Due to the gen4 being a little rare you can probably get what you have into it or maybe more.

Were you there? I was standing not but 20ft from this guy during the speech.

I was using my LNL AP for some 10mm

Here is the breakdown
10mm Hornady XTP 180gr
10.2gr blue dot (pretty conservative, I already did my build up from 9.6)
CCI 300
Aiming for 1.255 OAL

Station 1 - RCBS size and decap
(prime)
Station 2 - powder through/bell
Station 3 - empty
Station 4 - Redding competition seater die
Station 5 - RCBS seat/TC die with seater plug removed. So its just taking out bell

Charges are perfect, but the Hornady PTX is rough and inconsistently belling, so I remove it, set it up new, and bell with an RCBS belling die

While running cartridges, I am getting lengths all over the place. 1.255 as a nominal, and the ups and downs going from 1.265-1.250
After running a bunch, picking out the good ones, I figured I would tune them with the redding competition seating die in my single stage to fix them. Simple right? NO
I unscrew the redding die from the LNL bushing and set it up fresh on the LNL classic. After dialing in to 1.255 on a round....my next rounds are going nuts.
I am getting no movement before and after running them on some, and on some getting movement all the way to 1.240 and up to 1.260.

Another note, at the end of the AP run, I put cases in the sizing die to keep the plate even. So that isn't a factor in this case

Quote from: Rick1987 on January 20 2013 06:12:40 AM MST
I guess I am the opposite. I hate safeties on my gun, to me they are just one more thing that needs to be done. And one more thing to get in the way.

I keep my G20 with one in the pipe. As long as you keep your finger off the trigger it will never go off.

I am like this too

After messing with it this weekend not a fan. I will keep it for pass thru

The inline fabrication light kit is the balls too. I got the one with the optional ceiling light add on

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Which way is the floating crimp bushing supposed to go in? There is a small end with a good 45 degree chamfer and looking at the drawing it looks like that goes into the case mouth,but it seems the end with the large taper diameter goes into the case mouth.

Hey all, I just got the Lee FCD. I took off the Lee O ring lock ring. Any idea why the o ring?

Also, running the case in, no problem. On the way out, the round hesitates then jumps and pops out, making the downstroke less smooth. Anyone experience this?

Wow that is a lot of crimp.

He was using Starline and I know Starline will mark the brass with anything you want if you buy a lot of it. Maybe he started getting his name on it?

Also, a couple light primer strikes related to the ftf's.

I also had 1 round that recoiled significantly less, and was alot quieter, but it didnt squib when I checked the bbl after field stripping.

This morning I shot my newly built up G20 for hunting. It is a gen 3 G20, polished internal trigger parts, "-" connector, KKM 6" bbl, L&M Precision Gunworks mounted RMR 3.25 MOA, Wolff guide rod and springs.

I shot 50 rounds of Undwerwood  220gr hardcast from 3 different magazines. In total I had 5 FTF's. All 5 were in the same magazine, and it fed most of the way, but didnt totally lock into battery. I used only the Wolff 24# spring, which flung brass 15-25 ft away.

Another oddball thing, about 50% of the time across all 3 magazines, before the last round would load, the slide would lock open. The round was never stripped from the mag, and the slide lock engaged. Any ideas what would cause this?

Accuracy was crazy. Same hole, over and over again from a rest at 50 ft.

My rig for the coming season:
G20 6" KKM BBL
Sending it out for slide milling, RMR, BUIS

I am thinking of the RM06 (3.25 MOA). Any feedback on this dot size? My eyes are pretty good with glasses. Longest shot in my area would be 25 yards up to 50 yards in one unlikely spot

I am thinking of buying a 21SF lower only and getting a mechtech 10mm upper for it. Anyone do this?