Have a question for you 10mm Glock-o-philes:

I'm on my 3rd 10mm in the quest for dependable nuclear loads.  How much more fps are you getting from your after market 6(ish)-inch barrel over the OEM G40 barrel?

My single uneventful experience with a black boar made me read a lot of blog/forum discussions about bear and I've come to believe that a lot of suggestions that are discussed as generalities are actually very location and breed specific.  I think the challenges of an online bear defense discussion lie with differences in location and breed.  For instance, a 10 year veteran Park Ranger in NC may bet his last dollar that black bears will always run unless the human acts in a negligent manner because that's all he's witnessed and nothing other than bear spray is needed.  He's seen it 100 times.  On the other hand, an Alaskan native may think a side arm is useless because of his experiences.

I believe bear spray is great for hikers, but it won't be too effective when I'm sneaking into my VA deer stand at 4:30am (and I've got 2 weeks of pics of a sow and 2 yearlings rolling through at 3:45 on the trail camera).  Likewise, just based on the muzzle energy, a 200gr 10mm LCSWC moving at 1200fps will kill any bear up to 320lbs, but even a 0.4" hole going through the vitals of an attacking bear will take a little while to convince him he's dead.  Safe to bet he'll be gnawing and clawing until he keels over unless you get a CNS shot.

I don't know where the OP is planning on going or what he's planning on doing, so I'll say this:  In SE VA or Eastern NC, I'd hunt bear with a 10mm and use it for defense in places I know they're averaging 250-300lbs, but if there's a fabled blackie that's said to be 350lbs (or above) or I'm on the fringes of the Dismal Swamp, the Ruger Alaskan 454 will be on me. 

Just my 2 cents.

10mm Magnum anything.   

Hi y'all.  I'm Ray in Virginia.  Lurked for a while, but decided to register after diving into my second 10mm platform.  First was a Glock 29SF, but got spooked with the ability for it to fire out of battery.  Sold it and gave up 10mm until I got an RIA Ultra MS.  Struggling with a touch of buyer's remorse because I pass a GP100 Wiley Clapp 10mm (under glass) every time I hit the range.

I reload for 12 different calibers, but I find 10mm the most intriguing.  I think its my impression that it was designed to run hot loads, but the space beyond the 200gr @ 1200fps Norma load is pretty narrow.

Anyway, thanks for the board and appreciate the company of fellow 10mm enthusiasts!

Update:  The gunsmith said the frame was interfering with the disconnect.  The frame looked fine, but the disconnect was a few degrees off, causing it to fail to function.  Never heard of that one.  He replaced the disconnect with a Wilson.  We shall see.

Quote from: Bruno747 on September 22 2018 05:23:55 PM MDT
I had one of the commanders.

Just be patient, from the reviews I have read, my experience, and videos, the few of these that are running out of the box are unicorns, fully expect it to not run worth a crap to start. What you do from that point forward is up to you. It took me several iterations of things including sending mine back to get it running right.

I believe mine was the 51994 model. There are posts from me detailing everything I needed to do to get mine to run reliably and it was a decent amount of work. Utimately I let it go because I never could find a holster that fit it well and my dan wesson ran so much better with so much less work.

Also now that I no longer have it and am no longer enamored with it, I can honestly say it had bar none, the most ghastly barrel I have ever seen on a gun EVER. If it was used when I got it I would have thought someone sorely mistreated it from what that barrel looked like inside and would have passed.

I'm going through this now with my RIA MS 10mm.  I'm not trashing RIA.  In the past 6 months, I've had to send 1 S&W and 2 brand new Rugers back to the companies for QA issues.  It seems as if the current industry standard is having stuff returned is more lucrative than comprehensive Quality Assurance before it leaves the factory.  But I digress.....

Within 20 rounds, my RIA had a binding trigger, spent-round stove pipes, live-round stove pipes, 3-point jams and hammer follow (to half-cock).  To be honest, I was so disappointed with sending other guns back and waiting, I elected to give my RIA to a local 1911 guru.  According to him, the trigger bow was bent to lessen take up and the sear had a negative angle cut into it.  He corrected those issues and performed an action job. 

Having lurked here and read Bruno's fixes (among others), I then tuned/polished the extractor and breech face, chamfered and polished the hood/chamber, polished the ramp, installed a flat-bottomed firing pin  installed a 26lbs mainspring, and tried a 22lbs recoil spring.  It worked pretty well for about 30 rounds before it had a failure to return to full battery.  I replaced the 22lbs recoil spring with a 24lbs recoil spring, loaded up some more 200gr coated LCTFPs over 11.8gr of AA9 in virgin brass and went back to the range.

After 8 rounds, I dropped the empty mag and just happened to check for hammer follow and the hammer followed the slide all the way to the firing pin.  I then tore the gun down and noticed the disconnect wasn't moving and the trigger travel was shortened.  Apparently, I broke it, so I dropped it off to the guru this morning.  I have a feeling a Wilson or Ed Brown hammer, sear and disconnect are in my future.