Does anyone have any experience with the Stock II in 10mm? I have been drooling over one for a while. I am friends with someone sponsored by Tanfoglio but he shoots the 9mm version. I love the 10, but wondered if anyone had any real experience with it. Also, what about shooting 40s&w in it? I shoot some in my G29 on occasion. Thanks!

I have an elite match.  Intercooler has several Tanfoglio guns from the elite line.  The general consensus is all the Elite series guns are good, solid performers for the money.

Excellent piece of metal and wood. You can't go wrong with them at all. They are highly regarded and StockIIBoss can relay his experiences as well.

I have an elite match several calibers. I have a limited pro in several calibers. My 10 mm is the most accurate. I can attest that you just simply need a 40 barrel to convert the 10 mm pistol.
I highly recommend the tanfoglio pistols from the match models on up.

The match is single action correct?  Can it be changed to da/sa? I know a lot of the parts are interchangeable,  but then it may not qualify for USPSA production anyway.

    It can be converted to DA/SA. Have you looked at a Limited Pro? It's also DA/SA with a 4.75" barrel. It's what I use for all my 10mm ammo testing to couple with my 6" Super Match (custom Hunter).

I have one but waited to post until I had actually had a chance to shoot it. As you've probably seen and heard, it's really purty. Very tight and fitment could be found in a much higher priced gun. There are some very, very minor things I would pick on if it were a $3,000 custom. Like minor scuffing/pit where they installed the safety and slide release. I hope I'm relaying how minor it really is, I'm very pleased. The trigger is good (I have not polished or done anything other than cleaning) but not the best. DA is what it is and I've got several that are better. SA is above average on mine, but nothing to just brag on. Reset is decently average and take up is better than average. No creep or grittiness in it, very smooth. Accuracy I'll withhold final comment on just yet. I've only shot it the once at an indoor range that was poorly lit. With the solid black sights on a black bullseye target, this combined to make it difficult to judge. Off hand was decent so I can see potential. I've painted the front sight with some nail polish for the next outing before I change anything. My personal preference is black rear with a fiber optic front. No failures of any kind, however I only ran 50 rds of lite (PRVI) and 15 of full power Underwoods. Not exactly what you'd call a test. I could definitely feel the Underwoods allowing some frame 'slap' so I have some heavier springs coming. The other issue is with the mags. They are the new ones with the black followers. One held 13 & the other 14. When filled to these counts, the mag swelled enough that it would not fully insert. I did some very minor grinding (yes, on a new gun) at the sharp edge of the inner magwell and now it works as it should. The operation and part groups are fairly basic, which I like and will be familiar. The safety isn't really firm with its feedback, but easily operated. It makes a great thumbshelf for a high hold. The large beavertail helps you get up there with a firm hold as well. I have not done any speed mag changes, but the release button is very easy to find and operate. There are some negatives in there, but I'm very pleased with it to this point and expect it to be exactly what I expected and then some.

I would say save the heavy springs and order up a flat bottom firing pin stop from hennings.

Quote from: sqlbullet on April 07 2015 05:22:15 PM MDT
I would say save the heavy springs and order up a flat bottom firing pin stop from hennings.

More info please? Explanation?

I tend to be in a minority often, but I am not a fan of heavier recoil springs.  For one, if you look at your slide and frame, they have lots of metal in the areas where they come together under recoil.  A slide running fast back into battery because of a heavy recoil spring puts a bunch of stress on parts that aren't so much built for it.  This is very critical on a 1911 where that force is on the link and link pin.  Less so on the Witness where the link is machined into the barrel.  And not hardly a consideration on the Glock where geometry pushes that force into equally heavy frame and slide parts.

Excess slide velocity is best mitigated in a 1911 with a flat bottom firing pin stop.  It decreases the leverage the slide has over the hammer, and eats up momentum right at the start of slide movement lowering the slide velocity a good bit.

Henning made up a bunch of them for Witness guns.  I don't think it is a catalog item, but if you call him you can get one.  The cone-trol guide rod is a good add too, as it better spreads the recoil energy into the frame over a wider area.

  Get the rod and flat bottom block, but also get a spring. The pistol is undersprung out of the box and a 20lb will make it work better without issue. Over the years or shooting hot ammos I can't see anything that was damaged due to the 20lb spring. Keep a spare on-hand and swap it out if you ever run into a hiccup. That is usually the sign that a fresh spring is needed.

A couple of things of note:
1st) Thanks for the flat bottom pin stop suggestion. I had not put two and two together. I had a 1911 that was my tinkerer a while back and learned a little about the concept. It hadn't dawned on me that it could help that much in my setting. I did quit a bit of searching and reading last night after your suggestion and am willing to run some trials. I did e-mail Henning last night and already received a response from him this morning. He stated, "I currently don't have it, we will be making them again. Stay tuned online ;-)".

2nd) I knew the Stock II had the full length dust cover and square trigger guard, but was unaware of any other differences. While looking at his (Henning) site last night and looking at the new guide rod, I may have noticed another. In his photo showing why he came up with the new guide rod, it shows (the photo is pretty dark) just two 'tabs' coming up from the frame to support this guide rod. Those were hammered back which is why he came up with it. In mine, it also has tabs (not proper word, notches, catches?) on the side as well and is more fully supported compared to what he showed. Is that inherent in all of the Elite line or is it something new? I can get a picture later if I'm not making sense.

3rd) The 20# spring is what I had ordered, but kept it in my 'cart' to go with a backorder I had already with Midway to help on shipping. I am still debating on an 18# instead or also, to play with and see differences. I may try matching the 18 to the pin stop and see how that reacts.