A few months ago Brownells had Federal large pistol primers for $82/1000. I found that insulting and bought ten boxes anyway?.

My Javelina had some AMT quality issues including an occlusion in the underside of the slide that needed to be welded and machined back. But it has proven to be exceptionally accurate, and mostly reliable (the factory magazines are junk and won?t hold the slide open after the last shot, and I occasionally get a failure to eject as the empty case gets trapped on the hood of the barrel).  The trigger pull was very stereotypically government issue, but a trigger job fixed that. The added mass really tames the 10mm recoil and the extra sight radius is conducive to accurate shooting.

With only 2000 ever made, they are quite rare, and now seem to be selling in the $2000-2500 range?.

That?s not a longslide. THIS is a longslide.

IAI (AMT) Javelina 10mm with 7-inch barrel:

I was very surprised and somewhat disappointed to learn my 7-inch IAI (AMT) Javelina 1911 was only about 75 fps faster than my 5-inch Colt Delta Elite. I was expecting a much greater difference.

In this day and age, you pretty much have to load the powder you can get. But there are far better choices for full-power 10mm loads than WW231/HP38 (which are the same powder in different containers, and BTW last week a Hodgkin spokesman told me they were going to discontinue the WW brand and only sell it as HP38).

In the past I used Blue Dot because it seemed to be the favored powder among 10mm shooters, and the loading manuals often showed best accuracy and highest velocity with BD. Lately I've switched to AA No. 7, although AA No. 9 might be a better choice for heavier bullets (i.e. 200+ grain).

WW231/HP38 is best suited for light target loads.

I bought my Delta Elite when they first came out in 1987 or 1988. At the time I bought a bunch of Midway-stamped brass (I later learned it was made for them by Starline). I have been using that same brass ever since.  I shoot full-power loads (10.0 to 10.4gr Blue Dot with 180-grain bullets) and just keep using the same brass over and over and over with no problems.

My IAI Javelina occasionally suffers a failure to eject resulting in the slide crunching the front of the case against the barrel hood. That wrecks the front of the case.  But as long as the guns successfully cycle, the brass seems to be immortal?  I recently got 500 rounds of Remington 180gr FMJ with nickel brass, so now I'm loading that too. Again, no problems.

I got a Dillon RL450 as a high school graduation present in 1984 and have since loaded a zillion rounds with it. I like the fact that everything is manual so I can feel everything—I was always somewhat distrustful of the various improvements that came with the later 550:models.

I purchased some aftermarket LED lighting on Amazon specifically made for RCBS presses—HIGHLY Recommended. It consists of a vertical row of LEDS that mount to the inside of the press and shine away from you (and onto your work) and a single LED that mounts in the center of the four dies and shines straight down. It makes it much easier to visually inspect powder levels.

For some calibers I use it as a single stage, almost. For rifle and bottleneck pistol such as 357 Auto Mag, I will put an RCBS lube die in the first station (which also decaps the case) and the sizer die with the decapping pin removed in the second station. Then I remove the case at the third station to trim and wash the lube off. On a later date, I prime at station 1, expand and powder drop at station 2 and bullet seat at station 3. If I'm crimping separately that's at station 4.

I have a very cheap Lee single stage press that I use exclusively for RCBS trim dies....

Check out the 10mm/40S&W manual by Loadbooks USA. They compile almost all published data from the different bullet and powder manufacturers into a single book, spiral bound and under $10. It makes it quick and easy to flip back and forth and compare data for a given bullet weight between different sources. Available on Amazon, EBay etc and well worth the trivial expense!

S&B brass in 45 ACP is garbage. I find it impossible to seat new primers, and no, the primer pockets don't appear to be staked. They are just slightly undersized for some reason and the new primer winds up standing proud.

I built this epic contraption to recover 357 Auto Mag brass, which takes ages to form.  It looks laughable and works great. I've since modified it by adding a sunshade feature. It does a great job recovering almost everything inshoot including 10mm.

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Quote from: CtYankee on December 21 2020 06:19:53 PM MST
I have a ProChrono DLX. I also ordered the light kit so I can use it indoors. It connects and records to my phone through Bluetooth then I can download the data to my computer easily.

I have the ProChrono Digital, predecessor to the DLX (now discontinued/superseded).

Love it. Works great and the price is right.

For low-power plinking, mixed brass is no big deal. But for a high pressure cartridge like 10mm, variations in internal capacity can make a big difference. It's always best to segregate your brass and work up to max loads conservatively, realizing that a max load with one brand of brass could easily be above max with another.

I load mixed-brass medium-power plinking 10mm loads, but for serious work I bought new Starline cases.

It's worth mentioning that my chronograph testing revealed only 50-75fps increase over a 5-inch barrel, depending on the ammo used, not nearly as much as I had hoped or expected. It is much easier to shoot however, thanks to the added weight out front, and longer sight radius.

FWIW the original 10mm Longslide 1911 is the IAI Javelina. I just got mine a few months ago and absolutely love it. It needed a bit of tuning, and the trigger pull is still relatively terrible (standard GI 1911 trigger feel) but it's accurate and the extra weight really tames 10mm recoil.

And with a 7-inch barrel and slide it is a REAL long slide, not like those wannabe 6-inch guns. 

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All, 

According to burn rate charts BE-86 is much faster-burning while AA#7 is right next to Blue Dot. Based on that, plus recent happy experience with AA#5 in 38 Special, I decided to give #7 the nod. It will be awhile before I get to the loading bench but I will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks!