Ok, I think I'll start at 8 grains.

Although I will double check this against book loads.

Thanks.

Hi, I am here from California to get reloading info because I refuse to provide ID or fingerprints to buy ammo.

And if I'm going to reload, I'll load self defense style ammo that makes cheap commercial ammo look ineffective.

I've been looking here and there and I thought I saw max loads in the 8.x grain region with a lot of sub 1,300 velocities.

With that in mind, the 8.7 grains sounds high and 8 grains to start sounds high too.

Maybe I was looking at bad or old data.  It will still make me a bit nervous to start at 8 grains.

Is 7.1 too low to start?  I don't want to find out I did something grossly wrong on the first shot.  I haven't reloaded for pistol in about 20 years and not much then.

If I can make myself feel safer for the cost of a few light loads, I would rather do that unless it's getting close to the too little powder point.

By the way, is there anything to worry about with too little powder?  I know in rifle there is but maybe it's because the cases are longer?

I like the velocity.

What do you suggest for a starting load?  Maybe 7.1 grains?

I'll have more questions after my brass shows up tomorrow.

I have installed an Overwatch Polymer DAT trigger in a Glock 22 with a Ghost Evo Elite connector and it seems like a nice combo.  The trigger shoe has a flat face that won't burn like some aluminum triggers can and the trigger bar comes polished, one less thing to do.  The connector has an over travel tab that you have to file to fit which is nice.  All together it's less than $100 for that combo.  The pull is light and smooth but a bit long.

I have a large frame version of the Polymer DAT for my 21 and I'll probably try a different connector with it but might go for another Evo Elite if a 5 lb connector doesn't shorten the pull.

By the way, the Polymer DAT that I installed has kept all of the safeties functional on my 22.

I have a slightly sillier thing, I chopped a 21 grip frame to 29/30 length and I have Glock 20 magazines with grip sleeves and Glock 29 magazines with +2 extensions.

It has a Lone Wolf "Tactical length" slide (about 5.2") but with a Storm Lake 6" conversion barrel.

So it should be the performance of a 40 but it will print more like a 20/29.

Also, is there any good reference for how much crimp I should use for a warm 10mm that might start 15 deep in the magazine?

Thanks.

I have a 6" Glock 21 conversion barrel from Storm Lake and I have bought some reloading supplies.

First off Lee Carbide 3 die set, a factory crimp die and a case trimmer.  I'll be using a single stage press with charges thrown by an auto-trickler.

I have 500 180 grain Hornady XTPs.

I have 600 pieces of new Starline brass.

I have a jug of Power Pistol.

My reason for owning a 10mm is to have the most powerful semi-auto handgun within reason.

Said another way, I don't want .40 short and weak loads but I don't want to kill brass before it's been loaded a few times.

The reason why I chose the 180 XTP is because some gelatin tests show good penetration with expansion and weight retention at high velocity.

I would appreciate any starting loads and recipes with velocity.  I haven't bought primers yet so I'm open to suggestions.

Ideally I would have a 180 grain bullet at 1,300 fps with 0.800+ expansion, deep penetration and near 100% weight retention.  If there is a better combo to get there, let me know.