I have been shooting glocks for about 8 years. They have always started off high for me but even when high the groups were still pretty tight. Any ideas what could be going on with this specific gun? Has anyone noticed any quality control issues with newer glocks like you see on a lot of different firearms now adays? I think I'm going to try the mgsl and a lonewolf barrel. That should fix some issues but I just don't understand why there are accuracy issues in the first place. Thanks for the help guys.

I checked the slide stop on my 20sf and the wear seams to be very consistent in a line straight across the back. I still might try a mgsl. I was shooting extreme 180 grain round nose bullets also so I don't think under size bullets is my problem. I'm pretty confident in my shooting abilities to the point where a 6" group at only 10 yards is a problem with the gun. What else could be wrong with it? Is there a such thing as a bad barrel? I did put a 22 lb recoil spring in it with a lonewolf ss guildrod. Could this do anything to the accuracy?

I have had my glock 20 for a few months now. It's is a gen 3. When I first got it it was shooting about a foot high at 20 yards. No big deal because every new glock I have ever had shot high for me. I'm about 400!rounds through it now and it elevation had settled down but there is something not right with accuracy. I have shot extreme copper plated bullets 180 run over 6 grains tightgroup. I have also shot nosler 135 jhp over 12.5 bluedot. These are just random powder charges out of a book, no accuracy load worked up. I for the life of me can't get this gun to shoot. I used to have a glock 30 standard frame and I shot tha scary accurate so I know it's not the fatter grip of th 10mm tha is throwing me off especially because this is a short frame. I have always just thrown together target loads for handguns using a couple grains under max and never had any accuracy issues from glocks, 1911, or revolvers. Today just to compare I shot 5 shots through my 23 at 10 yards and they were in 1.5-2" group dead center. Then took the 20sf with the nosler loads and shot 5 shots after dry firing to get used to the 20sf trigger again. Those 5 shots went into about a 5-6" group at 10 yards. I could shoot a tighter more consistent group with a snub nose. The 20 has quite a bit longer sight radius than the 23 also which should help with accuracy. It's not recoil that's causing me to shoot like this because I can stack bullets on top I each other with my 3" .44 mag. I hope that covers everything. Please help if you have any advice. Thanks.

I searched and can't find anything about that. What should I type into the text box?

Thanks a lot for the help intercooler.

I am computer/phone illiterate. Is there someone I can email them to who could post them for me?

It's telling me the pictures are too big coming from my iPhone. How do I post them?

I have killed some hogs in Florida with a glock 23 with black talons. This is my first time trying whitetail with a handgun. It is a North Carolina button buck. Nothing too special. The shot was 25 yards with a stock glock 20 except for a 22 lb recoil spring. I haven't had much time to play with loads. The only bullets I have been able to get ahold of are nosler 135 jhp. I put them over 12.5 grains of bluedot. Didn't work up any load of any sort it is just a book max. Took the shot and he ran about 15-20 yards into the tree line and I heard him crash. Waited about 10minutes and went to go look for him. We'll I guess I didn't wait long enough because I kicked him up and tracked him for 50-75 yards through the thickest stuff you could imagine. There was blood everywhere including pieces of lung tissue. This second picture is the entrance hole. I will post the exit hole also. I just don't understand all the craziness people talk about with heavy hard cast bullets needed and bonded bullets. I have read many times that 135 jhp is way too light for deer. The picture I will post of the shoulder area is the entrance wound. He was shot on his left side. As you can see the bullet did massive amounts of damage early upon entry and still penitrated all the way through.  I understand this Is pretty small deer but I feel like the same thing would have happens on a big Midwestern buck. (I'm from missouri). I don't know what else you can ask for. Both the heart and lungs were destroyed and a blood trail a blind man could follow. All I'm saying is I think people get too worked up about what bullet at what velocity is used. Especially a lot of internet experts. I don't mean any offense to anyone by that statement. All I'm saying is if you put a bullet where it is supposed to be and it reaches the vitals, it is going to die.  I hope theses  results and pictures are informative for you.
Thanks for reading,
Arrow

Have on backer dee some 200 grain xtp an longshot but for now can only find 135 noslers and bluedot. Not finding anything on hot loads for this. Anybody have any loads they want to share?

Well that is not what I was thinking. I would think the magnum would be for very hot loads to help ignite the large charge of powder and that it could be too much for a light 10mm load. What I am asking is what primer should I buy that will work from light loads all the way to nuclear loads.

By going with the cci magnums would I run into any problems with any 10mm loads?

I'm new here and new to 10mm loading. I have been loading range ammo and using Winchester large pistol primers which work as standard and magnum they say. I'm looking to getting started in loading so hot stuff and have always used cci's for hot revolver rounds and would like to do the same with 10mm. For longshot and anywhere from 135 to 200 grain bullets should I use standard or magnum. Sorry if this has been discussed in the past. Thanks

i am new to 10mm reloading but am pretty advanced in other reloading areas. I have done a lot of research on hot 10mm hand loading. I understand the part of checking for pressure signs by measuring case expansion and to always start low and work up. I have read that people are getting about .433" expansion out of a stock 20 barrel like I am using. So how do you know when you have too much expansion for your barrel. 

I see swamp fox's load for a 200 xtp is 9.4 gr longshot. If he was selling this load to be shot in all 10mm guns is there any reason I wouldn't be able to safely load this in new starline brass?  Also does anyone know what the seating depth was for this load? Can this load be fired more than one firing in starline brass?

Same thing with the fully supported chamber load. If I drop a lonewolf barrel in my 20sf is there any reason why I couldn't safely load up the 9.7 grain load? As always when pushing the limits, weigh each charge out. 

Thanks