9x25 Dillon issues

nhyrum · January 16 2021 06:38:18 PM MST

Alright guys, I've almost got this girl running 100% but I'm still fighting one small issue, and I've tried a number of things. Brief overview of the pistol. It started out life as a rock island fs hc 10mm. Bar sto barrel and an egw HUGE comp. Barrel was a 9mm blank I had cut by a smith who had done a few back in the day. The shoulder is further forward than saami, I believe that was something he had done a while ago to get more powder volume.

Every now and then I get a round that won't go completely into battery. All it takes is a light bump on the back of the slide. I've tried more shoulder bump, settled on 10 thou. More than about 15 and I get case head separation rather often, much less than about 5 and I have more feeding and chambering issues.

Also, this might be a bit of a tall order, but is there somewhere or someone who could make me a go/no go block for my chamber, since it's custom?

I'm running out of ideas as to what the hang up might be. This last batch I only had maybe 2 in 50 that hung up, and that was after every round had been plunk tested.

The_Shadow · January 16 2021 08:04:00 PM MST

nhyrum, my first question is, are you pass through sizing your brass? Most regular dies don't reach the area near the extractor cut where some loads can stretch or bulge the case.
by pass through sizing before regular sizing that can iron out that area.

The cases need to be sized so they are flush to the barrel hood and not less than 0.002" deeper. If too deep light primer strikes can occur depending on the firearm.

nhyrum · January 16 2021 08:19:05 PM MST

Quote from: The_Shadow on January 16 2021 08:04:00 PM MST
nhyrum, my first question is, are you pass through sizing your brass? Most regular dies don't reach the area near the extractor cut where some loads can stretch or bulge the case.
by pass through sizing before regular sizing that can iron out that area.

The cases need to be sized so they are flush to the barrel hood and not less than 0.002" deeper. If too deep light primer strikes can occur depending on the firearm.

You know, that very well could be it. With my shoulder being as far forward as it is, I've got my die screwed out further than normal.

That brings up a second issue. I've got two presses. An ancient herters, that takes special shell holders, and a 650. I might have to get one of the shell holder adapters for the herters...

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The_Shadow · January 17 2021 10:16:47 AM MST

The Dillon sizing die can over size the case pushing the neck back too far and that will cause the headspace to be deeper than necessary. I work for flush with the barrel hood on mine.

Using the RCBS press and RCBS 10mm shell holder the Dillon die never touches the shellholder like when doing full length rifle case resizing.
I have added a RCBS lock ring so my Dillon Sizer never changes its setting...

Also as mentioned I run all cases through the LEE 10mm FCD with the guts removed as a pass through setup...ie "Bulge Buster". That step has been very helpful with 10mm, 9x25, 40S&W & 357Sig. I have also used a bulge buster set up for 380ACP, 45ACP and even 9mm Luger cases, Because the 9mm is a tapered case, I'm using the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die 9x18mm (9mm Makarov) for that process.

nhyrum · January 17 2021 11:09:02 AM MST

I do currently have it set up so the case head is flush with the hood. I do think I'll add pass through sizing to my prep, and hopefully that helps.

Any ideas on where I could get a custom go/no-go guage block?

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The_Shadow · January 17 2021 02:23:22 PM MST

Maybe Dillon if anyone has them...

Kenk · January 17 2021 02:39:10 PM MST

This may not be at all what you are looking for, but L.E. Wilson Inc makes some awesome go, no go / plunk gauges

Ken

nhyrum · January 17 2021 05:30:58 PM MST

Neither Dillon, nor Wilson make a 9x25 case gauge. Plus, with my chamber being non standard, they would be of no use to me. Whidden can customize gauges, but they need one to be supplied to them. I'm thinking this will be the type of endeavor where I'm either have to send them a few pieces of fired brass or the barrel in and have one made from scratch.

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Mike D · January 18 2021 02:40:23 PM MST

Quote from: nhyrum on January 17 2021 05:30:58 PM MST
Neither Dillon, nor Wilson make a 9x25 case gauge. Plus, with my chamber being non standard, they would be of no use to me. Whidden can customize gauges, but they need one to be supplied to them. I'm thinking this will be the type of endeavor where I'm either have to send them a few pieces of fired brass or the barrel in and have one made from scratch.

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Wilson will make you a gauge based off fired and resized cases. I recently had the make me one for 10mm magnum.

Cost and turn around time seemed reasonable.

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nhyrum · January 20 2021 12:25:14 PM MST

Quote from: Mike D on January 18 2021 02:40:23 PM MST

Wilson will make you a gauge based off fired and resized cases. I recently had the make me one for 10mm magnum.

Cost and turn around time seemed reasonable.

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I'll give them a go. Did you have to contact them directly about it?

Quote from: The_Shadow on January 17 2021 10:16:47 AM MST

Also as mentioned I run all cases through the LEE 10mm FCD with the guts removed as a pass through setup...ie "Bulge Buster". That step has been very helpful with 10mm, 9x25, 40S&W & 357Sig.

Do you have to have the bulge buster kit? Or can I just have the fcd sans guts, and use, say, the stem and cup from a pass through bullet sizer?

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therognp · January 20 2021 02:20:52 PM MST

I would suppose you could send them a cerrosafe casting of the chamber . They would have the exact within time dimensions of your chamber. Brass can vary a bit due to hardening and springbuck. I believe Midway and Rotometal both sell Cerrosafe.

BEEMER! · January 20 2021 04:02:33 PM MST

Why not just use your barrel for a gauge? I have always done that and it has never been a big problem.

nhyrum · January 20 2021 07:17:49 PM MST

Quote from: BEEMER! on January 20 2021 04:02:33 PM MST

Why not just use your barrel for a gauge? I have always done that and it has never been a big problem.

Because taking the barrel out of the gun isn't easy, it's not the kind that just a flick of a lever and the slide comes off, yank the spring out and the barrel just pulls out. The comp on the front means the barrel has to go out the front, non captive recoil spring, etc. Ideally, I'd have a 100 round block.

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nhyrum · January 20 2021 07:18:54 PM MST

Quote from: therognp on January 20 2021 02:20:52 PM MST
I would suppose you could send them a cerrosafe casting of the chamber . They would have the exact within time dimensions of your chamber. Brass can vary a bit due to hardening and springbuck. I believe Midway and Rotometal both sell Cerrosafe.

I kinda wonder if I could just send them the barrel and have them do it. That way, I can't screw anything up.

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BEEMER! · January 21 2021 10:37:12 AM MST

Quote from: nhyrum on January 20 2021 07:17:49 PM MST
Quote from: BEEMER! on January 20 2021 04:02:33 PM MST

Why not just use your barrel for a gauge? I have always done that and it has never been a big problem.
Because taking the barrel out of the gun isn't easy, it's not the kind that just a flick of a lever and the slide comes off, yank the spring out and the barrel just pulls out. The comp on the front means the barrel has to go out the front, non captive recoil spring, etc. Ideally, I'd have a 100 round block.

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I apologize for not reading your post well enough to see you have a comp.

Have you tried talking to whoever chambered it to cut you one? He should have the reamer yet I would think.