Quote from: Mike_Fontenot on September 02 2015 01:40:00 PM MDT

Quote from: dan10mmman on September 02 2015 11:13:55 AM MDT

Give that man a cigar......I almost forgot that I can shoot 40's out of my 10mm

Requires a different barrel, I think, for semi-autos.  It's not like a revolver, that can shoot smaller-length cartridges that have the same diameter, without any changes.

While it isn't recommended, most semi-auto 10mm's will fire .40SW just fine without a hitch. A certain level of caution is advised, if you do. I also shoot .40SW out of my RBH 10mm cylinder, although not often (it's a PITA).

My Omega was designed to fire both.  In my personal testing, all my 10mm's will eat 40S&W.  I may not recommend you trying it, but I did. Not one single problem after multiple mags.

Quote from: DM1906 on September 02 2015 01:49:32 PM MDT

While it isn't recommended, most semi-auto 10mm's will fire .40SW just fine without a hitch.

My comment was based on my (limited) understanding that a rimless semi-auto round headspaces on the forward end of the case being stopped by a reduction in the chamber diameter at the proper point.  A shorter round of the same diameter will just continue into the chamber, rather than being held essentially flush with the aft end of the chamber.  Rimmed revolver rounds are held in position by the rim, which is too large in diameter to go into the chamber.  I THINK that a revolver that shoots rimless rounds requires the use of moon-clips to prevent the cases from going too far into the chamber.

Although theoretically correct, in the real world the cartridge is held to the rear by the extractor. The Omega has two of them to ensure a tight hold.  Maybe not the best idea to put the strain on such a small part but it does seem to work.
The RBH [Ruger Black Hawk] mentioned earlier is a single action pistol so no moon clips going to work there. All the revolvers I have had experience with, those firing rimless shells without moon clips can be hard and slow to reload. 

Quote from: Mike_Fontenot on September 02 2015 02:05:07 PM MDT

Quote from: DM1906 on September 02 2015 01:49:32 PM MDT

While it isn't recommended, most semi-auto 10mm's will fire .40SW just fine without a hitch.

My comment was based on my (limited) understanding that a rimless semi-auto round headspaces on the forward end of the case being stopped by a reduction in the chamber diameter at the proper point.  A shorter round of the same diameter will just continue into the chamber, rather than being held essentially flush with the aft end of the chamber.

Most semi-auto handguns don't really work that way. They don't place the round into the chamber, followed by the breach (which wouldn't work for shorter rounds, as you understand). The breach of the closing action contacts the cartridge head, pushing it forward, toward the chamber. As the cartridge begins centering in the chamber, the case head slides up the breach, engaging the extraction groove onto the extractor. Unless the extractor is excessively worn, or the case head is damaged, the extractor will retain the cartridge firm against the breach. This also occurs with the correct caliber cartridge as well, as nearly every case is not actually the full length of the chamber. There are a couple drawbacks of "short" ammo, though. The round can't be "dropped" into the chamber then action closed. The case head would be ahead of the extractor, and the cartridge would enter the chamber too far to be fired. Also, with the excessive headspace, it would have excessive freebore, affecting consistency, reduces initial chamber pressure, and increases chamber fouling (this is the advised caution).

QuoteRimmed revolver rounds are held in position by the rim, which is too large in diameter to go into the chamber.  I THINK that a revolver that shoots rimless rounds requires the use of moon-clips to prevent the cases from going too far into the chamber.

While this is essentially correct, moon-clips aren't the only solution, and moon-clips are VERY impractical for use in a S/A revolver. I use O-rings in the extraction groove of .40SW to headspace them in my Ruger Blackhawk Buckeye Special 10mm cylinder. As I said, it's a PITA to mess with, so I don't do it often. It has no real practical purpose, other than it can be done if necessary.

Quote from: DM1906 on September 02 2015 03:01:07 PM MDT
As the cartridge begins centering in the chamber, the case head slides up the breach, engaging the extraction groove onto the extractor.
[...]
I use O-rings in the extraction groove of .40SW to headspace them in my Ruger Blackhawk Buckeye Special 10mm cylinder.

Thanks ... and thanks to Dan10mmMan for his comments as well.  I can see how both of those alternatives work (at least approximately) for headspacing.

Quote from: pacapcop on August 19 2015 06:31:25 PM MDT
Like Sahara Palin said. "I Like Em All"

   

I'd say for me, 45 ACP but I am looking into 45 Super for carbines and 1911s 
Also got a bunch of reasonable priced 9mm NATO for carbines, that should do
just fine for some extra "stank" but still be OK for longevity. 

Exotics? I do not have anything that I'd call exotic, (like 460R)  or even a
good wheel gun, yet. I stand to inherit some nice S&W revolvers from Dad,
but I'm in no hurry for that! I can shoot them anytime I want 

10mm in my 1006 and 610,the 610 also shoots the 40S&W for equivalency to reduced 10mm loads,
so after 10mm would be,
41 Magnum
357 Magnum
44 Magnum
9mm
38 special

I reload for all the above so I can reload from mild to 'nuclear'.
I don't hunt,just range use.
Always use lightest bullets for highest velocity and flattest trajectory to 100 yds.
9mm use 90gr 380 bullets
38sp use 110gr bullets
357M use 110-125gr bullets
40S&W/10mm use 155-165gr bullets
41M use 170gr bullets
44M use 180gr bullets

Quote from: oldman10mm on December 27 2015 09:17:48 AM MST
[...]
[a]lways use lightest bullets for highest velocity and flattest trajectory to 100 yds.
[...]
44M use 180gr bullets

I use those too (Underwood's), in my S&W69 that I often carry as primary.  I also mix them with some 240gr Underwood XTP's, just to insure complete penetration on at least some of the 5 shots.  I don't use those 180gr bullets while the bears are awake, though.

I also mix bullet weights in each magazine of my 10mm 1911 when it has the primary-carry duties: 150gr, 180gr, and 200gr DoubleTap Noslers ... I like to hedge my bets on the penetration/expansion trade-off.

I own what I want (so far). I have been experimenting with the 7.62 X 25. I think the Russians made a mistake by letting the cartridge go. Powerful, accurate controllable. It works well and tears the living daylights out of lighter game fast! I want to play with the hollowpoints being offered in the cartridge at military speeds.

Don't need to buy a new piece to enjoy it.

9mm

If they were a bit more wide spread, a round like a 22 TCM or the 5.7x28 has my interest.  Problem is you would have to shoot an FN or a 1911 to give them a shot.

Greg

.45acp please. If I don't have my G29sf for some reason, then my G30sf.

6.8SPCII

9mm or .45acp if were talking handguns. .223/5.56 in rifles.