First trip w/ Kimber TLE 10mm

[180@1300]

Took out the new Kimber TLE 10mm for the first time today. Shot American Eagle 180, HPR 180, Hornady XTP 180, Underwood 180, and UMC 180. Had a couple of FTFs with the Kimber mag, and no issues with the Metalform mags. Accuracy was excellent, and was best with Underwood and UMC.

There are a couple of things I noticed that might be problems, and I wondering if I need to send the gun back to Kimber. I haven't had a 1911 in many years, so I wanted to get some input.

I noticed that the right edge of the barrel's feed ramp had some notches in it (I wanted to shoot it first and see if that caused a problem). It didn't cause any issues today; I don't think. I think the FTFs were mag related or break-in related. Should I leave it, tray and carefully smooth them out with a Dremel. Or could this eventually be an issue, and I should send back to Kimber? If you look straight at the chamber you'll see a gouge at about 2o'clock. ??

One obnoxious thing was that the slide stop kept engaging while I was firing. Sometimes even when I was sure to keep my left thumb away from it while firing. I think I might know what the issue is. I noticed that the plunger spring was not straight, there is a Kink in the middle that sends the spring in another direction, at about a 45 degree angle. So the spring starts straight and then bends at an angle. There seems to be tension on the plungers. The safety works and so does they slide stop. If I replace the spring will that solve the issue.

The firing pin leaves a weird dimple on the primer, just below the strike crater. Is this an issue?

Lastly, the action does not seem smooth It feels like it gets hung up on the disconnector  (and the part that sticks up to the right of it - dunno what that is). Will this smooth out with time, or did I put the sear spring in wrong?

[Intercooler]

Work your ramp and continued on. Is it new? Better than most on a new 1911.

[The_Shadow]

The primer makers are what is called "firing pin wipe", this occurs as the barrel is dropping out of battery and the firing pin is still pressed against the primer.   It is common in many types of firearms under heavy recoil (high impulse ammo)! 
The 1911 styles can use a flat bottom Firing pin stop, if I recall.  Changing firing pin springs can sometimes help.  I can be severe enough on some to cause the firing pin to break or wear down.

The dings and roughness really should not be there on your gun but they seem to be cosmetic, but these gun companies still want top dollar for their less than perfect work! 

[EdMc]

Shadow has described the reason pretty well. It isn't too uncommon, or so I've read. Unless you're seeing bits of metal around the firing pin hole on the breech face I wouldn't worry too much about it. If it bothers you try an extra strength firing pin spring. (Wolff) If that doesn't do it you can try a flat bottom firing pin stop and heavier mainspring. The latter two will increase the lock time.

[Intercooler]

I actually think and have read the heavier firing pin spring makes it worse. I think (and practice) just leaving the stock piece in and letting it wear down. When I install a new extra power recoil spring and I never use the extra power firing pin spring with it. When I them down for cleaning I do really clean the firing pin channel though.