula

Ramjet

The gun is only as good as the person wielding it.

After you make your choice get the training and shoot the living _______ outta that gun.

Keep it clean and shoot a bunch more. If you don?t have training or are not familure with a gun then get the training and get familiar .

Kenk


sqlbullet

Also, training is a perishable.  Gotta keep doing it.  And it is good to hold back a couple of drills you DON'T train for testing.  Anyone can learn to shoot a drill for qualification.  But, can you shoot a given scenario cold using skills used in other trained drills.

Here is how I accomplish this:  Have a number of drill laid out that you can set up and run at your range/shooting spot.  Number the drills in a binder.  At the start of the shooting session, draw a number from a hat/box/bag, and shoot the corresponding drill, training that drill until proficient.  Continue with another drill, then another, shooting each to profienciency.  WHen you reach the end of your session, draw and shoot a final drill.  This is your "cold" drill you have not shot that day, and is the one that tells you if you where you are.

Twist:  Once you have followed this regime for a few sessions and start to feel proficient, shoot the "cold" for score drill at the start of you session, not the end.  Then choose practice based on where your "cold" performance was weak.

Recently I added the 10 shot Bakersfield PD drill to my training.  I scored a 94 shooting start of session using a stopwatch as I don't have a shot timer.  I felt really good as it was the first time I had shot the drill.  I lost four points to time when I bobbled a reload on the third segment (draw, 2 shots, reload, 2 shots at 30 feet) and I dropped and I lost 2 points outside the 7" circle, but still in the 9X13 box.  I don't know when I dropped the two points as I drew the circle and box on an FBI Q target AFTER I shot the drill, so when shooting my only reference was the Q in center mass.  I shot the drill with a Tisas GI 1911 since that is what I was shooting that day.  I was drawing from under a conceal garment from a 1791 OWB leather holster.

For years I just plinked for fun.  It was a real wake up call when a new shooting friend suggested we shoot at clay pigeons, six each, against each other.  I lost and lost bad.  I am a decent shot, but the stress of seeing him move one pigeon ahead of me did me in.  Since then I shoot timed drills often, and have a dueling tree specifically to shoot against a "foe".


Ramjet


Kenk



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