10mm and Hardcast

Started by Alabusa, June 26 2020 08:47:22 AM MDT

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Alabusa

Hey gang,

Since I have a very good jacketed load, I am now looking for recommendations for a good hardcast source. I want to shoot 200 grain hardcast and am I totally off base to shoot for 1100 fps? Is Blue Dot a good powder for hardcast or is BE-86 a better powder?

This will be my first time loading hardcast so any tips or tricks will be more than appreciated.

sqlbullet

1100 fps is very attainable.  I would pick BE-86 over BlueDot for cleaner burn, but Blue Dot is a solid choice too, and I have certainly burned my share of both.

The biggest thing new comers to the cast bullet world skip is ensuring bullet fit.  This is the cause of leading 90% of the time.  An undersized lead bullet will lead the bore no matter how hard it is.  And a properly fit bullet can be lots softer than most people think and shoot just fine.

To determine what size bullet you need you have to measure your barrel.  Nominal size works fine for copper, but not for lead.  To do this you need a chunk of soft lead that is larger than your barrel's groove diameter.  A large lead fishing weight works well and is easily acquired.  This is driven through the barrel using first a soft rubber or plastic mallet to start the lead through the barrel and then a dowel just smaller than the bore diameter to push the lead through.  When it comes out the lead is measured at it's widest point, and .001" is added.  Your bulllets will need to be this size or larger.

Nominally, you should end up with a .400 chunk of lead, meaning a .401" cast bullet.  But, my Witness pistols run a bit large, and need a .4015-.402" bullet, while my Para Ordnance checks in at .399 requireing a .400 bullet.  I usually do not size my cast bullets for 10mm, leaving them as cast at about .403.  This works OK for all my guns including my Glocks.

If you are buying bullets you will likely will only have the option of .401".  If your barrel checks in at .4005" of smaller, that should be fine.  At .401" measured, then it might work, but it might not.  If you measure over .401" then you will may have a challenge.

I will add that I find BHN of 12-14 to be plenty for 10mm as long as the bullets fit.  And one advantage to this hardness range is you can fudge a little and bump up.  Let me elaborate.

When I started shooting cast bullets I was casting Lee 175 grain SWC bullets. At the time my only 10mm was a Witness.  I had leading with Blue dot loads at 1100 fps, but not with Unique at the same velocity.  Full power Blue Dot loads at 1300 fps were also fine, with no leading.  I had not yet learned to slug my barrels.

As I learned about bullet fit, I measured by Witness barrel and found it to be .4005".  I was sizing my bullets using a .401" nominal sizing die and applying a hardy taper crimp.  Pulling some loaded rounds I found that the taper crimp was stout enough to squeeze the bullets down to just over .400" diameter.

An old-timer at the cast boolits website commented about obturation.  This enlightened me as to what was going on.  Unique, being so much faster than Blue Dot, was reaching peak pressure when producing 1100 fps.  At peak pressure, there was enough force on the bullet to cause it to swell a bit and fit the gun, like an eraser expands a bit when squeezed with pliers.  The Blue Dot load at 1100 fps was not reaching that high of a pressure, so the bullet didn't swell to fit the bore.  When I loaded up hotter Blue Dot loads I solved the problem because I did get enough pressure to swell the bullet to fit.

In the end I reduced the amount of taper crimp, and also honed out the sizing die to make a .401+" bullet.  Once the bullets fit, all issues when away.

Good luck on the journey!

The_Shadow

#2
sqlbullet, has explained a lot of the issues as it pertains to cast bullets.  I will add that care is needed when loading the cast bullets to eliminate any shaving of the bullet material.

Case mouth flare needs to be such that the bullets base can start inside the case...
You will find seating the bullets without any crimp being applied while the bullet is in motion will help get the best seating properties.
Be careful if trying to sued the LEE FCD as the crimp die.  It can over squeezes the bullet to a smaller size that desired. 
After the bullets are seated you can crimp only because the gently presses the case against the bullet with just the slightest taper to ensure the best feed properties, Measured on the very edge of the case mouth 0.4220" - 0.4225" is usually plenty especially with faster powders.  I wouldn't go any more the 0.4215" for the crimp except the jacketed stuff.

Quality lube can also provide properties to help reduce lead from sticking to the bore/rifling.  Many are running Powdered Polymer Paint coated bullets in stead of traditional lube.

Good luck!
The "10mm" I'm Packin', Has The Bullets Wackin', Smakin' & The Slide is Rackin' & Jackin'!
NRA Life Member
Southeast, LoUiSiAna

Alabusa

Thanks for the info guys! I placed an order for some bullets to try and also for the Lyman 4th loading manual.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Jim Bridger

I use the Eastwood Ford Blue and Harbor Frt. Red powder coat on cast bullets. I use the LEE push thru sizer. Shooters may fire bullets at top end velocity with no leading. The PC processes does not require gas checks.

dryflash



I'm just starting with 10mm, been reloading for years.

Powder coating solves the leading issue and Hornady dies now have an expander
that properly expands the case. Just like a Lyman M die.

At present am loading work up loads with several powders.

175 gr bullets shown, looking for a 200 gr mold.

Rick R

Quote from: dryflash on August 06 2020 11:13:14 AM MDT
looking for a 200 gr mold.

This is the 200gr bullet I use, feeds well in the SR1911, accurate in both guns sized to .401", penetrates like an anti-tank round.  It's a little fiddly to speed load in the GP with moonclips due to the size of the meplat.

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/401/403-198-wfn-y1/403-198-wfn-y1-4-cavity-pb

Hold my beer and watch this, Don't try this at home kids, Professional driver on a closed course...

dryflash

#7
Quote from: Rick R on August 06 2020 08:05:18 PM MDT
Quote from: dryflash on August 06 2020 11:13:14 AM MDT
looking for a 200 gr mold.

This is the 200gr bullet I use, feeds well in the SR1911, accurate in both guns sized to .401", penetrates like an anti-tank round.  It's a little fiddly to speed load in the GP with moonclips due to the size of the meplat.

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/401/403-198-wfn-y1/403-198-wfn-y1-4-cavity-pb

Ordered an Arsenal 200 gr mold today. It's a 5 cavity.

cwlongshot

Im shooting a 220g HP bullet past 1250 in my 6" G40 and KKMG20 barrels.   You can quite easilly get 1100 in a 200g!!

Many good powders!!  Just work up slow esp with powders like BD and 800X. Things can happen QUICKLY!

CW
NRA Life Member, NRA Certified Range Officer, NRA Certified Pistol & Shotgun Instructor, NRA Rifle & a Reloading Instructor.

Come join me on RUMBLE! Https://rumble.com/user/cwlongshot

REMEMBER FREEDOM IS NOT FREE!

Muskrat

Underwood 200 grain hard-cast chrono at 1300 from my 6" KKM barrel.

When I hand load the same bullet Underwood uses, I back it down 50fps with Longshot, then discard the brass. At 1200 fps (6" barrel) I'll reuse the brass. Longshot has been the absolute best powder for 200+ grain bullets in my experience.

Blue Dot is second, but not a very close second. 800x is such a pain in the ass to work with that I just gave up...you can go over-max with two flakes of powder, or so it seems. BE-86 puts you off the reservation with a 200 grain bullet, much less a 200 grain lead bullet. Your call, but since there are powders that will get you where you want to go with supported data, I'd maybe start there first?