Loaded up .40S&W cases at 10mm length

[Graybeard]

Graybeard

I will remember you for a long time as I check that area especially after firing the nuclear loads.  I might not have ever found it just cleaning the barrel and did not the other day just cleaning the barrel!

I sent two Ruger Mark II uppers to them last year to get drilled and tapped and the service was quick around 10 days door to door.  If they have it this time for over a month, I will survive with plenty of stuff to play with.  I think I will put a note with it saying if you replace ANY parts other than the barrel, I need the originals returned to me in a bag!!!!!  I did barely touch the sear surfaces with crocus cloth so they are probably more shiny than stock.  I am just afraid if they test the trigger at 3.5#'s it will cause them to take a look at it.  I think these average closer to 5.

Well thanks I'm just glad you didn't end up with a locked up gun/partially chambered live round/ cut off the slide stop and pound it out scenario.

I'm also glad Sparkyv chimed in. I've always had a problem regaining trust in guns that fail out of the box. It's good to hear that Ruger did right by him and he's had no further issues.

[bigboredad]

Glad they took care of ya

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[BC17A]

A little FYI for you guys for my first post. The 10mm SR1911 with bull barrel is also fully machined for standard 1911 barrels, bushings recoil springs and plugs. I fit a Sig 38 Super barrel in mine since I'm a fan of that cartridge, and it's now my most accurate 1911.
The only thing I did other than a bit of lug filing was to weld/machine each side of the hood as it's narrower than the hood of the bull barrel. Lockup and fit is excellent.
The barrel can be used with the narrow hood without issue, but I wanted the best accuracy. I also bought the Sig 40S&W barrel but haven't fit it yet.

As for the stock Ruger barrels cracking, I've discussed this with a few Smith friends. The consensus is that the bull barrel's mass, along with the fact that it's cast, make a weak combination. Though I've only run 500-800 rounds through mine, most were under full power and most likely why the barrel hasn't cracked. In the unlikely event the barrel does crack, I'll probably just fit a standard 10mm barrel in it's place.

Here's the link to the CDNN barrels, both 38Sup and .40S&W. As inexpensive as these are there's no reason not to make the SR more versatile.




image upload site

[jazzsax8]

BC17A
What a great option and your expertise in fitting with 1911's new to me is an I'm jealous skill!  I am not sure if my barrel lug area was already cracked when I bought it used but I had not put more than 50 rounds through it and they were moving pretty well using 9.1gr Longshot with a 180 JFN bullet.  Fairly short of the 9.5gr max.  Someone said that the sharp angle in the area where the crack started should have a radius on it to make it stronger.  Great to know these can be fitted with a regular barrel and bushing as well.

[Mike D]

A little FYI for you guys for my first post. The 10mm SR1911 with bull barrel is also fully machined for standard 1911 barrels, bushings recoil springs and plugs. I fit a Sig 38 Super barrel in mine since I'm a fan of that cartridge, and it's now my most accurate 1911.
The only thing I did other than a bit of lug filing was to weld/machine each side of the hood as it's narrower than the hood of the bull barrel. Lockup and fit is excellent.
The barrel can be used with the narrow hood without issue, but I wanted the best accuracy. I also bought the Sig 40S&W barrel but haven't fit it yet.

As for the stock Ruger barrels cracking, I've discussed this with a few Smith friends. The consensus is that the bull barrel's mass, along with the fact that it's cast, make a weak combination. Though I've only run 500-800 rounds through mine, most were under full power and most likely why the barrel hasn't cracked. In the unlikely event the barrel does crack, I'll probably just fit a standard 10mm barrel in it's place.

Here's the link to the CDNN barrels, both 38Sup and .40S&W. As inexpensive as these are there's no reason not to make the SR more versatile.




image upload site

Wow, thanks for the link! A 38 Super barrel for $40 sounds like fun.

Pardon my ignorance but what mags would be needed to run 38 Super if the original host is a 10mm?


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[BC17A]

Wow, thanks for the link! A 38 Super barrel for $40 sounds like fun.

Pardon my ignorance but what mags would be needed to run 38 Super if the original host is a 10mm?


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Any 38 Super magazines for the 1911 will work. I prefer Mec-Gar and have yet to find one that's unreliable.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mec-Gar-MecGar-1911-Magazine-2-Mags-Holds-9-Rounds-of-38-Super-MGCGOV38B/322412455764?epid=2254745587&hash=item4b1147a754:g:NbUAAOSwNnRYlP69


Another FYI for anyone wanting to know about barrel bushings. CDNN has the standard Remington 1911 bushing for $4.99 and those fit the Sig barrels like they were made for them. I didn't have to do anything to the one for the 38 Super as it's O.D. was .0005" larger than the barrel. Haven't measured the one I got for the 40 yet but it fits about the same from what I can tell. Also a standard #3 .278" barrel link is what the Sig barrels are machined for.

[jazzsax8]

BC17A
I hopefully sent you a private message about the .40 barrel you posted.

Thanks,
Marshall

[jazzsax8]

Well its been a month and the Ruger SR1911 10mm came back today.  Unbelievable service.  When I called in the problem with the cracked barrel lug, I asked them about having polished some of the trigger component area and he said it was OK to remove all the components so they would not replace them.  Removed everything from the sear, trigger all the way down including the mainspring housing, all pins and no magazine.  Well, what did they do....they replaced ALL of the parts and sent them back to me with the pistol ready to shoot.  Yep, they put their nice white rag in the box as well.  The barrel lug area has a nice radius now on both sides of the vertical area.  While it was out, I picked up the flat bottom firing pin stop, Cylinder & Slide light pull sear spring and recoil buffers.  Tested the factory trigger before replacing my polished components produced an over 5# trigger that would not break using my RCBS gauge.  Installed my stuff including the light pull sear spring and the trigger dropped from 3.5#'s to 2.75#'s!  Yippee, I might be able to shoot this thing.  They even sent a new magazine as I had held mine back.  What a company!

Is there anything about the light pull sear spring that might cause a problem for the reset?  Still has the original 29# mainspring so it will dent the primers.  I will start off with one in chamber and one in the mag just in case.