Quote from: John A. on August 27 2022 11:21:47 AM MDT
I really hope that you aren't upset that I said anything.  That wasn't my intention.

I never thought about it either until all this shortage crap has came along again and I started looking into for myself, and for the same reasons you have to be honest. 

But, that's the info that kept coming up because large rifle primers are a little longer than large pistol primers.  For that alone, is why they may stick out too far and cause problems.

No, we're good.  I remember reading the  same thing and I just kind of forgot about it.  It is not an easy thing to seat those primers.  In a lot of cases, it probably can't be done and that creates a hazard.  It's too bad that this situation with reloading supplies exists.  I think the anti-gun establishment is not helping anything with their policies and actions.  They are constantly scaring people into impulse buying things and it's generally against their own anti-gun sentiments.  e.g., Joe Biden says he wants to ban AR-15s.  What do people do?  They run out and buy an AR-15.  They also buy ammunition, maybe even a press and reloading supplies.  These constant threats against the 2nd Amendment create these hoarding and supply shortage situations, at least that's how it looks to me.

John A. above says that LR primers shouldn't be used in pistol cases as they can slam fire.  That's all it took for me to walk away from the whole thing.  I don't want to have anything to do with something that can cause unintentional firing.  Lawyers can be snakes.   We all know primers should be seated flush or slightly under flush in any ammunition loaded. You never want primers sticking out for a number of reasons, for one thing, they can keep a slide from locking into full battery, for another, they can stop a cylinder from rotating, cause a slam fire in some guns, cause feeding or magazine problems, they can also jam up a progressive press and hang up in a shell holder, etc.  But for my own well being I should probably keep my ideas and information to myself.  Lawyers and prosecutors these days see everything and anything as a source of liability and I want none of it.

For whatever it's worth, probably not much, I am able to seat the LR primers with my hand priming tool so they are flush with the head and I check every round when I seat the primer by placing it on a flat surface.  If it doesn't rock and stands solid, it's flush.  You can further check that by running a straight edge across the bottom, if it doesn't hang up, it's flush.  But that's just me.  I'm not recommending any particular practice to anyone.

I'm taking this posting down due to safety concerns.

I picked up some 160 gr PFN bullets a while back.  I see a lot of data for 155 and 165 grain bullets, but nothing for 160 gr.  Does anyone load these and have any suggestions?  I've just been winging it using the 165 gr data as a guide.  Thanks

When I run into a tight pocket like this I just chamfer the edge slightly with a small, cheap box cutter.  It works fine.  You just need to get rid of that constricting edge so the primer can start.  There are a few brands of case that have these tight primer pocket edges.

Quote from: Patriot on February 16 2022 07:08:09 AM MST
Sounds like your friend overcharged or double charged a round during reloading. It happens.

I've used underwood, buffalo bore, double tap, for years in my Glocks. Never had an issue.

I try to visually inspect the powder level of every round that goes through the process. I use a couple of old Lee Pro 1000s, the primer stage is where trouble starts with this kind of press, they fail to drop, or run out, or jam up, something.  So, I resize and  deprime all the cases first progressively, then prime by hand, then flare, charge, and seat and crimp bullets progressively.  It takes a little longer but glitches and problems are basically non-existent this way and the finished product is one I trust.  It still goes pretty fast since the two stages are both done with a case feeder and progressively, and hand priming goes fast too, plus, there is no down time with bad loads or cases leaking powder because of no primer or any other kind of glitchiness. It's basically trouble free this way.

Their prices are crazy.  I've seen primer prices that are ridiculous too.  Thank Biden administration.

Quote from: Kenk on April 02 2022 10:08:15 PM MDT
So what would be a desired crimp on say, a 180gr XTP 10mm?, I use a standalone hornady crimp die, and always make two final checks before completing a batch of ammo;
make sure the case has not become deformed due to over crimping, and do the standard plunk test in my LE Wilson case gauge. I have never measured my crimps, but is something I?d like to start doing. Also, not measuring has never caused me any issues, but would like to start
Thanks

Ken

It takes a little while to do the extra step, but I plunk test every round with my 10mm.   I have a Double Diamond barrel that was pretty tight chambered, I polished it  a bit and it's still pretty tight but now I have no feeding or malfunction problems with all rounds passing plunk test with a moderate crimp around .422- .423". The last thing you want is a jammed, stuck round partway  in the chamber when things go dicey nor embarrassment at the range.   Factory ammo is non-existent around here, and it's ridiculously expensive to order, so I plunk test  every round and I inspect powder level in the case every round before seating a bullet.  You don't need an excessive crimp, just enough to so the rounds plunk in and fall right out.  If they stick at all, it's not enough. 

I recently picked one of these up for G20, mainly because I got it for nothing with my reward bucks.  Does anyone else use one of these, and if so, what do you think of it?
https://www.opticsplanet.com/fab-defense-scorpus-m1-holster-w-level-1-retention.html

 OK, I actually  did this, I repeated the pencil test with a 10mm dummy round with the same bullet and another fired primer.  Honestly, the result was different.  I felt no impact on the pencil and the pencil did not move that I could see, so evidently this dummy round case was headspacing on the mouth or bullet ledge and it could not move appreciably.   It also made a seriously deep dent in the primer after a couple of tries, so no doubt the primer gets a much more substantial blow when the  case is not able to move forward much or at all.  Whether or not 40 S&W cases fired in a 10mm pistol are causing any damage to the extractor is still debatable.  For ultimate reliability, you would definitely want to use the designated cartridge with the designated primers

There is a very simple experiment you can do, which I was inspired to do by the old trick of putting a pencil down the barrel of a 1911 to see how much force the  firing pin exerts. In the case of the 1911, it may surprise you.  Anyway...

I took my Glock 20 ensuring that it was not loaded and  put an EMPTY once fired resized 40 S&W case with a fired primer reinstalled, into the chamber.  I dropped a pencil, eraser end first, down into  the barrel.  Holding the barrel up, I squeezed the trigger.  The pencil barely moved and did not jump upward noticeably.  This tells me that that case is held pretty tightly to the breech face wall by extractor tension (which it is confirmed by putting a dummy round in the breech face with the slide off) and it barely moves on impact.  Now an unfired primer will get a more solid hit, but I don't want to try this with a live primer as it would not tell me anything anyway.  Maybe fill the primer dent with glue or epoxy and that would be a more reliable indicator.

Thinking that the bullet inertia will no doubt somewhat resist forward movement of the cartridge by impact of the f.p., I tried a 40 S&W DUMMY round, resized with a 175 gr SWC bullet and again a reinserted, fired primer.  The pencil did not even move upward and I could barely feel the hit with my finger on the pencil end.  This seems to confirm my theory that the extractor tension combined with bullet & case inertia are sufficient to hold the case in place on firing with perhaps only a slight force against the extractor on striking.  It may be arguable that new, shorter than maximal length cases of 10mm will exhibit this same minimal force against the extractor on striking by the f.p.

Sounds like you're getting it back on track, good luck! 

I don't know if this will help you, but it can't hurt.  On the barrels I install or when I have any problem like this, I always like to have a well polished feed ramp and also polish the chamber especially under the  hood where the bullet is likely to strike during feeding.  Some new barrels come with machine  marks every where and those are really not helping things. You want the ramp and chamber contact areas smooth and shiny something like  this.  On 1911s, I would always polish the ramp and chamber contact areas to a mirror finish. 

Another thing, if the case mouth is not crimped at all, it could be hanging up more so than a good, factory or tapered crimp case would.  I resize and taper crimp all my rounds after bullet seating as a separate stage because tight chamber tolerances (unlike loose Glock chambers) are/can be finicky about case mouth dimension.  I often go so far as to plunk test every round to make damn sure they chamber properly.  That seems especially relevant with 10mm and after market barrels.   

Quote from: Kenk on March 11 2022 01:34:23 PM MST




I?ve been been having issues running 230gr Ranger T ammo, +P, as well as standard pressure loads in my G30S, and are hanging up on the case mouth right above the feed ramp. Also, this does not appear to be a magazine issue, as it has happened with 4 or 5 different magazines. In addition, I?ve pretty much ruled out limp wristing, as stove pipeing is often the result of that. From what I understand, it could be the extractor, but don?t know beyond that. When I run 230gr ball, the G30 runs flawlessly. Because I have a bunch of T?s on hand, I would really like to get this figure out. I will try some 230gr HST?s and  golden saber?s to see if it?s Ranger specific.?Thoughts?

Is this an ejection problem?  Is the case mouth catching/lodging against the barrel hood?