I'm looking for a dual action spring for my 6" TRP.  There are hundreds of springs for 5" guns, but not 6".  My intent is to reduce the slide's thrust on the frame, and muzzle movement for faster rebound to the target.  Any help is appreciated.

Have you checked Wolff? For my 6 inch 1911 I purchased their 1911 longslide recalibration pack. They say the TRP uses a standard 1911 springset so I don't see why that wouldn't work. Or you could just purchase longslide spring #1 for their strongest one.

https://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/COLT/1911%20GOV'T%20PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1#800

Have you checked with Wolff Gun Springs?  https://www.gunsprings.com/

I looked around also for the spring setup that you are asking about and ended up going with the Wolff Long Slide spring.

Since you are specifically asking for a double spring set up and your TRP has a long plug you can go with the setup that Colt uses in their Delta Elites.  They use an inner short spring at 9 pounds and an outer 5" spring rated at 14 pounds.  The inner springs are available from Brownells.  You will deed a smaller diameter guide rod also.


https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/recoil-parts/recoil-springs/recoil-spring-inner-prod4272.aspx

If you want to go heavier than the 23 pounds total, go with a heavier 5" spring.

Here's an update on my adventure.  I have been able to talk to an actual person from one of the spring companies.  they had no clue, much less a solution.  I have emails out to 2 companies. I tried the inquiry button at Brownells and actually got a response from a person, who referred me to another person. And then there was nothing but a blank screen.



I do have some possibilities.  Wilson has a flat wire spring, but for 5" bbl.  I remember seeing a David Tubbs video about flat wire springs for AR-15s.  He was showing how the spring gained strength as it compressed, and then reduced power as it expands.  But I don't know if it applies to pistols, nor to what extent.



Wolff has a variable power spring, and Sprinco has a progressive recoil spring.  But I'll have to get in touch with them to find out how much the power changes.  And neither are designed for a 6" bbl.



Thanks for your replies, and I'll keep you posted.

Beemer:  The problem with a standard round recoil spring is that it doesn't solve the problem of hot loads in a pistol.  your gun is being pounded by both ends of the slide.  The object is to let the slide come back in recoil strong enough to give a reasonable ejection of the fired case, yet be slow enough at the end to allow sufficient time for that case to clear the gun and allow the magazine to raise the next cartridge. 

To me, the optimum solution is the Colt Delta elite that you mentioned.  That's one of the emails that are out there.  This system allows the slide to come back relatively rapidly until it hits the inner spring.  Then it slows down drastically giving a reduced slam on the frame and reduced muzzle jump.  As it closes, the lighter outer spring gives a reduced slam on the frame, and reduced muzzle dip.  But I don't know if it'll fit in the TRP.   Hopefully I'll know if it'll work by tomorrow. 

Thanks for your reply.

I use the two spring Delta system in a 6" 10mm Remington R1 and it works fine.  Brass still goes a mile even with medium loads.  I have not increased the 14# outer spring yet.  The inner spring is just touching the recoil spring plug when the slide is in full battery.  It would be nice to be able to get different weight inner springs somewhere.

I am using the strongest Wolff longslide spring cut to the max number of coils in a 6" Les Baer Hunter.  It reads 22# at the length it is with the slide completely back.  I so far have only shot 9X25 Dillion in it.

When the 10mm pistol arrived from Baer it was equipped with the same Wolff longslide but cut much shorter and it pulled 17# at the maximum compression point.  I found this a little surprising but if you have ever dealt with Les Baer, you do not question him.

We have a solution!!!!!  I've been talking with Alan @ Sprinco and here's what we came up with.  He will sell me the 6" recoil management system #12263 w/o the reverse plug for $99.95.  He also recommended the 20# spring #25020.  Then I need to take the front plug from the TRP and have it drilled, counter-bored and buffed for the guide rod.



Ta-Da.



I do have my doubts about the 20# spring, as it might be too strong.  But I can play with that later.



If you want to go this way, and get the $20 break on the recoil system, you'll need to call in your order. 

Quote from: llamaboy on April 19 2021 07:58:10 PM MDT
The problem with a standard round recoil spring is that it doesn't solve the problem of hot loads in a pistol.  your gun is being pounded by both ends of the slide.  The object is to let the slide come back in recoil strong enough to give a reasonable ejection of the fired case, yet be slow enough at the end to allow sufficient time for that case to clear the gun and allow the magazine to raise the next cartridge. 

To me, the optimum solution is the Colt Delta elite that you mentioned.  That's one of the emails that are out there.  This system allows the slide to come back relatively rapidly until it hits the inner spring.  Then it slows down drastically giving a reduced slam on the frame and reduced muzzle jump.  As it closes, the lighter outer spring gives a reduced slam on the frame, and reduced muzzle dip.  But I don't know if it'll fit in the TRP.   Hopefully I'll know if it'll work by tomorrow. 

Thanks for your reply.

Hello llamaboy and welcome to the forum.

One of the issues in chambering a 1911 in a high pressure caliber like 10mm (and 40 S&W as well) is slide velocity.  As you described, that increased slide velocity can cause feeding problems.  In the late 1980s we were introduced to a new term "frame battering", as in the slide would come back in recoil with such force it would literally start to peen the frame from impact. Now, weather or not this was actually happening, people believed it could happen and it brought forth a slue of new ideas on how to resolve the "problem".  However, all of these solutions introduce new issues or unintended consequences.  With some of them being worse than the "problem" they are suppose to solve.

The easiest solution (and cheapest) is a heavier weight recoil spring or duel spring set up like Colt did with the Delta back in the 1980s.  Progressively wound springs were introduced and I've also seen multi piece recoil guide rods with a heavy spring built in to act as a shock absorber.
However, the unintended consequences of these type of solutions are they slam the slide closed much harder, causing broken lower recoil lugs, broken slide stops or in some cases making the slide stop hole in the frame an oval.

Another solution are recoil buffers.  Now, buffers aren't a new idea and many handguns, rifles and SMGs use them.  (mostly blowback designs using stamped or aluminum frames)   The idea being the cheap and easily replaceable buffer take the impact rather than the expensive frame. Bill Wilson was the first "buffer" I recall seeing but their are different companies making them.
However, the 1911 wasn't designed to use a buffer and just adding one could cause the slide to short stroke enough to keep the slide stop from engaging or cause feed jams because the slide is closing before the next round in the mag is in front of the breach face.  If they're not replaced often enough, the buffer could break apart causing a slide stoppage.

Now IMO, the best way to slow the slide down is to increase the dwell time, or, slow down the slide unlocking from the barrel.  Many custom race gun builders have proven time and again, you only need enough recoil spring to close the slide and load the next round.  They have used, to great effect, longer barrels/slides, heavy bull barrels, compensators even threaded on tungsten sleeves or barrel weights.  Even going back to JMBs (God rest his soul) original design of the flat bottom firing pin stop.
However, all these solutions have their own unintended consequences.  Comps are loud and can be finicky on ammo, longer heavier barrels/slides can be nose heavy and unbalanced.  Using a flat bottom FPS makes the slide difficult to rack when the hammers down.

As you can see their is no free lunch and you have to decide where you are willing to compromise.

Now, for me, I prefer a long slide. Yes, it's nose heavy but I love it for full power 10mm.  Thankfully, most production long slides (like your SA and my RIA) are designed to use a standard 5" "Government model" recoil spring.  My RIA (like your SA) has a bull barrel to slow down the barrel/slide unlocking and I've added a flat bottom firing pin stop and a Wolff 26lb mainspring to further slow down the slide.  I use a conventional 18lb Wolff recoil spring on a modified guide rod with a CP brand recoil buffer that I replace every 500 rounds weather it needs it or not.

This gun is an absolute joy to shoot with full power loads, it's way more accurate than I am, (even out at 100 yards) plus, I don't have to drive to the next county to look for my empty brass.

Sorry this so long, I tend to ramble.

Jeff