I am not aware of a Glock actually needing any 3rd party parts either.  What is nice is that there are an abundance of aftermarket options available for those that want to customize their Glocks to fit their individual preference.  In my opinion, a Glock is an excellent firearm that fits most peoples needs with no customization.  There are those, like myself, that like to tinker with things to try to personalize and optimize their Glocks.  I'd prefer to own a firearm that I can easily and affordably modify over one that is limited or expensive to customize.

Driftwood , I couldn't have said it any better. Very straight forward and honest post. +++1

Quote from: gandog56 on March 21 2013 10:55:59 AM MDT
Jeeze, all these people with Glocks wanting a 3rd party barrel. I have 2 10mm pistols, both of them 1911's. A 5" Dan Wesson Razorback, and a 6" Fusion Firearms custom built long slide.

No third party barrels needed!

You're using your custom built long slide as an example to mock people wanting a custom 6" barrel in their Glocks? Am I missing something? 

Quote from: gandog56 on March 21 2013 10:55:59 AM MDTJeeze, all these people with Glocks wanting a 3rd party barrel. I have 2 10mm pistols, both of them 1911's. A 5" Dan Wesson Razorback, and a 6" Fusion Firearms custom built long slide.

No third party barrels needed!

True, but there are still reasons some of us choose the Glock platform regardless, and on top of that we're still money ahead.  Will the Glocks ever have a trigger pull like the trigger pulls on your DW or Fusion?  No.  But there's always give and take.

Why I own a G20 over any of the 1911 style platforms regardless of cost (not necessarily in this order):

a)  No manual safetys.
b)  No break in period needed.
c)  15 round capacity per mag.
d)  Half the cost (or less) to buy new.
e)  Blacked out color scheme and nonreflective.
f)  Less weight (G20=27.7oz., RZ-10=38.4oz.)
g)  Way less moving parts, and less parts overall (34 component parts).
h)  Extremely rarely ever needs to be "tuned" no matter what you put it through.
i)  More than acceptable accuracy from a platform designed with slop in it to run no matter what.
j)  All major steel components are treated in a super hard coating with excellent corrosion resistance.
k)  Even when gummed up or filthied up with sand and/or mud it will usually keep shooting without skipping a beat.
l)  Parts that are commonly far less expensive to replace or upgrade when and if any part ever needs replacing or someone wants to upgrade.


That said, I'm well aware why others like yourself choose what they do and would never dis you for it.  I'm just happy all these options exist!

The G20 is a great gun in stock form.  It doesn't NEED anything.  All modifications that I make are for fun, and to tailor the gun for a specific use.

In my case, I plan on hunting (or at least, attempting to!) mule deer with this gun.  A 6" barrel provides some additional velocity out at 50 yards.  Is it necessary?  Probably not.  As a bonus, the aftermarket barrel provides some more life to brass for reloading.

When the gun is used for defensive purposes it will always have the stock barrel in it.  I think that the factory barrel will feed rounds dropped in the mud if needed. 

I have also smoothed out the trigger a bit.  I have carefully fitted a Ghost Rocket 3.5 lb. connector, increased power trigger spring, and reduced power safety plunger spring.  All mating surfaces were carefully polished.  I did not install a reduced power striker spring because it can lead to light strikes and reduced reliability.   

The factory trigger is fine, I have been shooting factory Glock triggers for years and have learned to use them well.  This is the first time that I have changed anything on any Glock that I own.  I just thought it would be a fun project, and since I plan on shooting at longer ranges with this gun, any small improvement would be helpful.  Anyone that has watched Hickok45's videos knows what can be done with a box-stock Glock trigger and some practice. 

All of my other Glocks are box-stock, and I don't plan on changing them at all.


Why did I choose a G20 vs. 1911 style gun? 
1.  Familiarity and consistency.  My main guns are Glocks and am familiar with their trigger, feel, sights, and function.  My muscle memory carries over.  No new training is needed.  This is a BIG deal to me.
2.  Cost.  A G20 for $550 is cheaper than most 1911 style guns (especially the good ones!)
3.  Reliability.  A factory G20 can handle the full-power ammo and do so for a long time.  They run 100% in stock form, clean or dirty.  Parts are cheap and easily available.
4.  Weight.  G20 with 15 rounds weighs the same as most steel 1911s empty.

However, I do understand why some would prefer a 1911 style 10mm.  If you are proficient with 1911 style pistols and own several, it makes sense to stick with that platform.  The G20 (even the SF) is a CHUNKY gun vs. the 1911 style.  And, the Glock trigger will never be as crisp as a finely tuned 1911 trigger.

Very well defended, gentlemen.  I have both platforms, among others, and like all my weapons nearly equally.  I shoot what I like, and like what I shoot.  I've modified many of them for specific purposes, and some because of the "cool" factor (for me, not you), because I can.  Add to that, in some states, minimum barrel lengths are required for hunting.  It isn't about which is better, or "having" to modify one to make it comparable to the other.  If it shoots when it should, where it should, it's a good gun.  Period.

I have both.  I prefer a 1911.  In most respects a bone stock Colt Gov't model with a park finish escapes the majority of the criticism heaped by the Glock fanboys.  It does have a manual safety, which I personally see as an advantage.  It only holds 7 rounds, can't argue that.  Tenifer is better than Park, by some.

Old arguments.  I carry both over the span of a few days.

I have both also, and like them each for what they are. I like the 1911 for it's accuracy (if it's well tuned), good trigger, and the feel of it in my hand. I like the Glock for it's utilitarian no-frills design, and it's strength and reliability. Truth is, I'm more fond of a full size steel frame 1911, but carry a G19 every day, because it's a better modern fighting pistol, and use a G20 for my 10mm platform because I feel it's the strongest and most capable in the 10mm full-power realm.

I don't remember if I'd posted a pic of my P16 on here before - this one was technically a 40, but with the long throated barrel, I often long-loaded to 10mm specs, just using 40 S&W brass. I no longer have this one, but it was a sweet shooter. The round in the pic is a 220gr WFN at 1.260" for 1190 fps.

Lovely gun.  One of my carry guns is a P16-40, but mine is converted to 10mm.

Quote from: Yondering on March 22 2013 02:24:21 PM MDT
I don't remember if I'd posted a pic of my P16 on here before - this one was technically a 40, but with the long throated barrel, I often long-loaded to 10mm specs, just using 40 S&W brass.

You WHAT!

Dood that is so unsafe . I'm so surprised your gun did not blow apart. Please other people....NEVER do this no matter how strong you think the gun is!

Why did you not go with a factory 6" Glock barrel?
I have nothing against the aftermarket barrels I am just curious why you did not see that as an option.

Quote

You WHAT!

Dood that is so unsafe . I'm so surprised your gun did not blow apart. Please other people....NEVER do this no matter how strong you think the gun is!

I have to echo this post. Under no circumstances should you load a caliber using the data of another caliber.
Loading a .40 S&W to 10mm Auto specs is a recipe for a catastrophic failure. Keep in mind with the smaller case capacity if loaded to the same powder charge the .40 will have much greater pressure than the 10mm.
I too am surprised your gun did not turn into a bomb. 

I will have to come to Yondering's defense here, what he is doing is loading the bullets LONG (throated chamber allowed the bullets to be seated as such), this gives him back the case capacity with a little less bullet tension.  His gun was setup for this round as loaded, which worked at the 10mm specs.  Proper powder selection and bullet tension to prevent set-backs were the key to performance in that set-up...This type of thing is not for anyone to just start pushing 40S&W to 10mm specs, so I agree that CAUTION and proper understanding of what's involved are crucial to loading as described...

Ditto The_Shadow.  Nothing wrong with what Yondering is doing.  If you don't fully understand the concept, backed by years/decades of experience, don't do it.

Shadow and DM1906 are correct about my post above. Nothing dangerous or scary about loading 40 long; loading to "10mm specs" includes OAL, if you missed that in my post.

For those who don't understand, but might want to, this picture shows a long loaded 40 S&W next to a 10mm, both loaded to 1.260" with the same 180gr FMJ bullet. Powder capacity is the same for both. The differences are lower neck tension for the long loaded 40, and the smaller primer, these result in lower pressure and about 50 fps less velocity, compared to the same load in the 10mm case.