Quote from: 50BMG on July 11 2018 01:40:23 PM MDT

Quote from: Kenk on July 11 2018 03:58:31 AM MDT
My question as well
Thanks

Quote from: Mike D on July 10 2018 08:36:24 PM MDT

Quote from: sqlbullet on July 03 2018 12:33:17 PM MDT
Yep.  The lighter the slide, the more this is needed.

Pardon my ignorance but how does the firing pin stop affect slide speed?

Hi Mike/Kenk,

I'll give this one a whirl.
Essentially, the original shape/non-chamfered firing pin stop keeps the slide in battery/"locked forward" just a hair longer than the slide equipped with a FP stop which has a more chamfered profile.
This very slight delay allows the barrel to bleed off a little bit more pressure before the slide starts its' motion to the rear. Thus, slower slide speed.
The original shape/non-chamfered firing pin stop does this by allowing the main spring/hammer spring to work more effectively in keeping the slide locked in battery for the slightly longer period because the sharper edge where the stop meets the hammer face makes the initial force required to start the slide moving backward greater.

Get it?

I just received 5 different oversized FP stops from EGW to do this to both of my 10mm 1911's and to 3 of my .45ACP guns of different sizes. If it works as well as I am told, I'll be needing a few more oversized stops to do the rest of my 1911's...

Quote from: sqlbullet on July 11 2018 02:34:04 PM MDT
50BMG nailed it.  The firing pin stop controls where force is applied to the lever relative to the fulcrum.  Sharper corner, closer to the fulcrum, less force multiplication.

I am a reasonably strong guy.  Raised on a farm tossing around 80lb bails of hay and all that.  Worked on a bunch of cars.  Hand and upper body strength is not an issue for me.  Racking the slide on a 1911 with a flat bottom firing pin stop is a bit of a chore for me.

Makes sense.

Thanks Gentlemen.


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So would the firing pin stop apply to the Rock Ultra FS HC 10mm as well?

It is one of the only upgrades/changes I think should be made to ALL 1911's regardless of whether they are having issues or not.

In addition to slowing down the slide, it changes the felt recoil profile to more of a shove than a hit.  The only downside is difficulty in racking the slide when the hammer is down.

Standard capacity, high capacity, new, old, I put flat bottom firing pin stops in them all.

Here is a great article about them.

http://rangehot.com/reduced-radius-firing-pin-stop-1911/

Hey sqlbullet,
Is there a certain one for that weapon I should look for?, as well as who sells them? / the cost
Thanks my Friend

Ken

EGW Series 70 38/9/40:

http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/o/s-firing-pin-stop-ser-70-38/9/40-blue/

Some fitting will be required.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RwFpQQU7HM

Thanks!

Quote from: sqlbullet on July 12 2018 11:47:32 AM MDT
EGW Series 70 38/9/40:

http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/o/s-firing-pin-stop-ser-70-38/9/40-blue/

Some fitting will be required.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RwFpQQU7HM

I finally got a chance to fit the FP stop to my RI 10mm gun last night. It was surprisingly easy. I only needed to remove about .004" total from the width and @ .002" from the thickness to make it fit the slide well.
My only suggestion is to be patient and take it slow so you can be as precise as possible and get the best/tightest fit as possible.
I took out the extractor and got it to fit the slide first, then I replaced the extractor and had to do a minor bit of fitting to make it work from there, but the fitted EGW stop fits WAY nicer than the factory RI one did. I'm happy. now I've gotta shoot!

One thing I noticed last night is that the EGW stop came with a very-very slight "round" to the lower/back edge.
Have you seen the latest EGW iterations sqlbullet? Do you think that factory edge is relieved enough to accommodate the hammer face?
I rounded over the one I did last night just a little bit more than what it came with, but since I have 4 more FP stops to do, I'm wondering if I am over-analyzing this detail and maybe I can get away with how they come???

Thanks man!

The last one I bought was square as square.  Like a milling machine had just cut it.

I radius them about 1/32", but I don't measure it.  I just break the edge two or three times with a fine file, then polish it on some denim.  If I got one that had any break to it at all, I would probably just hit it with some emery cloth and then denim and call it good.

Quote from: sqlbullet on July 17 2018 10:00:55 AM MDT
The last one I bought was square as square.  Like a milling machine had just cut it.

I radius them about 1/32", but I don't measure it.  I just break the edge two or three times with a fine file, then polish it on some denim.  If I got one that had any break to it at all, I would probably just hit it with some emery cloth and then denim and call it good.

Then maybe that's what I'll try on the next one...
There is just a "hair" of a round to it to start with; maybe 1/32" as you suggest. What I ended up adding wasn't much, that's for sure (I did 2 or 3 rounding "drags" across a fine grit file's face; basically just enough to knock the bluing off the edge and round it over a hair more.

I'll try and take a picture of one of the remaning ones to see if it has the same amount of factory edge rounding as the one I did last night. Maybe EGW is doing this little bit of work for us now?

Quote from: 50BMG on July 17 2018 01:48:32 PM MDT
Maybe EGW is doing this little bit of work for us now?

Maybe.   

I did the Delta Elite FP stop mod. this evening.
Turned out to be an even easier job than the RIA 10mm I did last night since I didn't need to change the thickness dimension on this one at all and I only needed to narrow down the overall width by @ .002".
It was barely a one beer job.
Nice and snug fit with zero movement side to side (that's what she said! LoL..)


I took a picture of the EGW oversized stop before filing it to make it fit and it does appear that there already is a very slight radius machined into the lower edge of them as supplied.
See what you think:




Since radius of that edge is very, very slight, I also gave this one a few drags across a file to round it over a little bit more, but still not a lot.
Also, even though I still have the heavier recoil springs in both guns, I haven't really noticed a huge difference in the start-up force needed to manually get the slides moving back from the battery position.
I'm hoping that I'll be able to knock down the recoil spring weights by a few pounds after seeing what happens when I put a few full-house loads through them.

Tomorrow night, my Para P.14 Hi-Cap .45ACP gets its' new stop.

Yeah...That amount of break is what I shoot for.  I would install that.

Quote from: sqlbullet on July 18 2018 08:02:50 AM MDT
Yeah...That amount of break is what I shoot for.  I would install that.

O-Tay Bankie,
I'll try that on the next 2...

Ok, my Para P14.45 and Colt Defender are both now sporting EGW FP stops.
All the EGW stops were of excellent quality and 100% uniform out of the 6 I ordered. As sqlbullet surmised, the radius
on the factory machined lower edge seems to be just fine too.

I think it's interesting that both of my Colt guns (Delta & sub-officer's size Defender) didn't require any thickness alterations to get the oversized FP stops to fit while the RIA and Para guns needed a small amount of filing for thickness. I have a stainless Commander sized Colt I'll probably end up doing at some time, so hopefully that one will follow suit and be as easy as the other 2.

The 3" Defender is marked as a "90's Series" gun, so that one required me to file the lower tab of the new FP stop for width by @ .040" to clear the more inboard mounting position of the ejector on that one. If I didn't have to do this, I literally would have been done fitting the FP stop on this one in about 5 minutes!

Another thing I noticed between all 4 guns done thus far.
The only one with a noticeable increase in start-up force to manually rack the slide is the Para 14.45 with its standard 16# recoil and mainspring.
With the 10mm guns, which are still sporting pretty heavy recoil springs, I really don't feel a ton if any difference in initial racking force. The Defender, with its super short comparatively low mass slide and the naturally heavier dual recoil spring which goes along with that also seems to hide the extra start up force which realistically should be there.
I honestly think it's just a matter that I'm expecting the greater racking force already, so I just get it done.
I guess it could also be an incremental thing where the extra force required is dictated by the fulcrum point which is the same for all 4 types/calibers. Adding that small/constant increment to a lower force setup is more noticable than it would be when added to a system which requires much greater force to operate.

Can't wait to shoot!